Another 'can't start' kind of thread...

[Chezedik]

Alright, here is the deal. I have been trying to get this motor started and have gotten to this point. I have spark and am almost certain I have dizzy timing right (although it wouldn't matter, read on). Fuel is running through the rail and the injectors are pulsing. With all of the cranking the oil smells like fuel, so it is probably getting that. Here is what is really disturbing, compression test results were as follows:

1 - 1512 - 1503 - 1504 - 210

These results were gotten on a cold, never ran rebuilt engine. The head was milled .009'' and the cyl walls were deglazed but not honed. These are chrome-moly rings.

The motor is a rebuild, and I know it needs a new intake cam gear, but surely that cannot explain the result for number four, can it? Anyway, it sputters a little and backfires on starting fluid. I get a little smoke in the timing cover, but that is just blowby I would assume. Any Q's just ask, please help!

[dontbugme]

I have spark and am almost certain I have dizzy timing right (although it wouldn't matter, read on).

Can't guess at this. It has to be perfect or at least +/- 30* either side of TDC to even attempt to run. If you have spark ,fuel, and compression, your timings off.

Compresson readings on a new built, never run engine won't tell you much, depends on the assembly lube they used (which should just be a light oil or graphite, not grease - though grease would certainly give you high compression readings). Maybe the un burnt fuel has washed away all the lubricant in the first three cylinders and no. 4 will go next. Or, No. 4 cylinder isn't spraying. Still wouldn't keep the engine from firing.

I'd double check the timing, as it does matter, pull the plugs and clean them with something like CRC Electro Clean, pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it over w/o the plugs to make sure your oil pressure light goes out or you have pressure if using a gage and to blow the flooded mixture out of the cylinders. ( EFI engines will rapidly flood if they don't immediately fire.)

Install plugs and fuel pump fuse and crank again, this time using 5 second burst on the starter. If it doesn't catch right away but sounds like it wants to after a couple of tries give it 1/2 to 2/3 throttle while cranking and immediately back off if it fires. Next time you go to light it off you won't have a problem as all the fuel lines and FPR will achieved their normal operating state.

Good Luck

[Chezedik]

Here is my prob: typically when setting a distributor, you set it by crank pulley, advanced over TDC. But the compression numbers still scare me. I called a local shop and they think cam timing (but it costs about 1.5K to have a shop do it, which I can do). I have already cleaned the plugs with parts cleaner, but I will certainly try your suggestion when I get my new cam gear. I had to rig mine up when trying to cure the overlap problem of the dual 248's.

[PapaSmurf2k3]

i just had this valve timing issue. just make sure that at TDC on cyl #1 on compression stroke, the lobes (on cyl 1) are facing away from each other and away from the center of the motor. Also, at this point, if you pull your dizzy cap off, the rotor should be facing with the lead to the left (9 o-clock)zer...age=1hope that helps!

[Chezedik]

Smurf, Did it cause the weird compression results?

[Chezedik]

Here is an update:Last night I reset the timing to stock, turns out I was a little off. I don't think I banged up any valves though since I always rolled the engine over by hand before making an attempt to start it, and no valve clearance issues. The compression test results are looking a little lower, but more consistant. The new results are:

1 - 1052 - 1353 - 1224 - 145

I know that is out of spec, but a few drops of oil gives me:

1 - 2202 - 2103 - 2104 - 225

If not for number four, it would meet spec for total deviation. Now here are the new questions:

1. Does this indicate anything to anyone? (the engine has never been ran, and the test was done cold, so I know ring clearance is obvious, but anything else?)

2. Am I putting too much stock in these numbers for an engine that has never ran, and the test done cold?

Any new input would be great, and thank you all for the help so far.