Another Fatal KAT ROD KNOCK

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DammitBobby
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Installed Stage II JWT ECU, Deatchwerk 740cc and Z32 MAF. Last week I installed Zeitronix wideband and SAFCII. This morning I hook up the laptop to record some driving and couple of boost runs. I crank the boost from 10 to 11. After I was finished I notice something like a exhaust leak. So I get home and she wont idle and it really sounds bad. I do a compression check 140 140 110 100

A friend of mine comes over and confirms my thoughts ROD KNOCK! So I hope to have it removed tomorrow and tear it down next weekend. If anybody is interested I have the data file saved. From the looking at the file it appears the AFR looks good.

The bad news is I will have to park my Toyota Corolla S at NOPI in the nissan area:(


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fiznat
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What makes you think its rod knock? Low compression numbers could be lots of other things: blown rings/lands, headgasket, valve leaking, etc etc... Is the engine making a tapping noise?

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Craving4Boost
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what were your most recent compression test before your "failure"? because all of your compression looks sh*tty

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DammitBobby
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It has a heavy knock noise is why we think it is a rod knocking. My compression readings before today were 160 across all cylinders. I think the ring lands are gone as well. I am taking a break right now. Tomorrow I hope to be ready to pull the motor. Just need to get in touch with my neigbhor and get his engine hoist. I hope he is not out of town.

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sunnys14
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Nooo! turns out 10psi was too much for stock block for extended period of time? good luck on the rebuild man

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DammitBobby
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Actually I think I would have been fine on 10psi but I cranked the boost up to 11psi. Remember I upgraded to StageII so I was pushing more power then the stock MAF would have.

Structure240sx
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were able to confirm the jwt timing? any kind of scan tool?

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DammitBobby
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No did not log timing just AFR with the Zeitronix software. Can you monitor timing with a OBDI?

nissanfanatic
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No, 10psi is still safe for a stock engine for extended periods.

11psi prolly made no difference.

Timing was the first thing that came to mind for me as well. Yes you can log timing on an OBDI. Use a Techtom, Apexi Multichecher or other typical scan tool.

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DammitBobby
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Unless it is a JWT screw up I would think the timing should be ok. If anything it might be a little on the safe side. My base timing was set at 20 degrees.

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WDRacing
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Friggin bummer Robby....thats all I can say man. Fiz you and I are all doing rebuilds...lol.

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DammitBobby
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Actually the big bummer is being at NOPI in a Corolla S! SLOOOOWWW! I have 2 friends riding with me so I guess we will be just watching rather then participating.

On the rebuild 1100 bucks for rods and pistons?? That is Freakin expensive!! We need to find a sponsor who will sell at NICO discount prices.

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sunnys14
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rseabrooke wrote:On the rebuild 1100 bucks for rods and pistons?? That is Freakin expensive!! We need to find a sponsor who will sell at NICO discount prices.
i agree!

duncan351
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Rseabrooke, there are usually only one thing that breaks ringlands on KA's.Detonation. The noise you're hearing could very possibly be a part of the ringland that's broken off. Rod know would affect your compression numbers like that. You said you set your timing to 20degrees but I asks how do you do that? Did you hook the timing light to cyldr 1 and set the timing on the last mark on the right and then consider the timing set?

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DammitBobby
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Set timing by disconnecting TPS car warmed up and set timing on last mark on the right.

duncan351
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My understanding of setting base timing is:With engine warm disconnect TPS Race engine 2-3 timesThen let idle and make sure idle is at 750 rpmsthen set timing.

TheOne
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on the last mark of the crank? cause if it was that, i believe its the 2nd from left to right(if looking from top of motor), this is on the DOHC engine.

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DammitBobby
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