Sorry guys, I need input on this.
I got the coolant issue resolved, For now. Thanks.
So my turbo hasnt pushed past say 4.5 PSI, since I've had the car. It pulls prety tho, I kept with a WRX a few nights ago in 2nd. Im reading my Boost of the SDS Manifold presure gauge, I've been told thier not too accurate but Im not sure, thats what im going off.
Also with the window down the turbo seems to make alot of noise, say, comparable to a desiel turbo enigne. Almost like its leaking and spooling to hard, at that point it makes some hideous noises too, like its spinning to fast. Im not a turbo expert so I need suggestions.
Two of my friends had boost problems also, It turned out to be the gasket between the turbo and the header or manifold on the block, I took it apart tonight with a replacement but the gasket is fine, so thats not it. All other gaskets are solid. The only other thing it might be in my mind is the wastegate, its the stock one, so it could be bad.
What does a bad wastegate act like? The BOV sounds prety loud and crisp when I let off. Greddy Type-S. (very sexy)
The turbo has minimal shaft play side to side. Minimal. And the fans are in great shape with no nicks or anything. Also there is a pin whole on the bottom half of the wastegate, It looks like its supposed to be there but again im not sure. I can see the shaft thru it, again its on the bottom half, it should'nt effect anything right?
I think thats all. Ideas Please. Thank You.
Also, what is an easy way to presureise the system to check for leaks.
Thanks!
Anotehr Boost Issue
-
DriftBandit
- Posts: 157
- Joined: Sun Oct 19, 2003 7:54 pm
- Car: this is my 3rd 240sx
Re: Anotehr Boost Issue (240Kuminachu)
I had a bad wastegate on my motor, and all it did was not hold boost. How much PSI are you going for, is it just stock. As far as turbo noises It could be a few things, When you say mininal shaft play, where you able to see it move, Does it spit oil.? Does the turbine spin easily.
As for boost leak you might want to look into the HKS wastegate actuator upgrade. Its pretty cheap and easilly installed. Might take care of your boost problem, It cleared mine up?It could also be your vaccum lines, where is the vaccum line connected from the wastegate, It should be connected to your IC piping.
Just some helpful thoughts...Hope they help.
-Jon
As for boost leak you might want to look into the HKS wastegate actuator upgrade. Its pretty cheap and easilly installed. Might take care of your boost problem, It cleared mine up?It could also be your vaccum lines, where is the vaccum line connected from the wastegate, It should be connected to your IC piping.
Just some helpful thoughts...Hope they help.
-Jon
I'll bet you have a boost leak.. To check it do the following.
Go to home depot and get a 2" PVC end cap, and a 2" to 2" rubber coupler. Now if you have a compressor get a threaded male fitting (like the one on the bottom of all your air tools), or otherwise get a bike tire valve fitting. Also get smoe JB weld. Go home and drill a hole in the center of the 2" PVC cap and until you can get the air hose connector (or bike valve stem) through it, and then JB weld it in to make sure there are no leaks.
Finally use the 2" coupler and clamp one side around the 2" PVC end cap and one side around the inlet of the turbo. Your pressure checker is made for like $10.
To pressure check it:Turn the car off and hook up your pressure checker to the turbo.If you have your own compressor hook it up to the fitting and turn the pressure down to like 15 psi or so and start listening/feeling for leaks (they are pretty easy to hear).
If you DON'T have a compressor, and used the bike valve stem:Bring a friend, some basic tools with you and drive to one of those tire filler things at the gas station. (Do it later in the day when noone is there so people dont get mad at you for using it a while). Hook up your checker to the inlet of the turbo. Hook up the tire filler to your checker and have your friend check for leaks while you hold it on the valve stem. Also have your friend check the boost gauge in the car to make sure it doesn't get too high.
If you have a few boost leaks you will know! You literally will get like 0-5 psi into the manifold and boost gauge, when your compressor is trying to get liek 15-20 psi in there and you will HEAR leaking easily.
Fix all of your leaks and your car will be TON, TON faster... Trust me, been that way on all of my turbo cars, and especially true on my RB.
MurrayBTW if you need pics of the pressure checker I made let me know and I can show you it so you can get an idea.
Go to home depot and get a 2" PVC end cap, and a 2" to 2" rubber coupler. Now if you have a compressor get a threaded male fitting (like the one on the bottom of all your air tools), or otherwise get a bike tire valve fitting. Also get smoe JB weld. Go home and drill a hole in the center of the 2" PVC cap and until you can get the air hose connector (or bike valve stem) through it, and then JB weld it in to make sure there are no leaks.
Finally use the 2" coupler and clamp one side around the 2" PVC end cap and one side around the inlet of the turbo. Your pressure checker is made for like $10.
To pressure check it:Turn the car off and hook up your pressure checker to the turbo.If you have your own compressor hook it up to the fitting and turn the pressure down to like 15 psi or so and start listening/feeling for leaks (they are pretty easy to hear).
If you DON'T have a compressor, and used the bike valve stem:Bring a friend, some basic tools with you and drive to one of those tire filler things at the gas station. (Do it later in the day when noone is there so people dont get mad at you for using it a while). Hook up your checker to the inlet of the turbo. Hook up the tire filler to your checker and have your friend check for leaks while you hold it on the valve stem. Also have your friend check the boost gauge in the car to make sure it doesn't get too high.
If you have a few boost leaks you will know! You literally will get like 0-5 psi into the manifold and boost gauge, when your compressor is trying to get liek 15-20 psi in there and you will HEAR leaking easily.
Fix all of your leaks and your car will be TON, TON faster... Trust me, been that way on all of my turbo cars, and especially true on my RB.
MurrayBTW if you need pics of the pressure checker I made let me know and I can show you it so you can get an idea.
I'll bet you have a boost leak.. To check it do the following.
Go to home depot and get a 2" PVC end cap, and a 2" to 2" rubber coupler. Now if you have a compressor get a threaded male fitting (like the one on the bottom of all your air tools), or otherwise get a bike tire valve fitting. Also get smoe JB weld. Go home and drill a hole in the center of the 2" PVC cap and until you can get the air hose connector (or bike valve stem) through it, and then JB weld it in to make sure there are no leaks.
Finally use the 2" coupler and clamp one side around the 2" PVC end cap and one side around the inlet of the turbo. Your pressure checker is made for like $10.
To pressure check it:Turn the car off and hook up your tool to the turbo.If you have your own compressor hook it up to the fitting and turn the pressure down to like 15 psi or so and start listening/feeling for leaks (they are pretty easy to hear).
If you DON'T have a compressor, and used the bike valve stem:Bring a friend, some basic tools with you and drive to one of those tire filler things at the gas station. (Do it later in the day when noone is there so people dont get mad at you for using it a while). Hook up your checker to the inlet of the turbo. Hook up the tire filler to your tool and have your friend check for leaks while you hold it on the tool. Also have your friend check the boost gauge in the car to make sure it doesn't get too high.
If you have a few boost leaks you will know! You literally will get like 0-5 psi into the manifold and boost gauge, when your compressor is trying to get liek 15-20 in there and you will HEAR leaking easily.
Fix all of your leaks and your car will be TON, TON faster... Trust me, been that way on all of my turbo cars, and especially true on my RB.
MurrayBTW if you need pics of the pressure checker I made let me know and I can show you it so you can get an idea.
Go to home depot and get a 2" PVC end cap, and a 2" to 2" rubber coupler. Now if you have a compressor get a threaded male fitting (like the one on the bottom of all your air tools), or otherwise get a bike tire valve fitting. Also get smoe JB weld. Go home and drill a hole in the center of the 2" PVC cap and until you can get the air hose connector (or bike valve stem) through it, and then JB weld it in to make sure there are no leaks.
Finally use the 2" coupler and clamp one side around the 2" PVC end cap and one side around the inlet of the turbo. Your pressure checker is made for like $10.
To pressure check it:Turn the car off and hook up your tool to the turbo.If you have your own compressor hook it up to the fitting and turn the pressure down to like 15 psi or so and start listening/feeling for leaks (they are pretty easy to hear).
If you DON'T have a compressor, and used the bike valve stem:Bring a friend, some basic tools with you and drive to one of those tire filler things at the gas station. (Do it later in the day when noone is there so people dont get mad at you for using it a while). Hook up your checker to the inlet of the turbo. Hook up the tire filler to your tool and have your friend check for leaks while you hold it on the tool. Also have your friend check the boost gauge in the car to make sure it doesn't get too high.
If you have a few boost leaks you will know! You literally will get like 0-5 psi into the manifold and boost gauge, when your compressor is trying to get liek 15-20 in there and you will HEAR leaking easily.
Fix all of your leaks and your car will be TON, TON faster... Trust me, been that way on all of my turbo cars, and especially true on my RB.
MurrayBTW if you need pics of the pressure checker I made let me know and I can show you it so you can get an idea.