alum drive shaft+flywheel ??

Information on the naturally-aspirated KA24E and KA24DE engines.
2.240s
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95 s14 ,intake ,2.5 exuast, looking at adding a aluminum drive shaft & flywheel/clutch.anybody running this set up ?? what is the most noticed difference ?? comments...


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neverlift
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its a fine setup, should make for a super fast reving motor(up/down) add a pulley kit to get the most.

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nvrplzd240
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you'll have an extremely low amount of hp loss between the flywheel and wheels with that setup

should be extremely fun given that most of your power will make it to the ground

steaminhotryce
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I have an AEM SRI, Greddy header, Megan downpipe, Catco high-flow cat, 3" Blitz Realize TT exhaust, Unorthodox aluminum pully, and Fidanza aluminum flywheel for my set up. It's great. Pulls really hard at 4k. Quick up/down revs. I'm gonna get it dyno'd when I have time.

So the only thing I'm missing is the aluminum driveshaft. It's the last piece to my plan on the n/a KA. I just need to find a good deal. They cost waaay too much. Anyone know of a good deal for the driveshaft?

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JNM240
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steaminhotryce wrote:So the only thing I'm missing is the aluminum driveshaft.
Have you removed your stock clutch fan? That should go hand in hand with the crank pulley, imo, since i basically had to remove the fan and shroud to get my impact in to remove the crank bolt.

Ive got the ASP pulley, dual electric fans and Fidanza flywheel, and it revs super fast. The driveshaft would just help put that power to the rear wheels, which would still be an improvement (every little bit helps).

steaminhotryce
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Removing the clutch fan does sound like a great idea.... Although, I'm not to good with wiring stuff. If I can get a knowledgable friend to help me with that, then I would definitely do it.

As for the driveshaft...anyone know of any good deals??

2.240s
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With this basic n/a set up should i install a scatter shield and DS loop. Or not to worry with low hp. And who makes scatter shields for 95 240s ??

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neverlift
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+1 for safety, IDK if you have heard stories about a shaft breaking but it can impail(sc) or worse, flip you over and land on your noodle.

SPIRONIUM
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you already have a driveshaft saftey loop, its the thing that holds the center oem driveshaft bearing. but with the one piece DS you can use that as a safety loop

Poor_S13_Driver
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Take your dimensions/u joint to a driveshaft shop, and tell them to make you one. I think you might be suprised how cheap it is

LayNLow240
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neverlift wrote:+1 for safety, IDK if you have heard stories about a shaft breaking but it can impail(sc) or worse, flip you over and land on your noodle.
mythbusters did a thing on that and busted it. not possible to flip your car from the d/s breaking. but it could cause some damage. alum driveshafts would bend before they shear. you could be a baller and get a c/f driveshaft. no worries about ****ing anything up. if it breaks it disintegrates. plus it weighs less than alum. but not everyone can be ballers.

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Fenvy
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LayNLow240 wrote: mythbusters did a thing on that and busted it. not possible to flip your car from the d/s breaking. but it could cause some damage. alum driveshafts would bend before they shear. you could be a baller and get a c/f driveshaft. no worries about ****ing anything up. if it breaks it disintegrates. plus it weighs less than alum. but not everyone can be ballers.
I need CF flywheel, hell, I need a CF block!

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Rod
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if you have the extra cash, definately go for it. I'm currently running an aluminum driveshaft, Fidanza flywheel, Injen cold-air, Hotshot headers with straight pipe and Apexi GT exhaust, and a ECU flash from Jim Wolf. Car dynoed at 161hp and 165ft/lbs of torque. I also added a SR Engine Dampner and it feels great. Excellent response.

671spiritracing
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I think the driveshaftshop.com makes an aluminum drive shaft. Check them out

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positron1
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I've been researching the lightweight drivetrain components and they say that your car will wrap up pretty quickly with the right combination of components..is this true? That being the lightweight driveshaft, flywheel and pulleys(water pump, ps, crank and alternator).

steaminhotryce
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Sorry for my ignorant question...but what do you mean by "wrap up"?

sliders
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one thing guys..lightened flywheel and driveshaft equalls less torque...yes you will rev quicker but with less torque

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positron1
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sliders wrote:one thing guys..lightened flywheel and driveshaft equalls less torque...yes you will rev quicker but with less torque
Hmmm...didn't know that. Quicker revs to sacrifice torque, the lightweight parts don't sound so good anymore. Is the amount of torque sacrificed dependent on how much weight is lost due to the lightweight parts? I guess what I'm trying to say is that do you lose a lot of torque?

sliders
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To find out exactly how much torque you loose will be up to the dyno. But torque is the result of rotating mass, the heavier the mass the more torque ie a diesel, the lighter the mass the less torque ie B16 motors , high reving but with very little torque. But if your not gonna drift then dont worry about less torque.

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positron1
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That's good to know. I'm not going to drift so I'll stick with the lightweight parts.

2.240s
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S14 hotshotheader,intake ,2.5 exhaust,light pulleys, I can see where the lighter parts would effect the drift (clutch kick). but with lacking hp. would it help in being more responsive? or is there a better combo like alum drive shaft with stock flywheel or vice versa ? The torque is nice with the ka i would hate to effect that.I am not sold on the lighter parts, school me. yay or nay?

blondstrat57
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I'm not an ME (maybe one can chime in if I mess this up) but the lighter components don't cause you to lose torque. They cause you to lose rotational inertia- there is a big difference.

A heavier flywheel feels better than a light one when you let out the clutch because the rotational inertial (rotational energy) is transfered to the driveline and the heavier flywheel acts to keep the engine revs froms dumping....

Once the clutch is fully engaged, the torque (rotational force i.e. the ability to provide rotational acceleration) is only provided by the engine, it isn't REDUCED at all by lighter components.

The lighter components all require less torque to accelerate so with the torque a given engine provides, lighter stuff will accelerate and rev faster. It will also decelerate faster (less rotational inertia). The amount of torque provided by the engine doesn't change.



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