another 94q back on road.

[bigog50]

She sat for over a year.Replaced injectors,fuel pump,water pump,hoses,knock sensors,2 oil changes,temp sensor,exaust piping(4 holes),brakes, t-stat, maf resolder.Car runs better than when I brought it from dealer however,getting slight shudder during takeoff and around 50mph that quickly goes away...no transmission cooler.Also 2nd gear change is a lill firm,the rest are soft..............The only thing I see that aren't working are,a/c,blower only on high,rear door still not working,sunroof seems to stick on wind deflector opening and closing,gas smell from tank area even after multi reseals.Also it seems my account has been close,cant log in under [email protected] .Never really opened her up,let alone red line,think 100mph on a semi heavy foot.Ride is firm but tight no squeaks.Went to register her at dmv and her book value was quoted at $800(wow).

[Q451990]

Regarding your old account, you have mail...

The blower motor fix is here:

how-to-fix-your-fan-control-amplifier-t433421.html... you can either order a new fan control amp, or repair the one you have if you're handy with a soldering iron.

Good luck!

Heath

[black g50]

Thanks for the reset Heath.Has anyone out there experienced rust near the strut towers? I have a nickel sized rust hole near driver front tower,as well as on bottom of both rear door trim.Dont see any thing plugged in doors............There was a post a while back,about someones car dancing sideways going down the road(sache)think that was the word.I also am experiencing that goint over dips in highway.Anything ever become of that?

[2brokey]

Congrats on it being back on the road! I just picked up a Black '94 Q myself, to replace my '91. Thinking of making a hybrid of the 2 models so I have my desired mix of luxury and performance. The rust-holes are a standard Nissan disease in areas with snow and salt, etc. - especially if you are missing the inner-fender guards. As for cars dancing over dips (oye!) - ensure the struts are not leaking, and check the rear subframe and control arm bushings. Some of them are more than likely dead. Your best options are OEM replacement, using a polyurethane bushing kit for an S13, Y32/Y33, or Z32 (not everything will work but a surprising amount will), [or best, if you somehow find a G50 kit, go for it], or try a Z32 rear adjustable camber arm kit. (Still have to address the subframe if it has bad bushings!). I'll be joining this adventure soon.

[black g50]

Regarding your old account, you have mail...

The blower motor fix is here:

how-to-fix-your-fan-control-amplifier-t433421.html... you can either order a new fan control amp, or repair the one you have if you're handy with a soldering iron.

Good luck!

Heath

Link is dead.