another rich KA

[wilfonzo]

my KAE is running rich listed below are the things i have done to prevent/stop this, the reason i think its running rich is first the bad gas mileage 2nd the black stain on the bumper right above my exaust.

new temp sensornew pcv valveoil breather, plugged hole on intakeseafoamedcleaned MAF with throttle body cleanerECU is not throwing any codesEGR has been removedAIV has been removedrunning 93 octanetiming 15btdcngk plugs

if you can think of any other things that i could do to help stop running so rich please help, i have been batteling this problem for quite some time now

[wilfonzo]

help

[Ligouri Rd]

The aiv is there to add air to the manfold to lean out the mixture at idle, removing that is probably what is making the mixture so rich. You are probably only running rich at idle so the rest of mixture should be fine. Unless you get your ecu reprogrammed to lean out the mixture at idle or put in a piggyback to do the same your gonna have to put the AIV back in.

[ddgsxr504]

Also a black stain on your bumper my signify that your burning oil, not necessarily meaning your running rich. I'm running rich too but I have no stains on my bumper, it will turn a yellowish color if I go a long time without washing her.

[TrueSlide]

I wish my KA was rich. Its broke

[AelSic]

I've got a black film on my bumper that is from a bad valve seal you may need to take a look to see if you are burning oil. I usually have to add a quart every 3 weeks.

[BHayes_S13Coupe]

speaking of running rich... I bought a new coolant temp sensor, but I think its the one for the gauge and not the ecu. The one I bought is a gold cylinder with a flat bent metal piece at the top. I need one for the ecu, anyone have a picture of what the coolant temp sensor for the ecu looks like?

[Bigvinnie]

The aiv is there to add air to the manfold to lean out the mixture at idle, removing that is probably what is making the mixture so rich. You are probably only running rich at idle so the rest of mixture should be fine. Unless you get your ecu reprogrammed to lean out the mixture at idle or put in a piggyback to do the same your gonna have to put the AIV back in.

Horrible misguided information. The AIV actually pulls air from the intake to direct air into the CATYLITIC converter to get it hot enough to operate under higher fuel dump loads. The AIV usually only does this during the first few minutes of start up. It has nothing to do with the fuel richness of the engine.Almost all the the Nissan programming for the KA ecu's run rich even when out of idle to prevent higher NOX levels caused from compressing O2 in the chamber (along with what ever else floats in the atmosphere)

Although if you meant by removing the AIV makes an incomplete vacuum withg the 2 vacuum lines found below the AIV (white, and Pink) than yes that is more than likely the problem. All those vacuum lines need to be connected

If infact the engine is running richer than usual these are the only parts that I know that would change the fuel cycle enough to have it run richer than it should.1.) TPS- throttle position sensor may not be alighned to the butterfly properlly.2.) O2 sensor will cause larger fuel dumping than usually if it is a bad sensor.3.)MAF sensor could be bad and throwing incorrect volt signals, that can throw the Air/fuel ratio off.4.) Check all your vacuum lines, you may not have correctly made a seal in all the vacuum lines (I'm talking about the AIV, and EGR that you disconnected buddy) .5.) Cam alignment if offset can have higher hydro carbons that go unvapoprized in the combustion process.6.) coolant temp sensorFor most of these problems the ecu normally doesn't throw codes, unless it is usually inoperative mechanical engine equipment. More than likely using a launch diagnostic you can fix this problem. Most mechanics that do smog and your basic oil changes should have this equipment....... It only takes 5 minutes to diagnose any of those problems that I mentioned....
Modified by Bigvinnie at 5:25 PM 1/24/2006

[naed240sx]

^agreed.

[wilfonzo]

im starting to think its a short in either the MAF or the coolant sensor, im gonna have to go by a multimeter and check those,because it not consitently running rich

i thought of the valve seal myself, but it doesnt seem like its burning any oil

does anyone know the voltages to check for each of those things, i also heard of splicing into the MAF wiring and wiring up a better ground

ive checked and rechecked all vaccuum lines, my pcv hose is a little cracked ill have to replace it

[Bigvinnie]

ive checked and rechecked all vaccuum lines, my pcv hose is a little cracked ill have to replace it

Well if you removed the EGR there are 2 lines missing to the BPT, and if you have disconnected the AIV there are 2 vacuum lines running along your wheel well.

[wilfonzo]

ok, the AIV is the small black box on the exaust side right? im getting confused here

[Bigvinnie]

ok, the AIV is the small black box on the exaust side right? im getting confused here

Correct. If you look at the pic in my sig, my AIV box is connected to the intake, and then the box runs a line off to the headr. It is located on the driver side wheel well. You should see two vacuum lines, with a marked rings one color is pink, and I believe the other is white. The FSM will indicate which vacuum line connects where to the AIV unit......

[wilfonzo]

i took it off so long ago, im sure that i plugged any vaccume lines... i do remeber taking off a few lines that ran across the fan shroud... but those are definatly capped

i think its more of a bad connection in the MAF or somewhere in the coolant temp sensor... but im not sure how to test them

[wilfonzo]

Horrible misguided information. The AIV actually pulls air from the intake to direct air into the CATYLITIC converter to get it hot enough to operate under higher fuel dump loads. The AIV usually only does this during the first few minutes of start up. It has nothing to do with the fuel richness of the engine.Almost all the the Nissan programming for the KA ecu's run rich even when out of idle to prevent higher NOX levels caused from compressing O2 in the chamber (along with what ever else floats in the atmosphere)

Although if you meant by removing the AIV makes an incomplete vacuum withg the 2 vacuum lines found below the AIV (white, and Pink) than yes that is more than likely the problem. All those vacuum lines need to be connected

If infact the engine is running richer than usual these are the only parts that I know that would change the fuel cycle enough to have it run richer than it should.1.) TPS- throttle position sensor may not be alighned to the butterfly properlly.2.) O2 sensor will cause larger fuel dumping than usually if it is a bad sensor.3.)MAF sensor could be bad and throwing incorrect volt signals, that can throw the Air/fuel ratio off.4.) Check all your vacuum lines, you may not have correctly made a seal in all the vacuum lines (I'm talking about the AIV, and EGR that you disconnected buddy) .5.) Cam alignment if offset can have higher hydro carbons that go unvapoprized in the combustion process.6.) coolant temp sensorFor most of these problems the ecu normally doesn't throw codes, unless it is usually inoperative mechanical engine equipment. More than likely using a launch diagnostic you can fix this problem. Most mechanics that do smog and your basic oil changes should have this equipment....... It only takes 5 minutes to diagnose any of those problems that I mentioned....

doesnt it have to be OBDII to do that

Modified by Bigvinnie at 5:25 PM 1/24/2006

doesnt it have to OBDII for them to diagnose the prob like that

[Bigvinnie]

Nope I use the launch diagnostic. The whole kit comes with harnesses for OBD1 and 2, it's the ultimate diagnostic tool. I've used it on alot of BMW's and Nissans with OBD1 and 2.Please correct my quote at the bottom, I didn't say that......

[Bigvinnie]

i took it off so long ago, im sure that i plugged any vaccume lines... i do remeber taking off a few lines that ran across the fan shroud... but those are definatly capped

I think your not understanding the problem... All smog devices must be connected in order for the ECU to properlly tune the engine. There are sensors, and vacuum inlets that tell the ecu what functions the engine is using. Capping off vacuum lines doesn't cut it......