Another no start

[entrapm3nt]

I just bought this Z32 its a 91. red 5 speed. Only paid 900 for it. has a little body damage tho. 90k miles. black leather. Anyways, The owner i bought it from didnt know anything about them. Thankfully his mechanic was there when i got the car. He said when he got it running it shut of on him when he took it around the block. Its got a brand new CAS, brand new PTU (not relocated) new ECU. (even tossed me the old one) and new fuel pump with gas lines. They said they put a new battery in it but the date says 6/11. The battery is dead at the moment. I jumped it off before i bought it and it did crank but no start. did seem to sound like it was spinning fast then slower. Im thinking its maybe the timing, they prob never got it replaced at 60k. He sure didnt replace it and never asked the owner before him. Could also be something simple. Im gonna check it out later today check some codes and fuses. I just bought it 30 mins ago lol. its really dirty and has a dent in the fender. all tires are flat ill post pictures soon. Either way i think i got a good deal. Could part it out if i had to. engine does not look aged but engine bay is dirty with spiders.

[ThisIsSparTTa]

Not going to be the timing belt, if it was gone your engine would have interfered with itself and you'd now have a major project on your hands. Wouldn't hurt to go ahead an do the 60k kit though, especially at the $900 steal you got this at.

Otherwise, your information isn't really descriptive at the moment, but it sounds like you're on the right path to get some basic troubleshooting in. Also there's a few FAQs to start you off: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/FAQ/z32faq.aspx

[entrapm3nt]

Not going to be the timing belt, if it was gone your engine would have interfered with itself and you'd now have a major project on your hands. Wouldn't hurt to go ahead an do the 60k kit though, especially at the $900 steal you got this at.

Otherwise, your information isn't really descriptive at the moment, but it sounds like you're on the right path to get some basic troubleshooting in. Also there's a few FAQs to start you off: http://www.twinturbo.net/nissan/300zx/FAQ/z32faq.aspx

Yeah, Just woke up. Gonna go test my old Z32 battery i have laying around. I think this one is shot. i may test both. Then im gonna check codes and fuses. I personally think its a coil pack issue or maybe a few plugged injector. It sounded like this car has been sitting for a very long time. 90k Miles could maybe prove that. Here is a few pictures.. I got the side where u dont see any body damage. fender is pretty bad. The frame rails are not bent but the alignment must be off cuz the steering wheel is tilted sideways. I wonder if that happened in the wreck? title is clean tho.





Glove box wont close, damn latch broke idk how to fix it. Also the drivers seat wont move up so i cant really drive it til fixed. It seems to be stuck on something but those rails are so low i cant see anything hate power seats

[Oh Em Zee]

Dimes are infamous for jamming the seat rails.
The car would start with a bad injector or coilpack.
The car would stumble and probably start with bad timing.
The car would usually not turn over if the timing belt snapped. if it did turn over, it'd sound like hell.
The glove box latch just needs to be adjusted in most cases. If it's not visually broken, try slamming that b**** shut to see if it will grab the latch.

[entrapm3nt]

Dimes are infamous for jamming the seat rails.
The car would start with a bad injector or coilpack.
The car would stumble and probably start with bad timing.
The car would usually not turn over if the timing belt snapped. if it did turn over, it'd sound like hell.
The glove box latch just needs to be adjusted in most cases. If it's not visually broken, try slamming that b**** shut to see if it will grab the latch.

Thanks for your replay. I know its got a new fuel pump I should prob test to see if its going to the injectors or not. I could hear it when i jump started it. Also should check for spark as well. But the guy i bought it from said it was not getting spark. Although he said he put a brand new battery in it when its not. its 6/11 and reading 0.3 Volts lmao.. maybe something draining battery as well. Its missing the CD player so maybe there is a short some where. or a relay drain

[Rager]

look at what i have circled . that what was broken on mine, Z owned helped me out on that. used a small zip tie and a super glue. works perfect since then.

[entrapm3nt]

look at what i have circled . that what was broken on mine, Z owned helped me out on that. used a small zip tie and a super glue. works perfect since then.

Where exactly do u put the zip tie? I guess i just super glue the spring in place? ill have to take it apart and figure it out

Small update: My battery is draining quickly. Could not even jump it up to 12volts. Im not sure if its just the battery or something draining it like a relay or something. Not only is my battery toast. The terminals and cables look like crap because last guy that put battery in chipped the damn cowl. so water is leaking on the battery gonna have to get new ones tomorrow.

[Rager]

you dont want to glue the spring. one of the little plastic pieces broke into a "C" shape. so hard part is not loosing/trying to find it when you open up the glove box. so i put a drop of super glue on it and the zip tie wrapped around the glued "C"/spring




blue line is the the ziptie

[z32loverboy]

Check all your ground wires and run a quick check over all the wires. You're leaking power somewhere as it sounds. Did the guy know how long it had sat without running?

[entrapm3nt]

Check all your ground wires and run a quick check over all the wires. You're leaking power somewhere as it sounds. Did the guy know how long it had sat without running?

good news and bad news lol....

Went to check ground wires and they did not even put the ground back on from the battery to the hole near the neg terminal on the frame. Think that could be the problem? Or did they ground it somewhere else? Not only that i noticed the damn cowl is chipped off. (prob from them pulling the battery somehow) And rain must have been getting in it over time. I saw corrosion and bought some new terminal clamps and a wire brush to help the wires. Since i can not replace the whole harness at the time. The battery is shot. Luckily i had a battery from a Z i bought late last year. I got it for free, tested it at autozone and its fully charged. However i think it is only 650 cold cranking amps and i thought Z32's were 750? I know higher cca dont really matter i just dont know the OEM spec. Good news is maybe the problem is pretty simple and i got a pretty legit Z for 900 bones. Or it could be just the start of my problems. Anyways heres some pictures. of the ground i was talking about with arrows. as for your other question the guy i bought it from let it sit for the year he owned it. never drove it. he said the guy he bought it from let it sit also. not sure how long. but 90k miles on body



heres a pic of my old Z's battery with new clamps fully charged but its raining outside

[z32loverboy]

That could be the problem, but if it's grounded somewhere else then i'd say your fine. Since it'll turn have your checked the timing? make SURE it's set correctly since this is an interference engine. 15* BTDC if i remember correctly.

Umm, OHM out your injectors with a multimeter and that'll tell you if any of them are burnt out but that wouldn't keep it from starting. Mine ran on 3 and a half injectors awhile back, just ran like dump. I think once you swap your battery it'll be fine though. mine had a problem like that recently and my parents swapped the battery and its working just fine now (I'm in Canada, my car's in Tennessee). I would also check the connections at the starter and also make sure there is the ground connected to one of the top bolts on the transmission.

[entrapm3nt]

That could be the problem, but if it's grounded somewhere else then i'd say your fine. Since it'll turn have your checked the timing? make SURE it's set correctly since this is an interference engine. 15* BTDC if i remember correctly.

Umm, OHM out your injectors with a multimeter and that'll tell you if any of them are burnt out but that wouldn't keep it from starting. Mine ran on 3 and a half injectors awhile back, just ran like dump. I think once you swap your battery it'll be fine though. mine had a problem like that recently and my parents swapped the battery and its working just fine now (I'm in Canada, my car's in Tennessee). I would also check the connections at the starter and also make sure there is the ground connected to one of the top bolts on the transmission.

But couldnt it have already maybe bent a valve is a the timing is already off? Ill check the white lines on the belt later. Hopefully it has them. The car does have a new CAS. That could also be the problem. Maybe he didnt know how to adjust the cas to 15. I really dont either, ive never used a timing light. The mechanic who worked on this car was not familiar with Z's. I can tell this because he also changed the PTU with a new one and adapter but its still in the same spot on the timing cover. Lol... Ill have to move that later. Also i forgot where the starter is on this car. Ill have to look it up. Is it safe to bolt down that ground near the battery if it already has another ground hidden?

[entrapm3nt]

i ohm checked my injectors and #3 is OL. Also checkced codes and got 21 ignition signal circuit. Its making a odd noise when the key is ON. ill have to make a video to show u. ill upload it soon. still no start

[z32loverboy]

If you'd bent valves you'd know it. When you tried to start it it'd sound awful. I'd be willing to bet that the ignition circuit code is the PTU, I'd go a head and change it if it was me. Sucks that it's giving you a little trouble, but when she runs right you'll really appreciate it.

[entrapm3nt]

If you'd bent valves you'd know it. When you tried to start it it'd sound awful. I'd be willing to bet that the ignition circuit code is the PTU, I'd go a head and change it if it was me. Sucks that it's giving you a little trouble, but when she runs right you'll really appreciate it.

already swapped the ECU. Actually i think i figured out what the problem is. Its the Fuel pump. The guy told me he changed it but i dont think he did. I do not hear it when i turn the key to "ON" but i thought i did before but it is just some very odd buzzing noise coming from the middle of the T-Tops. Any idea what that could be? Lol Would the fuel pump be the cause of the code 21?

[ThisIsSparTTa]

Buzzing noise in T-Tops is a little fan that spins to circulate air for one of the ambient air temp sensors. You can get at it by removing the little light panel up there. I'd double check your relays and fuses before replacing the fuel pump itself, especially the fusible link near the battery. You could also pull the connector and see if you're getting power when the key is on. Not sure if it would cause code 21, I would check the FSM.

[entrapm3nt]

Buzzing noise in T-Tops is a little fan that spins to circulate air for one of the ambient air temp sensors. You can get at it by removing the little light panel up there. I'd double check your relays and fuses before replacing the fuel pump itself, especially the fusible link near the battery. You could also pull the connector and see if you're getting power when the key is on. Not sure if it would cause code 21, I would check the FSM.

FSM says its the PTU. And i already got a new S2 type PTU. connections are good. i checked all fuses just not relays. the i looked at the fusible link they look ok but not sure how to test with a multimeter.