MaineExport wrote:Wow... never knew that.... sorry. But there still has to be a contact point between the sparkplug and the individual ignition coils. And those ignition coils have to get juice as well.
By the way... what's with the gas smell? Are the lines just inherently leaky, or is there some other issue with Z's?
Ok....you still get the dunce cap but I'll let it pass Z's are complicated and intimidating at first until you get beneath the surface.
As for the ignition system....here's a picture showing how its laid out with the individual coilpacks and the connectors that run to each off of the main wiring harness. Chances are all she needs to do is clean the connectors and snap them back on, very rarely do the coilpacks go bad.
Make sense??
Ok now on to the fuel system.....there's rubber fuel lines everywhere on the Z32's and its a common issue to get the fuel smell. Thank go I went braided and rerouted everything so I have no problems now. Anyways, here's a write up on what causes it and how to remedy it....
If the smell of fuel comes from the air vents it's probably originating from the fuel damper, fuel pressure regulator or loose interconnecting hoses. Other parts could be at fault such as the fuel filter connections or fuel injectors.
Fuel smells will usually start during colder weather, since the parts contract even more in the cold air during a thermal cycle. Hose clamps often work loose. When a fuel smell is noticed inside the car, examine it ASAP, there is an EXTREME DANGER of a car fire starting. This is no way to loose a perfectly good car.
Parts needed to replace everything if not just tightening the clamps...1. Fuel regulator assembly (part 2267010Y00, approx. $50) 2. Fuel damper assembly (part 2267510Y00, approx. $50) 3. High pressure fuel hose 15-18 inches (part 8959080, approx. $15) 4. Protected fuel hose (part 1644030P11, approx. $40)
The fuel pressure regulator keeps the pressure in the fuel system (including the fuel tank) at 43.4psi., so the cylinders can get enough fuel when throttle is applied. It takes some of the pressure built up in the manifold to increase the fuel pressure.
The fuel damper fits between the fuel filter and injectors. It reduces the pulsation caused by the fuel pump, which is back in the fuel tank.
Procedure....1. Check the fuel hose clamps making sure they are tight. 2. Look for visual signs of discoloration around the fuel damper and regulator on the hoses. 3. Try putting just a little talcum powder around the hose where it connects to the devices. Check after starting from cold and warming the car up to see if it looks damp. If so, that's the faulty part. 4. If a part is found or suspected to be faulty, replace the connecting hoses as well. 5. The 'protected' fuel hose exiting the fuel damper (to the right) is a special part, it doesn't come from a roll of hose.
On a side note...1. Always use Nissan high-pressure fuel hose, anything else could be very dangerous. 2. Always relieve the fuel pressure when working with these parts.3. Always expect some fuel to spurt out when you disconnect a part, even after relieving fuel pressure.
Whew that was long. Anyways that's how to go about replacing everything on a STOCK fuel setup. When I get home later I'll dig up some pics of the setup before I went crazy custom and put up a few snap shots if you like.
Either way, hopefully this will help fix her car and at the same time educated some of you on the little bits of the Z32