Another NC Newb With Questions

[1Dreamer]

Sups Ladies, Fellas

Firstly, to introduce myself, my name is Rome, I live in Phoenix (for future reference once everything's legit with my Z.)
Like everyone else here i'm sure, I work for a living lol I'm 22 with a dedicated gf and daughter, so not much $$ to blow but enough to get things the way I want with putting some back.

I am for the most part Ignorant when it comes to Cars but I know the basics. Figured i would get a Decent car that looks dope instead of another bike since they lead me into WAY too much tickets and trouble in the past couple of years, so if anything i'll have another bike but for track duties only helping that decision is phoenix traffic (if you've been here you know what i'm talking about).

Enough about myself already eh?

Well I a'm about to purchase a 1990 2+2 N/a Z32 5mt. Decent shape for the most part. Current owner "says" the motor has never given him issues. The only mods i know of is the Stillen exhaust...he says it has new spark plugs and a new O2 sensor, and this is what leads me to the main question to this thread...

He said the car "wont" pass Arizona Emissions. Now i'm sure that's not the case, i'm still waiting for him to let me know what was failed on the emissions tests so i can pinpoint which direction to go with it once it's legitimately mine at that point i want to do all the regular maintenance one would do when purchasing a used car, but i'm not 100% on what i should and shouldn't do before the emissions testing i will have to do...

So...

would it be smart to do the regular maintenance on the car and a day or 2 later take it for emissions?
would that help it pass the emissions testing?
I was planning to check through the ecu and make sure it's on it's stock settings or whatever (thinking that could be the reason it's failing emissions)
i'm sure it has the cat converters on the exhaust but i'll check once it's park outside.



what i have planned as far as maintenance:
oil (not sure what oil to use)/ coolant -flushing (engine Ice?)
not sure if i should replace the injectors because he says the car is running fine..i might just for the hell of it.
don't think i'll worry about the plugs....

Unfortunately this will be my DD and i so I won't be able to pull the plenum off and dig around until i get some Vacation time, and then i'll probably be travelling...
not like i'd know wtf i was doing anyway lol but i have some friends who have the know how so it's not really much of a big deal.


what i plan for the car once maintenance is done and emissions issues are figured out.
-bolt on motor addons, (keeping it N/a)
-ebauche (or however you spell it) springs until i can get a decent set of coils
-18 inch rims with an aggressive stance, depending on what the funds are like i'd be happy with Volk or Work wheels (not going for the hellaflush s*** but i'd like it to sit nicely)
-is there a removal for the "mustache" (as i've seen it called) on the front bumper?



Thanks in advanced!

[1Dreamer]

Got more details on what was failed on emissions.

HC:
Car: 2.6
State limit: 1.0

CO:
Car: 18.xx
State: 12.00

NoX:
Car: 6.45
State: 2.50

[Phan]

dude, if this car was your DD then I highly suggest getting another car. (period)

especially when you got a family and a child you should be more focus on a "more" economical car that doesn't tear a massive hole in your pocket. trust me when I tell you that these car is a sensitive money grubbing vehicle.

if you want a sporty ride get a s14 or a Sentra SE-R. lower maintenance, reliable, a lot of potential.

[1Dreamer]

I believe it, i'm not too worried about the expenses lol unless the car is just always going to be a problem, if that's what you'r saying, then it's not even worth it.
iv'e never liked the Sentra or the s14's body style to be honest..s13 coupe's maybe but either way i'd be spending about the same to get things where i want it to be. maintenance on the other hand for the most part i can do myself to the point where the motor has to be pulled then that's out of my capabilities.

If i was trying for something sporty i would have waited a bit more to find a decent TT that wasn't overbuilt. Thanks for the advice though, i was hoping more for pointers on getting the emissions straightened out...

Previous owner said he only changed the spark plugs and the O2 sensor so i'll probably replace the injectors, filters and get new cat converters.

I've also read that if you unplug the fuel dampener that it works like a charm with emissions..anyone have any experience with that?

EDIT: I'll also be running the car with seafoam and changing the oil as soon as i get the time to.

[t.mcginley.jr]

I believe it, i'm not too worried about the expenses lol unless the car is just always going to be a problem, if that's what you'r saying, then it's not even worth it.
iv'e never liked the Sentra or the s14's body style to be honest..s13 coupe's maybe but either way i'd be spending about the same to get things where i want it to be. maintenance on the other hand for the most part i can do myself to the point where the motor has to be pulled then that's out of my capabilities.

If i was trying for something sporty i would have waited a bit more to find a decent TT that wasn't overbuilt. Thanks for the advice though, i was hoping more for pointers on getting the emissions straightened out...

Previous owner said he only changed the <a class="vglnk" title="Link added by VigLink" target="_blank" rel="nofollow" href="http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=spark+ ... span>spark </span><span>plugs</span></a> and the O2 sensor so i'll probably replace the injectors, filters and get new cat converters.

I've also read that if you unplug the fuel dampener that it works like a charm with emissions..anyone have any experience with that?

EDIT: I'll also be running the car with seafoam and changing the oil as soon as i get the time to.

I've done the vacuum trick you're referring to. I failed NJ emissions the first 2 times for HC and CO, the first time was crazy high because of a pinched injector o-ring and bad coolant temp sensor. The 2nd time around I still failed but I was only slightly over for both HC and CO. Third time, I pulled the vacuum line between the balance tube and fuel dampener, stuck a longer piece on each, tucked it down where the coil pack is (so it doesn't look suspicious), and passed with flying colors. Just don't rev it above like 2.5-3k rpms with the vacuum line off

[1Dreamer]

That's exactly what I needed to hear. To clear it up a bit. Did u get the car up to operating temp with it plugged then remove the hose? Or did u remove it and drive around for a while to warm it up and then straight to inspection?

[t.mcginley.jr]

I drove it on the highway for about 10 minutes to get the cats hot (I have magnaflows on my midpipes) and then pulled the vacuum line off around the corner from the inspection station. The car was definitely at operating temp. They never actually popped my hood, but in case they do that's why you have to disguise it. The vacuum leak does make a slight hissing sound but it's barely audible over the engine/exhaust noise.

[1Dreamer]

Thanks a lot ill update this thread after the inspection for anyone in the future.

[t.mcginley.jr]

Here's my thread from when I was doing the same thing you are:

failed-inspection-t568468.html

[1Dreamer]

So I failed emissions again, worse than before, I'll post the numbers when I get home.

I had changed the oil/filter and cleaned the air filter (which was filthy)
I also ran the crc through my motor, which I think is what caused me to fail because it was still in the system when I went for emissions. So this weekend I'll be going back to do it again with new spark plugs..

Question for the plugged fuel dampened hose, if I remove the screw from that hose would that be the same as the fuel dampener trick for emissions? Or since it's plugged is it basically already at play and not helping?

[t.mcginley.jr]

I lost ya... remove what screw from which hose?

[1Dreamer]

This one. If my not mistaken this is the same one that whomever posted the trick used, idk if it works plugged or not..

Hope this clears it up

[1Dreamer]

Here are the numbers from my latest failure @ smog....
like i said before i'm sure its due to me jumping the gun and going to emissions before the crc was fully ran through...

just to reiterate, next thing i'll be doing is changing spark plugs, i have a friend picking up some for me from Concept Z here in phoenix. so i'll have them installed this weekend and go do testing...any other recommendations for me?

things i've done if you haven't read anything prior to now:
changed oil/filter
cleaned air filter (k&n cleaning kit)
crc guaranteed to pass treatment (it's all been run through now)

anyone have any recommendations for me please don't hesitate

[1Dreamer]

Just checked ECU for malfunction codes and got 55*s every time (no malfunctions)

if you guys need it i can post the video...
tried it 3 different times just to be sure...


SO....if i had the wrong sparkplugs installed (since i keep hearing how picky the z32's are with plugs, would it throw a code or would it just run off and f*** my emissions

[nissanfreak12]

Check out projectz32.com, they are local to phoenix. They are great bunch of guys. Zdreams and Alex are very knowledgable about these cars and usually help out for a case of beer or just company. They usually have tech days to help each other out. Like I said a really good bunch of guys.

Honestly with maricopa county emissions, you need to reconnect the hoses to the correct locaion, replace with good ones. Some are more than likely cracked and broken. A vac leak will cause a lot of issues(if this was covered before, sorry, didn't really read the post). Another issue could be timig is advanced, Cats could be bad, and just corroded connectors.

[nissanfreak12]

Nevermind, you already found them.

[1Dreamer]

Lol ^^

Yea I've gotten in touch with Alex and i should be getting the plugs installed tonight. I'll re look over the vac lines and such but I'm pretty sure they're good minus the plugged dampener or whatever it is I've also already checked the connectors for corrosion and they've all checked out... Maybe it's some little stupid thing that has been overlooked... I'm unplugging the fuel dampener come emission time to see if it helps (fuel dampener trick)..


If I fail it again I'll just find someone with a stock cat back exhaust that I can borrow to save myself the time and effort of buying a set..

(Free test this time so it won't hurt my feelings if I fail)

But If I fail again after that then hell....

[Phan]

Same thing happen to my Z. I had to pay an extra $1k in repairs and penalties just to drive the damn thing. That was only the beginning... But yeah good luck on your next smog.

[1Dreamer]

Thanks,

I'm starting to believe the only thing i really need is new catalytic converters...or possibly injectors but i'd doubt it..
but that's the only thing i can think for why my scores keep coming out so high, i'm weighing my options on buying new cats or taking it to get a factory diagnostic this Friday...more than likely due to my hesitation on choosing one or another i'll just do both.

[nissanfreak12]

Take it to Pitstop before taking it to the factory. Vitaly knows what he is doing with these cars. Personally, I would have Zdreams look at it, but Pitsop is a lot closer to you.

How is the timing on the car? What is it set at? HOw old are the o2 sensors? CTS? is there any green crap in the connectors?

[1Dreamer]

Not sure on timing Alex tried to check it but their is no mark on the belt to show. O2 sensors are practically new, bought in July I believe of this year not sure on cts but all connectors are nice and bright yellow.

The only corrosion was in the battery and that thing died when Alex and I were trying to find a timing mark on the belt, to no luck.

[nexus08]

Thanks,

I'm starting to believe the only thing i really need is new catalytic converters...or possibly injectors but i'd doubt it..
but that's the only thing i can think for why my scores keep coming out so high, i'm weighing my options on buying new cats or taking it to get a factory diagnostic this Friday...more than likely due to my hesitation on choosing one or another i'll just do both.

Since your HC and CO aren't too bad, I'd tend to think it might have more to do with the EGR. The EGR (exhasut gas recirculation) is intended to lower the combustion temp and thus decrease NOx emissions. Check to make sure the original owner didn't do a delete on them, or somehow mess it up.

As for cats, they are probably original too (if still there), and are likely not working as well as they could/should. I just bought new cat converters for my Z from RockAuto. Direct bolt on replacements. I installed them myself, but since the bolts were so rusted I had to break them off and drill them out. That was a pain in the rump. But if you have an Az car then maybe yours aren't so rusty. If that's the case then the install isn't too bad at all. You could also get generic cats but then you would have to find someone to weld them in. I found that the bolt ons are a tad cheaper if you can do the install yourself and they are OEM.

You can read more about it on my blog including a link to the exact item I bought .. http://300zx-z32.thatsmysite.com/replac ... z32-300zx/

[1Dreamer]

Egr is gone, and the cats are aftermarket, going to borrow some cats and install new tps and cts (throttle position sensor and coolant temp sensor) this weekend and go back through emissions. That should be all that I need. The car has an aftermarket idler pulley so there is no mark for the timing so I took it to pitstop performance here in Phoenix and they said its @ about 12 degrees (not sure how accurate that is but I'll run with it for now.

[nexus08]

Egr is gone

I can't tell you for sure this is the problem (as I don't know enough about the 300zx and what it can and can't do with out the EGR as far as ABSOLUTE NOx concentratrations.)

But this is the problem.

I'm an environmental engineer who specializes in air pollution control. The EGR is there to control NOx. With out it I don't think you will pass smog testing in a state that tests for NOx (which alot of states don't which is why people think it is ok to delete them cause some people can pass smog tests without them - if NOx isn't tested).

The low HC (or VOC depending on which state is doing the testing) and low CO you got before you did that "vacuum trick" (which I suspect is intended to mess with the EGR valve which is probably vacuum controlled) tells me the car is running pretty decent as far as near complete combustion. That would rule out O2 sensors, fuel injectors, and other aspects of fuel to air ratio.

High NOx and high VOC/CO would indicate a bad catalyst.

High NOx alone indicates that the EGR is probably not working right.

I've also had a bad temperature sensor on this car, and trust me, you would know if that was the problem as the car was nearly un-drivable. And even then, odds are it is just a bad connection and not a bad sensor. Again, since our VOC and CO aren't bad, you are getting good combustion, so I also don't think the crank sensor is going to help.

I don't think an EGR un-delete would be that hard (but I haven't done it)... unless they changed the "plumbing" at the same time they put in the generic cats. The pipes on the stock cats have a tube the runs to the EGR. If they got rid of that you would probably have to "borrow" some OEM style cats.

[1Dreamer]

Yea I'm not too concerned about the egr valve, after 20+ years I'm sure it would do more harm than good at this point so it's absence really only makes it harder for the cats. (From my understanding of the egr (exhaust gas recirculation)) Alex said the amps were off on the tps so that's the only reason I'm replacing it.

Everything's been pointing to the cats since I've been failing and doing research, I just hadn't wanted to dish out the money for the cats, hence why I am borrowing some until I can.

I'll update you guys here when I get the cats installed and through emissions

[nexus08]

Yea I'm not too concerned about the egr valve, after 20+ years I'm sure it would do more harm than good at this point so it's absence really only makes it harder for the cats.

Ok, well good luck then.

[t.mcginley.jr]

Better cats and a new CTS should definitely help you pass. And you shouldn't need an EGR valve to pass emissions, it might have helped marginally but it shouldn't make you fail.

And for reference, when you do the emissions vacuum trick, you aren't supposed to plug any of the the vacuum lines. You unplug a vacuum line and LEAVE IT OFF so that it creates a vacuum leak, essentially leaning out the A/F mixture so that you pass. Your emissions values will go wayyyy down because of this. That's why you aren't supposed to rev it above like 2.5-3k rpms while the vacuum line is off.

[1Dreamer]

Thing is about the vacuum trick, is that since the egr and a couple other useless modules on the car are removed, so I have a lot of plugged lines. I'll just buy some vac lines and try it anyway, it won't hurt?

[t.mcginley.jr]

It's fine to have plugged lines as long as they are fully plugged. You only need to introduce a vacuum leak on one of them. The reason you add an extra length of hose to one is to tuck it in somewhere so it doesn't LOOK like a vacuum line is unplugged. I took of the really short piece between the fuel dampener and balance tube, added a 8-10" piece to each side and tucked them both down where the coil pack is. That way it looks nice and proper, but its really a vacuum leak. I passed in NJ with flying colors lol

This isn't a permanent solution though, you should still fix the actual problem. Mine still runs a little rich.

[1Dreamer]

I took of the really short piece between the fuel dampener and balance tube, added a 8-10" piece to each side and tucked them both down where the coil pack is. That way it looks nice and proper, but its really a vacuum leak. .

That's exactly what I was going to do. Thanks, I'm going to go to emissions this Saturday and I'll update you guys shortly afterward.

And yea I just need this temp fix to get through afterwards I'll be patching everything that's necessary