Another SR startup thread

[DeathBy240SX]

Started up my engine today and it is running really rough. I had a video that I took with my digi cam but I cant find a host for it. Anyway there is a high pitched squeaking sound that doesnt seem to be coming from the belts. Also my digi cam picked up. It is ticking, seems to be the valves, but I didnt really hear it when it was running due to there being no exhaust on the car and the high pitched squeal.

There are no dents in the oil pan and the oil pressure light on my gauge cluster did turn off after we cranked it for a while with the cam angle sensor and fuel pump fuse pulled.

I seem to think oil starvation is the problem due to the valve tick, but I dont know what the squeaking noise is. I am going to take the vavle cover off tomorrow and see if I am getting oil up there.

Any other suggestions or ideas? Thanks in advance.

[180fan]

ticking could also be your injectors. It's also pretty normal. the roughness, do you have any better description other than just roughness? the squeaking, give us a better idea of about where it's coming from like intake area, or exhaust manifold, or intake manifold. where's it coming from in general.

[DeathBy240SX]

I will try tomorrow to get a better idea of where its coming from, its just really hard with no exhaust. By rough I went the engine was shaking side to side a lot. The ticking seemed to increase with the revs and it sounded much like my KA when it had an oil leak and it got really low on oil.

[DeathBy240SX]

Ok so I fixed the squeaky sound, it was the pulley that the fan was attached to and it wasnt bolted down good enough. I have no oil starvation either!

The only thing is its still shaking a decent amount from side to side. The spark plugs have been replaced and they are NGK. The mounts are in decent shape as well. Is the engine misfiring? I still havent ran it very much no more than a couple minutes at the most all together, as I dont know why it is shaking. The guy who did all the wiring for me said I shouldnt worry too much about it as it should start to run smoother if I run it for a while. There is no exhaust on the car as it needs to be welded on and I want to know if it will be safe to drive it to the muffler shop tomorrow, its only about 10 blocks. Any opinions would be muchly appreciated!

[S13240]

Did you remember to bolt the engine mounts down? What is it idling at? Rewire afm?

[180fan]

got a better description of the roughness? like is the speed of the motor changing, etc. possible solutions, clean out your MAFS, hose your throttle with carb cleaner, ditto with your iacv, check your timing. You're looking for 15 BTDC (second to last mark on the right if you're looking right at the crank pulley).

the ticking is probably from your injectors if it increases with engine speed.

if it's 10 blocks or so, it shouldn't be too bad give it a shot.

[DeathBy240SX]

The only thing it is doing at all is just shaking from side to side. No more ticking, other than the injectors, and i cleaned up pretty much everything bofere I installed it. The engine is bolted down, but I cant tell what it is idling at becuase my 180sx cluster is shot.

[DeathBy240SX]

Ok its not shaking very much anymore, if i rev it up a little bit it stops shaking completely.

So I took it for a test drive and it is very slow. It sounds like the turbo is spooling I can hear a whine, over the exhaust noise. (I only have a stock downpipe installed, nothing esle after that) I dont know if its a MAF problem or not, I am using the SOHC KA MAF. I got it to about 40km/h in first gear, but it was very slow. I am going to try this http://www.store.yahoo.com/pha....html

and see what happens. Also when I let off the gas the rpms dropped and it seemed to want to stall out.

[dj_lennon_franz]

check all yer vacuum lines...also...your turbo may need a rebuild...40kmh is normal for first gear...i think mine hits 45kmh then i throw down into 2nd...the exhaust wouldnt matter...running open exhaust from the O2 housing is a cheap way to get power (turbo breathes ALOT easier)...but deffinatly check ALL your vacuum lines (and intercooler piping)...do you know if the turbo is burning oil at all???

[DeathBy240SX]

How would I check to see if the turbo is burning oil?I removed these before I started it, which are for stock boost control right? I havent hooked up my manual boost controller yet so would that make a difference?And this?

[dj_lennon_franz]

that looks like something off a S14/S15 notchtop...there is no stock boost controller...yer wastegate actuator effects how much boost u run on the stock motor...if you do have a notch top you might wanna hook that peice of hardware back up...that may be causing yer problems

and if you were burning oil you would know...lots of white smoke that smells like burning oil (its a very distinct smell)

[DeathBy240SX]

The first pic is a wastegate valve control solenoid and the second is the EGR sensor, which I was told I didnt need. I dont smell and burning oil and there is no smoke. I am gonna tackle the timing tomorrow before work and see if thats is whats causing the problem, I talked to some other guys and the all belived it was timing. One question though, if the car was running in a car in Japan, why would the timing be way off when the engine gets here? I know the CAS hasn't ever been touched as there is still the tape on the 12mm bolts. Thanks for everyones input so far.

[lok]

Try letting it idle with the maf unplugged. As for the stuff you posted earlier non of that is necessary and is emission related, and the stock boost controller (not really but I forget the name same thing thought).

As for the timing like you said it was fine before, and it should be fine now. In the 3 swaps I have seen including my own the CAS sticker was brocken but the timing was fine.

Try the maf, and then try pulling codes from your ECU.

[DeathBy240SX]

I dont really know if it was fine before, as I never saw the engine run, but I am assuming it would be. I'll try pulling the MAF.

[S14Life]

Quick question.. None of these are needed?

[DukeBoy]

Quick question.. None of these are needed?

that picture is from a right hand drive s13. The circle on the left is the EGR valve and it cant be used on a left hand drive because the steering spindle hits the recirculating pipe that comes out of the down pipe and back to the egr valve on the side of the motor.(that is what you have circled on the left.) on the right is the egr solenoid valve. it can be used without the egr and just connected to the carbon canister. the wastegate valve control solenoid valve, the gold solenoid a few pictures up, has a Y connector that can be seen in the picture. one end goes to the intercooler pipe that runs from the intercooler to the throttle body. this vacuum line has a little piece of metal in it called an orifice that regulates the pressure. if you still have the original vacuum line, then you can feel the hard metal orifice under the line. there might be a white marking around the line. this line connects from the intercooler to the bottom end of the Y splitter. one of the branches of the Y connector go to the wastegate on the turbo. the other branch of the Y connector goes to the wastegate valve control solenoid valve(the bottom port on the gold valve) the higher port on the solenoid valve goes to the intake side of the turbo, between the turbo and the MAF. That vacuum line is actually supposed to branch of from there and go to the throttle body and the egr solenoid valve. This is a lot of information, and is confusing. I just finished installing my friends 96 sr20det and it was our first swap. we pretty much figured everything out. we also have the vacuum diagrams for the s13 and s14 if you need them. let me know if you need anymore help.

[S14Life]

Yeah that would be very helpful. I don't know what I was thinking when i curcled the EGR vale, heh, I already threw that in a box never to see daylight again and JB welded a metal plug ino the hole for it on the o2 housing. heh. But yeah, a vacuum diagram would rock. [email protected]

I'm finishing putting the SR into my car tomorrow~

[180fan]

you don't need those two components. Those are for the boost spike controller and something else. You don't need those, remove them and simplify your vac line setup. Also those are not found on s14/s15's. They're found on all SR setups.

[dj_lennon_franz]

you don't need those two components. Those are for the boost spike controller and something else. You don't need those, remove them and simplify your vac line setup. Also those are not found on s14/s15's. They're found on all SR setups.

my EGR setup was TOTALLY different on my redtop...im pretty sure those are the setup for the S14/S15 notchtops my friend

[180fan]

Nope, they're not for the EGR. One is a dial and the other is a solenoid. They're both boost related functions. I had them on my 180sx clip as well. They're nothing to worry about. Also in terms of egr function, I don't recall the system routing back to the intake manifold, not having a bpt...it looks more like the aiv system, with the valve on top of the reeds, that runs down to the turbo extension with a vac signal feeding the top valve. Also they're not just for the notchtops. I had them on my blacktop setup, and also my other buddy who's swap I did some work on also had them, and he's got a redtop.

[GTS4-R]

ticked could also be air in the hydralic lifters....it happened to me and that **** was ticking like a diesel engine....

[S14Life]

you don't need those two components. Those are for the boost spike controller and something else. You don't need those, remove them and simplify your vac line setup. Also those are not found on s14/s15's. They're found on all SR setups.

Hey can you take a picture of the simplified vac line setup for me? Vacuum lines and wiring always **** me up~

[180fan]

My vac line setup

there are 3 vac ports on your throttle. Starting from the top...(relative to you looking at the front of the car)left one is for your fpr and right for your bov. Bottom one is for your carbon canister. I removed that for a cleaner engine bay.

Back of intake collector is for your brake booster.

there's another hose that runs to the valve cover from the intake manifold.

Lastly, there's another vac line that runs from your wastegate acutator to your coldpipe.

[DukeBoy]

Nope, they're not for the EGR. One is a dial and the other is a solenoid. They're both boost related functions. I had them on my 180sx clip as well. They're nothing to worry about. Also in terms of egr function, I don't recall the system routing back to the intake manifold, not having a bpt...

What do you mean one of them is a dial? Are you talking about the green egr solenoid? That black cap is not a dial, it is a breather cap. you can pop it off and see that it is not a dial. when that solenoid is engaged, it reroutes the vacuum line from the egr. If someone would like to host a pic of the vacuum diagram, I will provide it to show you. I followed the diagram when installing my friends 96 blacktop and it started right up. no idling problems or misfiring.

[180fan]

#1. there is no egr on Japanese SR's. Look at a JDM engine and you won't find an EGR. Then when you say "but the s14 FSM says EGR" well then compare the two setups for the real egr that's found on Euro spec SR's and the SR you're looking at in real life (given you've actually got a JDM SR). You've mistaken it for an AIV. Don't believe me? Look at your KA. Compare the parts and their general locations and functions. When you say "oh my! it really is an AIV!" then you can look at all the other posts about removing AIV's and not have a log in your pants about removing the bugger. #2. it doesn't matter if you use those two components and actually you most likely than not do not have those parts wired up at the ecu if you're following HT's wiring diagrams. the use of dial is more of a descriptive than anything else. When you read the post, you knew exactly what I was referring to didn't you? Good. Looks like I got my point across. #3. The components shown above could have the vac lines hooked up but why? They're just extra pieces of junk that are most likely than not operating and are just extra pieces of vac lines that you've chosen to run because you're either 1. not sure of what you're doing with the swap, or 2. a masochist when it comes to trouble shooting. In either case good luck when you've got a vac leak. Try taking them out of your car if you don't believe me and you'll see that by the magical ether I fart out, that your car will still run and run magically the same! The hell you say? Yes, the hell I say.

edit: sorry if I'm coming off as a prick. But don't get me wrong. I'm just trying to get my point across and haven't been in such a great mood since my car's got a vac leak and it irks me to see people telling others to run extra vac lines when they don't need it.

[DeathBy240SX]

Back on the topic of my car, I set the timing as phase2 says to do and it seemed to start up a lot easier but it was still very slow. I also noticed black smoke coming from exhaust (coming up through engine bay as I still have no exhaust). Does that mean I am running too rich? Could that be the cause of my problems?

[180fan]

check your timing with a timing light. many have tried the timing stuff and haven't had much luck so you should still take a timing light to your car. the blackness, dunno what to say, did you check your plugs?

[RobDET]

Unplug your O2 sensor and see if it runs better...

Also did you take out the injecotrs? If you did and you didn't lube up the o rings before you put them in they are torn. It would be worth it to check them anyway. Make sure you get new ones before you take the injectors out and put a little oil (like 10w50 motor oil) on them when you install them so they slide in without tearing.

[RobDET]

Also one of those circled components is the AIV valve (the one by the valve cover) my KA had it and so did my SR.

AIV = emissions controll. Air injection valve helps the cat keep doing it's thing at idle.

[180fan]

Also one of those circled components is the AIV valve (the one by the valve cover) my KA had it and so did my SR.

AIV = emissions controll. Air injection valve helps the cat keep doing it's thing at idle.

yep I pointed this out earlier.