Another G50 that refuses to start...

[viplife]

Gents,

I need your help diagnosing my g50 (1994).

I spent a good amount of time searching for similar symptoms/problems that others may have experienced. I am also proud to say that I have used various posts/articles from NICO to get through many of the things I've done in the past! I post because I know there are many knowledgable techs on this forum.

Here is the history of the last couple weeks...

I did a ton of maintenance on the car when I bought it. I got it running in tip-top shape. I have driven the car without a problem for one year, and simply love it.

A newer Q45 (1998) popped up in the paper at an irresistable deal. I bought it. I have been driving that car since the day I got it. I parked the g50 in the garage and didn't start it for three weeks.

I decided to take the car out for a weekend drive...

I pull the car out of the garage, and it's fine. I park it in the driveway, and start to wash it. Dry it off, and go back in the house. I come out a few hours later and start the car. The idle is a little rough. I didn't think anything of it, and started down the street. Something wasn't right... It felt like a bad injector.

CEL comes on. I return home and run the codes. I end up with injector and maf malfunction. I disconect the maf plug and clean the terminals. I juggle the injector harness slightly, hoping it's a bad connection.

Clear codes and run it again. maf is ok. Injector code remains. I fire up the car hoping the injector code goes away. But the car still idles rough.

I used a bottle of fuel injector cleaner, hoping its a gummed injector. Drive around for a couple miles, and no improvement. Bought a fuel filter, but never changed it out.

I ohm all the injectors from the harness plug. All are well except one that isn't responding. I pull the plug and check connectivity through the harness. It's fine. I ohm the injector directly, and get nothing.

I buy a rewly referbished injector from deatsch, ohm it, then replace the defective one. Luckily it was in the front, so I didn't need to pull the plenum, just the plastic covers. I only removed the middle one, and left the two on the sides (especially the cas).

I try to fire the car up. Battery is dead. Strange. I have no aftermarket stereo, or anything electronic added to the car, except HID.

I get the battery charger out, and charge for an hour. Not enough to get 50 amps at 10amp charge, but should be enough to start it. It cranks, but the starter sounds like the battery still doesn't have enough cranking amps to turn the motor. I just sounds like CLICK... but not electronic, mechanical.

I charge the battery for 5 hours. Same thing, a single mechanical click.

Something is not right. I was inside the car thinking... When I ran the first CEL check I unplugged the harness. I glance over at the ecu and think, maybe I turned the knob counter-clockwise and forgot to turn it back. But it was ok. I turn it, and turn it back.

CEL ERROR CODE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

What is it!?

11.

cas.

(no 0 or 9 degree signal, says the fsm)

wth?

Could it be because there isn't enough juice???

I get jumper cables and try to start it with the new Q. Same thing, a single mechanical click.

Something might be wrong... maybe more than the battery...

I know the g50 has the largest battery of maybe ALL infinitis out there, so I don't trust the battery that I bought only 1.5 years ago. I goto the store and buy a brand new battery. I drop it in, and Same thing, a single mechanical click.

Last night I went through and checked all the wires/connections/fuses. Everything seems to be sound.

I am stuck.

Any help, or suggestion is appreciated.

Single mechanical click...

and I noticed both (especially the negative) battery terminals get VERY HOT, and I only try starting it about 5 times (Turn key to ON, hear click, hold for a second, release).


Modified by viplife at 5:43 PM 10/13/2006

[96Qowner]

The true experts will chime in, but I'm wondering if you're hydrolocked. Any chance you pinched an o-ring when you installed the injector?

[Q45tech]

When you removed the defective injector how did you FIRST remove all the fuel pressure and fuel from the fuel rail?

More than enough to totally fill the cylinder with fuel and hydrolock the engine.....................common when inexperienced swap injectors.

Remove the spark plug from that cylinder and use shop compressed air to blow out gasoline before you try to crank again...............careful the starter with a good battery has enough torque to bend a connecting rod.

[viplife]

When you removed the defective injector how did you FIRST remove all the fuel pressure and fuel from the fuel rail?

More than enough to totally fill the cylinder with fuel and hydrolock the engine.....................common when inexperienced swap injectors.

Remove the spark plug from that cylinder and use shop compressed air to blow out gasoline before you try to crank again...............careful the starter with a good battery has enough torque to bend a connecting rod.

Thank you for the replies!

I removed the gas cap before removing the fouled injector.

I will try to remove the spark plug and see if its filled with fuel, and update the thread.

Thanks again!

[Rex]

If the battery was removed, make sure you've dis-armed the alarm/security. it won't necessarily sound the alarm since the key is in the ignition, but can make it seem like the battery is still dead.

Learned it the hard way myself.

[viplife]

If the battery was removed, make sure you've dis-armed the alarm/security. it won't necessarily sound the alarm since the key is in the ignition, but can make it seem like the battery is still dead.

Learned it the hard way myself.

HOLY!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I think that might be it!!!!!

How do I dis-arm the alarm/security system? Do I just connect the battery, then unlock one of the doors with the key? Or is there actually some funky combination of ign key turns and door opening/closing that needs to be done?

Note: I do not have a key fob remote, only the security key. However the vehicle >is< equipped with the factory alarm system.

Thank you for the response!

[Rex]

Without the FOB, I do not know how you'd dis-arm it.

Let me see if we can find that.

Here's the best I could find.

zerothread?id=172774

Seems you need to use the key to unlock either the drivers or passenger door to defeat the alarm. The sensor in either door could have gone bad, thus try them both.

[WidebodyZ]

This ghost in the machine is killing us...I'm ready to do some voodoo!