Altima 08 SL Upgrade Stereo System

[nishantsanghvi]

Hi,

I have Altima 08 SL. It does not have a connection package. I was wondering if I can install 6CD changer (MP3 compatible) in place of existing non-bose single CD player.

If Yes, how and where can I get one.How much would it cost?

Awaiting Replies ASAP...

Nish

[AppleBonker]

Are you looking to connect it to the factory stereo? Your best bet for sound quality and features would be to replace the factory stereo. I'm not really sure if there is an easy way to connect a CD changer to the factory head unit. If you add a decent aftermarket head unit, just about anything is possible. You could mount a CD changer somewhere or even go with a DVD player if you so desired. As far as where to get the work done, it's relatively easy and you could probably do it yourself. If not, I'd go to a specialty car audio shop. If I were you I would avoid the likes of Best Buy/Circuit City. They've been known to butcher cars at certain locations. That's not to say that all locations are bad, but you'd probably have better luck at a specialty shop.

[rjdmmfl1]

Hi,

I have Altima 08 SL. It does not have a connection package. I was wondering if I can install 6CD changer (MP3 compatible) in place of existing non-bose single CD player.

If Yes, how and where can I get one.How much would it cost?

Awaiting Replies ASAP...

Nish

R U talking about the factory 6 disc changer? There's two of them, the one that sits in the center console that comes with premium package, non navigation systems, and the one that sits below the center console, that is seperate from the radio, etc.

Neither of which are good ideas to add to non Bose factory systemss... you can get much better sound by going with an aftermarket deck and speakers, and, if you want, add a 6 disc cd changer to the aftermarket deck...

please be more specific and we can give you a bit better and more detailed answers

[iammai]

CD changers are a hassle. Ipod/MP3 player connected to an aftermarket deck is the way to go.

[nishantsanghvi]

I have attached an image which shows the 6 CD Changer (Factory installed). The difference is that I have the same panel, its just that I have a non-bose single CD system which I want to replace with the item as shown in the image. AS for the speakers I would be keeping my same old speakers.

Is it possible to do this. Also wanted to know, if I go ahead and do this replacement, will it have any effect on the audio controls placed on steering wheel?

http://picasaweb.google.com/ni...nger#

[AppleBonker]

The only way to swap the non-Bose unit to get an in dash Bose 6 CD changer would be to add on the rest of the Bose equipment. It would require running all the cables from the head unit to the trunk, installing the amp and new speakers. The Bose head unit is completely different in the way it functions from the base stereo. So, yes, it is doable. However, it would probably cost between $2000 and $3000 for parts and labor. If this is something you truly want, go aftermarket.

[rjdmmfl1]

I have attached an image which shows the 6 CD Changer (Factory installed). The difference is that I have the same panel, its just that I have a non-bose single CD system which I want to replace with the item as shown in the image. AS for the speakers I would be keeping my same old speakers.

Is it possible to do this. Also wanted to know, if I go ahead and do this replacement, will it have any effect on the audio controls placed on steering wheel?

http://picasaweb.google.com/ni...nger#

I understand what you want to do, but there are a number of limitations and reasons this is not feasible... I'll touch on a few of them that Applebonker didn;t mention

because the 6 disc unit is a BOse unit, it REQUIRES the use of an amplifier, i.e. the BOSE "system" like Applebonker stated... without this, if you hooked up the Bose 6 dic to your factory system, it will sound horrible. Even at high volumes, the sound is barely audible! I have done this to a forum member's car, and he HAD to get an aftermarket amplifier in order to hear music from his speakers at a decent level.

Next, the front for the 6 disc changer is different compared to yours at a few levels.

1st, the opening for the climate controls is different in the premium package vehicles (bose 6 disc) vs standard vehicles.

2nd, and this ties into the first, in order to even get this entire thing to work, you will need to remove the entire black front piece of your stereo, and combine that with the circuit board of the 6 disc changer ( located immediately behind the black piece) in order to have all of the functions of the 6 disc changer . This is easy enough with diagrams, but if you're not familliar with basic do it yourself, you could easily mess this up badly during this process!

All in all, it is just not worth the hassle and headache just to say you got a 6 disc changer in the dash!

[AppleBonker]

Oh yeah, I forgot about the climate control module too. Yeah, this job is possible, but there's no way it's worth spending the money on. It'll end up costing at least 2-3 times as much as it would've to just get the added package when you first got the car.

[nishantsanghvi]

Thanks guys for the advise. I guess I would keep out from buying that 6 CD changer.

Thanks again.

[rbsmith2000]

Hi Guys,

I am looking at this myself. I looked into the after-market solution, but in the Denver area, all I could find was a Pioneer CD & DVD changer with a replacement dash panel from Metra. Total cost was $1,240.

I happened on a salvage deal for $350 (complete with shipping) for the Connection Package version of the changer with an aftermarket amp. The changer comes complete with the dash panel and environmental controls for that price. Do you see any complications with using the panel and the environmental controls in my 08 2.5s (manual tran)? It has an 'auto' button that looks unfamiliar. Does that require more electronics to get that to work or ???

[AppleBonker]

I happened on a salvage deal for $350 (complete with shipping) for the Connection Package version of the changer with an aftermarket amp. The changer comes complete with the dash panel and environmental controls for that price. Do you see any complications with using the panel and the environmental controls in my 08 2.5s (manual tran)? It has an 'auto' button that looks unfamiliar. Does that require more electronics to get that to work or ???

Since you don't already have an amp in your trunk, the wiring in your car is COMPLETELY different from what is in the car that comes with the Bose unit. Anything is possible, but this would be an incredibly difficult install. You would essentially need to rewire the entire car. Also, the speakers are different too (different impedance I believe), so they would need to be changed as well. All of this is not worth it IMO.

[rbsmith2000]

I see your point on the wiring and impedence. That's why I went with the after-market amp. It's smaller and less powerful than the Bose version and its heat dissipation is low enough so it can be installed in the dash, if the space is adequate. It should be able to push the existing speakers and match their impedence, as well as solving the wiring issue.

Do you know what the impedence is for the base 2.5s speakers? It would help me set the impedence on the amp.

I'm also concerned about matching the environmental controls to the systems in the 2.5s. Do you have any hints about that?

[AppleBonker]

I see your point on the wiring and impedence. That's why I went with the after-market amp. It's smaller and less powerful than the Bose version and its heat dissipation is low enough so it can be installed in the dash, if the space is adequate. It should be able to push the existing speakers and match their impedence, as well as solving the wiring issue.

Do you know what the impedence is for the base 2.5s speakers? It would help me set the impedence on the amp.

I'm also concerned about matching the environmental controls to the systems in the 2.5s. Do you have any hints about that?

I'm pretty sure the base speakers are 2-ohm. The best way to check that would be to pull one out and look at the back (it should be printed on there). Or, you could connect it to a multimeter and see what that reads.

Do you already have an aftermarket amp? If so, what model? I'm not sure what you mean by setting the impedance on the amp. This isn't something that can be controlled. Either the amp can support a 2-ohm load or it can't. Also, a 2-ohm load will generally create more heat in the amp, so this could be a problem depending on where you are trying to mount it.

For the climate controls, are you trying to replace your current manual controls with the automatic controls? Or are you trying to continue to use your current controls in the Bose head unit? The shape is different, so your current controls wont work without some decent modification. If you're trying to install the auto controls (someone has had to have tried this by now?) I'll have to check the service manual and see if the connectors will even allow this.

[rbsmith2000]

Yes, you are correct on the impedence, it only changes based on the number of speakers - 2 ohms for 4 speakers.

Here is a link to view the amp. It can be used on a car or motorcycle. Excluding the mounting flange, it is about 3.7 x 3.7 x 1.6

http://www.millionbuy.com/nitbmw43.html

Regarding the environmental controls, I had assumed that I had to use the ones that came with the panel, but having further inspected everything, it looks like I should remove the entire changer unit from the dash panel and mount it to my car's panel. That should work, yes? I will also need plugs (for the unit) with pigtails to solder on RCA jacks for the amp. Any idea where I could find plugs to fit the changer?

Here is a link to what I have:

http://cas07.businessflow.ms/3...c20a4

[rbsmith2000]

I skimmed the AV chapter of the service manual. I guess all I have to do is cut into the speaker wires on plug M43: 2&3, 11&12, 4&5, and 13&14. These would feed to the amp inputs. I guess co-ax cabling would be best.

[AppleBonker]

You'll have a hard time getting your environmental controls to fit in there. The openings are completely different. I'd have to check the service manual later to see if the wiring is the same to both climate control modules. If it is, you might as well use the auto since it's got a couple of nice features to it.

As far as getting the signal goes, you're on the right track with the service manual. That will probably be a life saver when it comes time to working on this.

The only problems I see right now are as follows:

That amplifier does not look like it is stable to 2 ohms (unless I'm missing something). This could be a problem that will damage the amp.

Also, the amp doesn't appear to have speaker level inputs (although I can't tell what's on that wiring harness), so you'll need a line-out converter like this to run rca's into the amp.

[rbsmith2000]

Thanks for the heads-up on the input gain issue. I've saved this link in my Favorites.

This little amp does have dual gain controls (front vs. back). The instructions are a bit funny: Start low and turn up the gain until distortion begins. Would those be adequate for the gain differential you mention? Here's another link from another vendor.

http://www.audiodiscounters.co....html

Regarding the environmental controls, I think the unit in the salvage package is for back and front ventilation. I don't have ducts on the back of my console, so that probably rules out using this control. I checked the plug on the back of both units, though, and it appears to be the same. I am leaning toward moving the entire changer, including the front board to the car's original face plate. It won't say 'changer' on it, but I can't say I am concerned about the labeling.

[AppleBonker]

Thanks for the heads-up on the input gain issue. I've saved this link in my Favorites.

This little amp does have dual gain controls (front vs. back). The instructions are a bit funny: Start low and turn up the gain until distortion begins. Would those be adequate for the gain differential you mention? Here's another link from another vendor.

I've read similar instructions before. Those are only useful if you can recognize the point when distortion begins to occur. It's far easier to first set the gains with a multimeter as outlined in the FAQ.

Regarding the environmental controls, I think the unit in the salvage package is for back and front ventilation. I don't have ducts on the back of my console, so that probably rules out using this control. I checked the plug on the back of both units, though, and it appears to be the same. I am leaning toward moving the entire changer, including the front board to the car's original face plate. It won't say 'changer' on it, but I can't say I am concerned about the labeling.

No, those climate controls are dual zone (driver/passenger). The A/C has vents under both the driver and passenger seat, but there are no other vents in the rear. It would be easier to not have to move the board to your current head unit, so I'd give it a try at first with the dual zone climate controls. Like I said, I'd be surprised if someone hasn't already tried to do this as seems like it would be a value-added mod. I don't have time to right now, but I'll try to look at the service manual to see if this is even feasible.

[rbsmith2000]

Well, it might come down to how much space is available in the dash for the amp. I notice the environmental OEM unit is a bit smaller. Also there is a ventilation hole in the salvage unit. Putting a warm amp close by may not be the thing.

BTW - I took apart the salvage audio unit, including circuit board. It was a bit unexpected in construction, but if you are telling me the display panel will work between the changer circuit board and the OEM display, the space issue may drive my decision.

BTW2 - This link was helpful for pulling the audio unit:http://www.nissanclub.com/foru....html

[AppleBonker]

I took apart the salvage audio unit, including circuit board. It was a bit unexpected in construction, but if you are telling me the display panel will work between the changer circuit board and the OEM display, the space issue may drive my decision.

I'm not sure how easy this would be to do, having never done it myself. If you try to go this route, let us know how it works.

BTW2 - This link was helpful for pulling the audio unit:

Doc did a write-up with pics on here as well. This is linked in the FAQ.

[rbsmith2000]

Thanks for the extra pics. All things good, I'll do it this weekend & let you know. If the space is short behind the audio unit for the amp, I may find other spots under the dash or on the left side of the dash console space. I wanted to consider hanging it from the top of the console space, but the #@&!!&! power receptacle is in the way.

[rbsmith2000]

So...

I plugged in the salvage unit and it gives a message:

Temp/mech error

then

Push Eject

It will not accept a CD and I can hear the mechanism moving occasionally.

I found a reference to the error messages in the manual and it suggests that the unit is too hot. It is not. Are you familiar with this error?

[AppleBonker]

Are you familiar with this error?

I've never heard of that. But I didn't really have my Bose head unit in long enough to even play with it. I think I only ran it for a couple of weeks when I first got the car. Maybe it was a bum unit since it was salvaged?

[rbsmith2000]

Yeah, the changer unit was actually DOA. After playing, poking, shaking, inverting and cursing, it wouldn't play, wouldn't eject. Also, it looks like CDs are (trapped) inside. On to plan 'B'.

Do you know of a trim piece or kit that would accommodate a manual environmental control in a automatic opening?

[AppleBonker]

Yeah, the changer unit was actually DOA. After playing, poking, shaking, inverting and cursing, it wouldn't play, wouldn't eject. Also, it looks like CDs are (trapped) inside. On to plan 'B'.

Do you know of a trim piece or kit that would accommodate a manual environmental control in a automatic opening?

Unfortunately I don't believe this is possible. There would be some gaps/holes between the climate module and the trim piece. Here's a couple of pics that hopefully show some of the differences:

[rbsmith2000]

Well, it's always something. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roseanne_Roseannadanna)

I was thinking of a wood or aluminum trim kit. A Dremel tool with a grinder wheel could add the extra curves. Actually, what I'll try first is moving the changer and the logic board to the old panel. The panels are almost identical except there is a mute/pause button where the CD load button is on the panel with the changer. I checked the display panels and they seem to display identical info.

[rbsmith2000]

I transferred the (another) CD changer to the original face plate, including the circuit board. I also moved the CD load button from the replacement faceplate. Everything seems to work normally, so I am setting up the mini-amp. It seems to work well, but I am concerned about the power connection. I spliced into the power lead to the console power outlet. The amp has an in-line 10 fuse, but I am concerned about overloading the fuse and line to the power outlet. The fuse block doesn't seem to lend itself to adding accessories. Is there a better way to get power for an accessory?