an idea...reversing the coolant flow

[liquid_cool]

Was pondering an idea while i was seam welding the project yesterday...for those who dont know me yet..i live in Las Vegas where the summer heat is 120F at midnight..heat is allways an issue here in vegas with our modifyed rides...when i was breakin for a couple beers from my weding project i was pealing back some pages in a jegs catalouge when i came across a inline water pump for $300. bucks...did some reading and it can be used as a stand alone type pump ...so my verry small brain went to work and gears started moovin!....

the flow direction of the KA24DE is from the bottom to top...throu the block..THEN throu the head and out throu the inlet in the intake manifold..where its scoulding hot...so much for a dense cold air charge!...but with a reversed flow..most of the heat would be dissapated throu the radiator before it got to the intake and head..giving a colder air charge (denser air to fuel mix)...im thinking ..bypassing the water pump with a block off plate..man that would look clean!..polished...and installing the inline pump on the lower hose pushing coolant up the radiator...would allso need to flip the thermostat too...

the pro's that i can see to this..
denser air fuel mix
no drag on the crank from a water pump belt

the con's
electric water pump...could fail someday...but so do regular ones.
longer warm up times in winter are possible.

welp...im open to idea's or just your thoughts on this..feel free to post pro's and cons or just your opinions..

[poshatch]

im not a wiz but i think the coolant enters threw the intake at the top and goes threw the head and down the block to the bottom then back into the radiator and back up again?

thats what i was lead to believe, i recall having this conversation with a bunch of buddies of mine and how the bottom up concept was such a stupid one since gravity pull things down anyway

but yea

[Roger_cha]

i have to agree with poshatch and when you look at the water pump it looks like its forcing water to travel counter clock wise going through the bottom hose and into the radiator.

[liquid_cool]

i have to agree with poshatch and when you look at the water pump it looks like its forcing water to travel counter clock wise going through the bottom hose and into the radiator.

not pokin fun at you but..you really dont know your own car that well......do this bro to better understand...after a short drive..like for 10 mins...turn the car off and pop the hood....now touch the upper hose and it will be damn hot....do the same to the bottom hose and you will notice the difference instantly....its a bottom to top system guys...keep that in mind...after you have done this...re-read this post and consider my idea again..feel free to comment back.

[nismoracingsx]

considering the system is designed to flow in one direction, switching direction of flow might mess up cooling efficiency horribly. if it was so simple, don't ya think you'd have seen this on more 240's?

nice idea on the electric pump though, i was always tempted to do one as well, post up a new thread if you pick it up.

[poshatch]

yes even with your proven, if its hot method, reversing the flow on a system designed to flow one way would result with bad flow, period

and there could be various factors as to why your testing things by touching them would result with false info, i.e. the top hose gets minimal air flowing by it to cool it where the bottom is unrestricted

but then again, and like i said previously, im no wiz

but i still kinda think by looking at the set up of everything, that it flows from the top downward, the upward cooling system i think has been obsolite for a very long time now and dont you think nissan would have known better?

just my two pennies

[brokeded]

honestly, i think the idea is stellar, and i think it is to be looked into, its worth a try. who knows, maybe it will work.......i say go for it man

[AZhitman]

<sigh>

Your cooling system is MORE than sufficient if it's maintained properly. I guarantee you that... We see heat here that'd make you guys cry.

Why not simply bypass the coolant past the intake manifold? Simple.

Get your cooling system back to its original efficiency first. Coolant flush, radiator pressure test, new cap, new thermostat, clean the radiator fins (and all the crap from between the condensor and radiator), make sure your fan clutch works properly, ensure function of overflow system, and use a 90% distilled water / 10% coolant (NOT 'coolant mix') mixture with 2 bottles of Redline Water Wetter.

No need to mod something that was designed right.

p.s. Your radiator wasn't designed for reversed flow, and even if it was, gravity is pretty irrelevant in a sealed system.

[liquid_cool]

the idea is not couse i run warm..im actually right where i want to be temp wise..180 constant....the idea is to cool the head first and the intake manifold for a cooler air charge...anyone who knows racing knows with cooler ambient air temps you get more power..and hotter ones less...due to the O2 molicules ither condensing or expanding...thats why CAI's are such a big hit...im just taking it alittle further with this idea....you never know if something is gona work unless you try it first...back in the 80's when i had my first pocketroket...you had to make your own mods...now days there bolt on...but i still think the same way..how to expand on a system to make it better in a way that suits my driving style...dont think of this post as a problem with overheating...think of this post with an open mind as it may lead to onother mod that can be done to better the ka24de platform.

[brokeded]

GO FOR IT!!!!!! i wanna see!!!!

[AZhitman]

you never know if something is gona work unless you try it first...back in the 80's when i had my first pocketroket...you had to make your own mods...

Or, you observe the experience of seasoned hot-rodders and those who have 400-hp KA's.

Like I said, bypass the intake manifold altogether (although the reality is, you need the temp to be exactly where it is at the head...)

You're not gonna "cool the intake charge" by dropping the temp up top a few degrees. The head was designed for optimum performance and efficiency at 190-195 degrees... Can't imagine much improvement from a decrease.

[liquid_cool]

i think im gona try it anyways AZHITMAN..as allways..i admire your advice..your a real benifit to these forums....im gona do a base dyno run...then the mods i was thinking of..then another dyno run after wards to see what i get...might take me a month or two to get it diald in for block off plate and the pump mods...ill post em up ...even if it fails...i still wana give it a shot...but first things first..gota fit a duraflex kit and do some white paint inside and out

[AZhitman]

Rock on - Post pics!

p.s. I NEVER fault anyone for tearing into something on their car, even if it seems a silly idea (like the guy who molded in all the seams on his car) - That's how you learn.

[Second Shadow]

while we're on the topic, does anyone have a suggestion for a cleaning solution for radiator fins? I was thinking about letting mine soak(sealed of course) in like simple green or another mild degreaser overnight and then rinsing it with a light spray from garden hose.

but, if anyone already has a better method I'd love to hear it.

[seang]

LT1 V8s have reverse cooling from the factory.

As for that cleaning solution for radiator fins, there is this spray on stuff used to clean condensers on AC systems. From what I know it is acidic and needs to be rinsed off in time so it doesn't clean too much.

[liquid_cool]

i just pressure wash mine clean man..easy

[Second Shadow]

see I'd be worried about the pressure washer bending the fins or something. never tried it but I have a koyo and I really don't want to screw it up trying to just clean it.

[liquid_cool]

i dont have that issue....its not like im blasting it up close...my washer is a heated washer...removes any grease oil what ever..you can get close if ya like..they do make a tool called a "Fin Comb" for fixing the fins if you happen to bend one..

[AZhitman]

^ This.

HIt it from the front with some Simple Green or some citrus cleaner, then from the back side with pressure sprayer (force the debris out through the front of the radiator).

Removing it from the car makes it a MUCH easier job. I do mine annually.