OK im trying tp remove my alternator in my 2001 Max and am a bit confused.
First id like to explain I had a local shop install a replacement back in 2014.
My question is
Is there a bolt that attaches the upper bracket to the block?
Im seeing a headless bolt seized into the block directly above the alternator upper bracket. The bracket is not attached to the block.
Second the alternator through bolt has no head. Its a tear drop shaped piece of steel with a hook on it.
The shop must have tightened the nut while the hook was positioned against the alternator. Its bent and not holding the stud still. What i have is both sides spinning.
What a PITN!
Has any other max owners had issues loosening the alternator pivot bolt?
Thanks
Alternator mounting
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centralcoaster33
- Posts: 2769
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
- Car: 240SX #5-1997
- Location: Central Coast, CA
Re: Alternator mounting
Well, if it's like a typical alternator, you'll unplug the wires, remove the belt, loosen the alternator pivot bolt (wedge something in the back to keep it from spinning), remove the sliding adjuster bolt and the small block looking bracket that goes on the large arcing bracket, remove the pivot bolt, use a pry bar to pop out the alternator. Sometimes, to gain access you might feel like removing the larger arcing bracket. Those typically bolt onto the engine block with two or three bolts that should be visible.
Doh! I'm a 240sx guy. Sorry. I just watched the below video. Watch that and ignore most of what I posted above. Looks like you have a serpentine belt with a tension pulley to loosen, not an arcing bracket thing. Try this video for a 2000 Max:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RijNmGtnkqM
If that doesn't help... FSM! Not sure what chapter, start at FWD.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2001/
Doh! I'm a 240sx guy. Sorry. I just watched the below video. Watch that and ignore most of what I posted above. Looks like you have a serpentine belt with a tension pulley to loosen, not an arcing bracket thing. Try this video for a 2000 Max:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RijNmGtnkqM
If that doesn't help... FSM! Not sure what chapter, start at FWD.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2001/
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
Thanks ill check You Tube out then.
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
When you say "pry" the alternator out where do you place the leverage point?
Make a long story short i wound up cutting the nut from the pivot pin and removed the pin.
If i am going to pry this out id place a piece of wood for leverage!
If you crack casted metal the crack can migrate ! This is what i dont want to happen!
Make a long story short i wound up cutting the nut from the pivot pin and removed the pin.
If i am going to pry this out id place a piece of wood for leverage!
If you crack casted metal the crack can migrate ! This is what i dont want to happen!
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centralcoaster33
- Posts: 2769
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
- Car: 240SX #5-1997
- Location: Central Coast, CA
Re: Alternator mounting
Sorry Max, I started typing away with my usual experience... then I watched that video. You're setup is a bit different than mine, so the pry out part may be different. Maybe try searching the FSM, I looked a while, but couldn't find it. Maybe try more online videos. I'm not really sure you have a pivot pin, exactly. It seems you have a serpentine belt with a tensioner pulley. So, a pivot pin doesn't seem like it would be used. Anyway, there are tools called Cat Claws that are like mini crow bars. Those can be wedged between the block and the alternator and used to pry it out. I understand your concern about cracks. I've yet to see one crack, but that doesn't mean it can't be done. I'd be careful not to apply too much force to a focal point. Perhaps you can wedge some wood between the block and the pry to help spread out the energy. I'm sorry if I'm not much help at this point. How's it going on your end? Maybe post a photo or two from different angles if you're still stuck and fussing with it. Is the alternator at least loose in its location?
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
As i mentioned the upper bracket was not reattached bolt head missing.
Nut didnt break as planned. other side had a tab on it which i eventually found out pops off if you grab it with a pliers.
Ok i did pry it out. What i did was put a rag over a screw driver then pryed it. It did come out.
Nut didnt break as planned. other side had a tab on it which i eventually found out pops off if you grab it with a pliers.
Ok i did pry it out. What i did was put a rag over a screw driver then pryed it. It did come out.
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
OK after cutting the nut off with a grinder then removing the alternator I eventually went to put it back in.
(I bought a new pivot bolt and had to extract upper bracket bolt as it was headless seized.
What a royal PITN because I had to remove the motor mount then jack up the motor, remove p/s oil cooler lines, windsheild washer tank filler neck, and coolant overflow tank to be able to fit my drill into place to extract the bolt.)
Make a long story short I wound up getting the alternator back in.
Now when I start the car I get a grinding noise coming from in and around the alternator and a battery warning lamp & parking brake illuminates at start-up.(battery not charging properly?) The parking brake is off but light is on with battery light.
After the car warms up the lights go off but still a grinding noise.
Also if I try to drive off before allowing the car to warm up the car doesnt want to pick up it hesitates.
Also the battery voltage at start-up is 12.5V DC. My main question here is Does the car have to run for a while before you get 14V or are you supposed to get 14V right after start-up?
After the car runs then the battery lamp goes off im only getting 13.5V on the battery.
I may need to replace the alternator now.
(I bought a new pivot bolt and had to extract upper bracket bolt as it was headless seized.
What a royal PITN because I had to remove the motor mount then jack up the motor, remove p/s oil cooler lines, windsheild washer tank filler neck, and coolant overflow tank to be able to fit my drill into place to extract the bolt.)
Make a long story short I wound up getting the alternator back in.
Now when I start the car I get a grinding noise coming from in and around the alternator and a battery warning lamp & parking brake illuminates at start-up.(battery not charging properly?) The parking brake is off but light is on with battery light.
After the car warms up the lights go off but still a grinding noise.
Also if I try to drive off before allowing the car to warm up the car doesnt want to pick up it hesitates.
Also the battery voltage at start-up is 12.5V DC. My main question here is Does the car have to run for a while before you get 14V or are you supposed to get 14V right after start-up?
After the car runs then the battery lamp goes off im only getting 13.5V on the battery.
I may need to replace the alternator now.
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centralcoaster33
- Posts: 2769
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
- Car: 240SX #5-1997
- Location: Central Coast, CA
Re: Alternator mounting
Well, at least you got those bolts removed and replaced. So, there is some progress.
I was going to suggest loosening the belt and checking your wires, like the alternator wasn't working, but I'm not so sure. The battery should give about 12.2 volts. With the engine running, the alternator is spinning and you should have 14.4 volts at that time. That you get anything more than 12.2 volts means the alternator is pushing something out.
The grinding could be from the alternator either being installed crooked or that the belt is too tight or that the bearings are shot. Maybe start with loosening the belt some.
There are three significant wires on my alternator, the large wire that bolts to the alternator (I think it's the positive wire and goes to the battery), the small wire harness plug, with maybe like 6 wires in it and it plugs into the alternator for like signal wires and such, and a thick wire, not as big as the giant one, but thicker than smaller ones, bolts right to the metal chassis of the Alternator (I think it's a ground wire).
I once left the smaller ground wire disconnected and the alternator wouldn't push juice to the battery and died out during my test drive. I connected it on the side of the road, got a jump from a passerby and all worked fine from then on.
I was going to suggest loosening the belt and checking your wires, like the alternator wasn't working, but I'm not so sure. The battery should give about 12.2 volts. With the engine running, the alternator is spinning and you should have 14.4 volts at that time. That you get anything more than 12.2 volts means the alternator is pushing something out.
The grinding could be from the alternator either being installed crooked or that the belt is too tight or that the bearings are shot. Maybe start with loosening the belt some.
There are three significant wires on my alternator, the large wire that bolts to the alternator (I think it's the positive wire and goes to the battery), the small wire harness plug, with maybe like 6 wires in it and it plugs into the alternator for like signal wires and such, and a thick wire, not as big as the giant one, but thicker than smaller ones, bolts right to the metal chassis of the Alternator (I think it's a ground wire).
I once left the smaller ground wire disconnected and the alternator wouldn't push juice to the battery and died out during my test drive. I connected it on the side of the road, got a jump from a passerby and all worked fine from then on.
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
OK I wound up getting a mechanics Stethoscope from Harbor freight then pinpointed this grinding sound is alternator.
I think either since was mounting incorrectly beforehand it couldve damaged bearings or through the cutting from the Dremel blade the metal dust got into the bearing.
It has to be in its fixed position to function. If the upper bracket bolt head is snapped the generator pivots down and sits in a lower position. This could have a negative effect.
Either way the belt is currently at 160lbs.
It's on fine!
I just placed an order for a Hitachi ALR0006 with Rock Auto.
It should be here by the end of the week.
Thanks
I think either since was mounting incorrectly beforehand it couldve damaged bearings or through the cutting from the Dremel blade the metal dust got into the bearing.
It has to be in its fixed position to function. If the upper bracket bolt head is snapped the generator pivots down and sits in a lower position. This could have a negative effect.
Either way the belt is currently at 160lbs.
It's on fine!
I just placed an order for a Hitachi ALR0006 with Rock Auto.
It should be here by the end of the week.
Thanks
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centralcoaster33
- Posts: 2769
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
- Car: 240SX #5-1997
- Location: Central Coast, CA
Re: Alternator mounting
Okay, good deal. I hope it bolts up nicely and has good bearings. I like that you used a stethoscope to confirm your suspicions before spending money on parts!
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
Im seeing the original alternator was
Hitachi #LR1100-725C
(this I got from the FSM)
The part I ordered is
remanufactured Hitachi ALR0006 I assume this is 110amps.
I was seeing a few different Hitachi alternators listed for this car too
Hitachi W0133-1724589
Hitachi W0133-2218545
Hitachi W0133-2186345
I guess these will all fit and work fine?
Hitachi #LR1100-725C
(this I got from the FSM)
The part I ordered is
remanufactured Hitachi ALR0006 I assume this is 110amps.
I was seeing a few different Hitachi alternators listed for this car too
Hitachi W0133-1724589
Hitachi W0133-2218545
Hitachi W0133-2186345
I guess these will all fit and work fine?
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centralcoaster33
- Posts: 2769
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
- Car: 240SX #5-1997
- Location: Central Coast, CA
Re: Alternator mounting
Well, I'd look at the specs, then the prices. There could be a high and and low amp model (for fog lights or something) and there could be an early year and later year model for a design change.
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
I got this part Hitachi ALR0006 then installed next day.
Ater putting this in im only getting 12V at the battery while running the car.
Is it possible the new alternator could be bad?
I was looking to get 14.7 V at the battery.
Even if those was a 100Amp alternator I should get 14V at battery while running the car.
Ater putting this in im only getting 12V at the battery while running the car.
Is it possible the new alternator could be bad?
I was looking to get 14.7 V at the battery.
Even if those was a 100Amp alternator I should get 14V at battery while running the car.
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
Oh s*** i realized just after I posted the previous message that I didnt have the plug clicked in place!
It wasnt making contact.
It wasnt making contact.
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
This was very helpful! Thank you I actually didnt realize the connection wasnt connected!centralcoaster33 wrote: ↑Mon Sep 18, 2017 11:14 amWell, at least you got those bolts removed and replaced. So, there is some progress.
I was going to suggest loosening the belt and checking your wires, like the alternator wasn't working, but I'm not so sure. The battery should give about 12.2 volts. With the engine running, the alternator is spinning and you should have 14.4 volts at that time. That you get anything more than 12.2 volts means the alternator is pushing something out.
The grinding could be from the alternator either being installed crooked or that the belt is too tight or that the bearings are shot. Maybe start with loosening the belt some.
There are three significant wires on my alternator, the large wire that bolts to the alternator (I think it's the positive wire and goes to the battery), the small wire harness plug, with maybe like 6 wires in it and it plugs into the alternator for like signal wires and such, and a thick wire, not as big as the giant one, but thicker than smaller ones, bolts right to the metal chassis of the Alternator (I think it's a ground wire).
I once left the smaller ground wire disconnected and the alternator wouldn't push juice to the battery and died out during my test drive. I connected it on the side of the road, got a jump from a passerby and all worked fine from then on.
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
half the youtubers on this job are explaining to their viewers to unplug this thing at the alternator well IMO its impossible!
Thats why if you replace the alternator on a Maxima unplug the subharness then remove the alternator.
The new alternator should come with a new subharness too but it doesnt.
Take it to the bench swap the subharness over to the new alternator then put it back in. This way you can see the B circuit is a good clean contact!
I cant even see if its in or not if its buried under wires and brackets!
B.S.
Thats why if you replace the alternator on a Maxima unplug the subharness then remove the alternator.
The new alternator should come with a new subharness too but it doesnt.
Take it to the bench swap the subharness over to the new alternator then put it back in. This way you can see the B circuit is a good clean contact!
I cant even see if its in or not if its buried under wires and brackets!
B.S.
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
I did mention tbe car hesitates.
This Im thinking is because while I put in the new A/T mount I removed the MAF and decided to clean it with CRC MAF cleaner.
I also wrapped the air cleaner box with some new expanding foam.
I put a new Premium STP high particulate air filter in too.
Maybe just time for a new MAF?
This Im thinking is because while I put in the new A/T mount I removed the MAF and decided to clean it with CRC MAF cleaner.
I also wrapped the air cleaner box with some new expanding foam.
I put a new Premium STP high particulate air filter in too.
Maybe just time for a new MAF?
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centralcoaster33
- Posts: 2769
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
- Car: 240SX #5-1997
- Location: Central Coast, CA
Re: Alternator mounting
That kind of sucks about the pigtail sub-harness bit. Hopefully you get it all connected and working properly soon. For the MAF, due to cost, I don't just suggest to replace them on a whim. You have a modern car with modern computer, check for codes. A bad MAF will throw a code and usually cause a CEL. I've used CRC MAF cleaner without hiccup. I'm not familiar with foaming an intake, you're just sealing up the filter box for good measure? I have had to replace the MAF though. I first tried a used one, then I got a remanufactured unit from online (ballpark $120 IIRC). The Nissan branded OEM ones were super expensive. In addition to the ECU codes, another test is to simply unplug it and see if you get improvements in idle and starting. The ECU can compensate for a failed MAF by using the TPS and O2 sensor is my understanding, it's just a lag in optimization while driving because the O2 changes after all the combustion stuff and then sends feedback instead of the MAF giving feedback before combustion.
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
MAF - OES genuine - $99 - Parts Geek
01 2001 Nissan Maxima Air Mass Sensor - Air Intake - A1 Cardone, Beck Arnley, Delphi, Dorman, Genuine, Hitachi, Replacement, Spectra Premium, Standard Motor Products, Walker - PartsGeek
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2001/ ... ensor.html
What about running the engine then unplugging the MAF then plugging it back in?
Would this re-set the ECU?
01 2001 Nissan Maxima Air Mass Sensor - Air Intake - A1 Cardone, Beck Arnley, Delphi, Dorman, Genuine, Hitachi, Replacement, Spectra Premium, Standard Motor Products, Walker - PartsGeek
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2001/ ... ensor.html
What about running the engine then unplugging the MAF then plugging it back in?
Would this re-set the ECU?
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centralcoaster33
- Posts: 2769
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
- Car: 240SX #5-1997
- Location: Central Coast, CA
Re: Alternator mounting
I don't recommend plugging in our unplugging a MAF while the engine is running. Neither should reset your ECU. A scan tool can reset your ECU or unhooking the battery can reset the ECU if that is what you desire. It's not quite like rebooting a computer, where that fixes things and clears your RAM and Cache. It is preferred and recommended to fix the issue the ECU throws a code for and then to let the ECU self diagnose and clear the code on it's own.
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
After loosening the belt to almost 100lbs from 160lbs still a small grinding noise.
If i loosen it too much the things going to smoke up!
If i loosen it too much the things going to smoke up!
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
It sounds pretty smooth I think I can live with it. Its a remanned so its probably going to be a bit noisy. I would like to hear the Denso they had. I bet that wouldve been a bit smoother.
I do have a whinning coming from the compressor too. Its more of a high pitched whine.i replaced suction with a GPD hose so I will charge it up this weekend maybe the noise will diminish a bit? New Calsonic runs about aprox. $600 OUCH!
After unplugging the MAF during idle then plugging back in the car runs a lot better.
I do have a whinning coming from the compressor too. Its more of a high pitched whine.i replaced suction with a GPD hose so I will charge it up this weekend maybe the noise will diminish a bit? New Calsonic runs about aprox. $600 OUCH!
After unplugging the MAF during idle then plugging back in the car runs a lot better.
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centralcoaster33
- Posts: 2769
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
- Car: 240SX #5-1997
- Location: Central Coast, CA
Re: Alternator mounting
Interesting stuff. The only logical explanation for that MAF improvement I can think of is the plug was not making a very good connection and you've simply re-seated it. Maybe polish the contacts on both sides of the plug (or whatever you can get access to) and add some dielectric grease to help maintain a good connection.
$600 for an AC charge up! DAYAMMMM, that is very expensive. I pulled the AC from my 240sx. Before removal, I took it to an AC store and let them suck out the refrigerant because, you know, proper disposal. There was no charge to me. I guess they were getting something of value out of it. That was a few years ago and likely the 'old stuff'. Heck, maybe they'd charge me if I did it today.
$600 for an AC charge up! DAYAMMMM, that is very expensive. I pulled the AC from my 240sx. Before removal, I took it to an AC store and let them suck out the refrigerant because, you know, proper disposal. There was no charge to me. I guess they were getting something of value out of it. That was a few years ago and likely the 'old stuff'. Heck, maybe they'd charge me if I did it today.
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
Im almost certain now the noise was primarily the compressor.
The alternator too had a grinding sound but the new one too a very small grinding noise.
So i have another car and checked that and the alternator was smooth.
The 240SX sounds a bit easier to manage.
The alternator too had a grinding sound but the new one too a very small grinding noise.
So i have another car and checked that and the alternator was smooth.
The 240SX sounds a bit easier to manage.
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
I just realized I got oil in CMPS connection.
Its leaking in through at base of the electrical pin.
This may be why the car was running badly.
I will need a new one of these now too.
Its leaking in through at base of the electrical pin.
This may be why the car was running badly.
I will need a new one of these now too.
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
I pulled both CSPS's and founf a small crack by the magnetic tip. This is the sensor by the Flywheel.
Also metal shards too. I take it these are from the starter contacting the flywheel?
Also metal shards too. I take it these are from the starter contacting the flywheel?
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centralcoaster33
- Posts: 2769
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
- Car: 240SX #5-1997
- Location: Central Coast, CA
Re: Alternator mounting
Maybe. Usually contact destroys the whole end of the thing, not just a small crack, so I'd suspect heat exposure for the crack. I've had the sensor destroyed though. Not sure what get's between the two that tears it up, but something. Half of mine was gone. I think Crankshaft Position Sensor is CPS and Camshaft position sensor is CSPS, but I don't know for sure and I get confused when people use the acronym. I assume you refer to the former since you mention flywheel and starter. I have read that a broken CPS merely sends a CEL and does not affect engine operation, but I don't remember where. I'd look at replacing the sensors. I'd consider dropping the tranny and inspecting the clutch, flywheel and such inside the bell housing to look for culprits of the metal shards. Could be starter teeth I suppose or pressure plate bits or something. I don't know. One doesn't like to open a can of worms when one doesn't need to.
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
The sensor could've developed a crack around the end of it then slowly broke off.
These I'm under the impression are magnets somehow attached to copper windings.
I'd say you could find generic ones on eBay from China that would work out fine.
These I'm under the impression are magnets somehow attached to copper windings.
I'd say you could find generic ones on eBay from China that would work out fine.
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centralcoaster33
- Posts: 2769
- Joined: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:41 am
- Car: 240SX #5-1997
- Location: Central Coast, CA
Re: Alternator mounting
They do use induction, so the loop is there, though I'm not sure they have a magnet in them. They're kind of like a metal detector is my understanding.
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Maxcruiser
- Posts: 46
- Joined: Sat May 20, 2017 6:17 pm
- Car: 01 Maxima
Re: Alternator mounting
They are magnets wrapped in copper wire. The copper is wrapped so many turns around the magnet. The pins are feeding signals back to the ECM that controls the ignition.
The shell around the sensor apparently gets old then begins hairline cracks which get worse.
I have approx. 150xxx miles so I'd say all of these cars will have this issue at this mileage!
The shell around the sensor apparently gets old then begins hairline cracks which get worse.
I have approx. 150xxx miles so I'd say all of these cars will have this issue at this mileage!
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