Hey guys, I remember seeing a thread, somewhere, about an alternator swap someone had done where they used a GM model that was something like 140 or 170 amps. But I can't seem to find it any longer. Apparently the mounting bolt pattern was identical to the stock ones and needed no mods to fit like the Maxima alternators do.
Does anyone happen to still have a link saved to that, or remember the thread? Any info on this alternator would be appreciated.
Alternator question
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AZhitman
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Re: Alternator question
Infiniti I30 alternator.
I've rarely, if ever, seen a need for >80A alt in a car, even with a monster audio system with multiple amps.
First order of business should be to make sure you're getting sufficient charging - 80A is simply the max capacity. If you're not exceeding 80A required charge at all times, there's no real need for the extra. If you still think you need it, the INfiniti unit is probably your best bolt-in bet.
I've rarely, if ever, seen a need for >80A alt in a car, even with a monster audio system with multiple amps.
First order of business should be to make sure you're getting sufficient charging - 80A is simply the max capacity. If you're not exceeding 80A required charge at all times, there's no real need for the extra. If you still think you need it, the INfiniti unit is probably your best bolt-in bet.
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Destrto
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Re: Alternator question
Any particular year models to look for?AZhitman wrote: ↑Fri Oct 13, 2017 11:15 pmInfiniti I30 alternator.
I've rarely, if ever, seen a need for >80A alt in a car, even with a monster audio system with multiple amps.
First order of business should be to make sure you're getting sufficient charging - 80A is simply the max capacity. If you're not exceeding 80A required charge at all times, there's no real need for the extra. If you still think you need it, the INfiniti unit is probably your best bolt-in bet.
I don't seem to be having any issues currently, but I did recently find that my previous alternator was dying. Which was where the lack of charging issues stemmed my interest in finding a higher amperage alternator.
Re: Alternator question
'...80A is simply the max capacity. If you're not exceeding 80A required charge at all times, there's no real need for the extra.'
You actually should never run any alt at max capacity, except for extremely short periods. When they match them to cars OEM they do so with some overhead to avoid pushing them to the max all the time.
It's even worse on later 100+ amp alts like many cars use currently. Many of them get very hard pressed if you push them all the way out to max amp all the time. If ECM controlled the ECM will often at some point limit the charging to control that issue by means of temperature control.
You actually should never run any alt at max capacity, except for extremely short periods. When they match them to cars OEM they do so with some overhead to avoid pushing them to the max all the time.
It's even worse on later 100+ amp alts like many cars use currently. Many of them get very hard pressed if you push them all the way out to max amp all the time. If ECM controlled the ECM will often at some point limit the charging to control that issue by means of temperature control.
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AZhitman
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Re: Alternator question
Correct.
I don't think the OP is maxing his out. In fact, even if he had a 140a alternator that was in the same condition as his current one, it wouldn't help. A lack of charging isn't because of the amperage rating, it's because there's an issue between the alternator and the battery.
Just replace it with the correct unit for the car and call it good.
I don't think the OP is maxing his out. In fact, even if he had a 140a alternator that was in the same condition as his current one, it wouldn't help. A lack of charging isn't because of the amperage rating, it's because there's an issue between the alternator and the battery.
Just replace it with the correct unit for the car and call it good.
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Destrto
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Re: Alternator question
Exactly. I got lucky and the one I previously had on the car was still under warranty. Got it replaced (after a bit of a fiasco with them) and all seem well now.AZhitman wrote: ↑Mon Oct 16, 2017 10:40 pmCorrect.
I don't think the OP is maxing his out. In fact, even if he had a 140a alternator that was in the same condition as his current one, it wouldn't help. A lack of charging isn't because of the amperage rating, it's because there's an issue between the alternator and the battery.
Just replace it with the correct unit for the car and call it good.
I was more so just curious after the fact, because I remember finding a youtube video of a guy that replaced his z31 alternator with a generic GM model that matched the mounting pattern, and could have swore that there was one similar for the z32.
Re: Alternator question
The most common GM alt used on swaps is the 10SI model, as it has a simple one wire hookup. I have no clue about the matchup to bolt pattern on one of these though.
'Just replace it with the correct unit for the car and call it good.'
X2, usually the best thing to do, that way there are no conflicting issues.
Be aware though the new replacement alt may give trouble too, either rebuilt or brand new alts are one of the biggest problems there are now in car parts, many people have to change more than one and it turns into a vicious cycle with the store bought ones and even worse if the lifetime warrantied ones. By lifetime they do NOT mean the part is of a better quality, rather, that they have built it so cheap in China that they actually intend to give you alt after alt when they break due to the heavy use of substandard parts. I saw so many go inside 3 months I could not count them when I was in parts and about 20% of them failed testing right out of the boxes. I had customers on their 4th or 5th alt in less than 3 years.
I run mostly Fords and the worst alts made on the planet, I learned to rebuild them for at as low as 30 cents for solder myself as paying $200 a pop for one that will simply break again in a couple months was simply ridiculous. The ones I fix myself as well last much longer than the ones I can buy.
Looking forward to the day I rebuild one of these alts, Japanese technology is just generally so much better than what we get over here.
'Just replace it with the correct unit for the car and call it good.'
X2, usually the best thing to do, that way there are no conflicting issues.
Be aware though the new replacement alt may give trouble too, either rebuilt or brand new alts are one of the biggest problems there are now in car parts, many people have to change more than one and it turns into a vicious cycle with the store bought ones and even worse if the lifetime warrantied ones. By lifetime they do NOT mean the part is of a better quality, rather, that they have built it so cheap in China that they actually intend to give you alt after alt when they break due to the heavy use of substandard parts. I saw so many go inside 3 months I could not count them when I was in parts and about 20% of them failed testing right out of the boxes. I had customers on their 4th or 5th alt in less than 3 years.
I run mostly Fords and the worst alts made on the planet, I learned to rebuild them for at as low as 30 cents for solder myself as paying $200 a pop for one that will simply break again in a couple months was simply ridiculous. The ones I fix myself as well last much longer than the ones I can buy.
Looking forward to the day I rebuild one of these alts, Japanese technology is just generally so much better than what we get over here.