Alternator, Fan Problem and Low Volts...related?

Post by **MrIllegalX** » Sun Jan 16, 2005 7:29 pm

1998 SR20DET S13 Blacktop...installed by a moron

Ok, so my alternator bracket that attaches to the tensioner bolt cracked, so it was losing tension. I jb welded it back on (since you cant weld an alternator) and the squeaking and everything stopped...belt doesn't come off anymore, etc.

Now, it seems that the belt is spinning really slow, or it could be my imagination. It also seems that the fan does not spin at the same RPM as the motor, it stays at a constant ~2,000 RPMS, but I'm not sure. This is causing my engine to get a little too hot for comfort after driving for 15 minutes or so.

The volt meter on my type 0 reads 9-10 volts with the stereo, headlamps and radar detector, and 10 volts with just the headlamps, and an even 11 with nothing on. All my lights are really dim and whenever I put on the bass on my stereo, the car sputters....which makes me think I need a new alternator.

I'm thinking that getting a new alternator will solve all these problems...what do you guys think?

Post by **spider_slayer** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 4:59 pm

its hard to say. my suggestion is to first tighten it up a lottle more and see if that fixes it a little bit. it wouldn't hurt to get a new belt if yours is pretty worn. if this doesn't help before you buy another alt. take it off and have a shop test it to see if its good or not.

Post by **S13CoupeLuvr** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 5:21 pm

I would also say get your alternator tested. My volts usually stay between 13.8 and 14.2 and it did drop down to 12 when I had my alternator problem.

Post by **MrIllegalX** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 8:23 pm

I'm now pretty sure it's the alternator causing this, what else could it be?

Tonight while driving home my turbo timer started flickering on and off and the lights got really dim and the car almost died. I turned off my headlights and drove the rest of the way home ok.

Guessing the alternator isn't generating enough power. How do you test it? multimeter?

Wierd thing is that my temp. gauge stayed bewtween the 3rd-4th bar but when I poped the hood the coolant fluid in the resivor was boiling.

Post by **Nismo_Freak** » Tue Jan 18, 2005 9:01 am

MrIllegalX wrote:I'm now pretty sure it's the alternator causing this, what else could it be?

Tonight while driving home my turbo timer started flickering on and off and the lights got really dim and the car almost died. I turned off my headlights and drove the rest of the way home ok.

Guessing the alternator isn't generating enough power. How do you test it? multimeter?

Wierd thing is that my temp. gauge stayed bewtween the 3rd-4th bar but when I poped the hood the coolant fluid in the resivor was boiling.

Few things.

1. You need a new alternator bracket. I have one if you need it.

2. After number 1 you need to check for proper tension on the belt, if the belt has a very shiney appearance on the inner ribs it is pretty much glazed over and will slip if you don't tighten the hell out of it. I would just suggest replacing it.

3. See if that solves your problem. Keep in mind that the water pump also spins on the same belt, that is a BIG problem. Be glad Nissan desided to overdrive the stock SR pump.

I have a bunch of spare parts... if you need to get another alternator I have one as well. However I don't think you will need one yet.

Post by **kane2g** » Wed Jan 19, 2005 5:52 am

Could be a bad ground?As the motor was installed by a moron its worth checking out.If its not getting good ground, it will do funky things with the electrical system, OH and its a cheap, so no reason not to take a look

but 10-11V is pretty crappy.I would suggest starting the car and removing one of the post off the battery, to see if the car will die.If it does, the alt. isnt putting out enough juice to power the motor. = not good.

Post by **MrIllegalX** » Wed Jan 19, 2005 7:11 pm

I'll check all of those tomorrow, but I went ahead and bought a KA24DE alternator and am going to hopefully slap that on tomorrow. That way it's new, and will solve all the problems, hopefully.

that makes sense that its on the same belt as the water pump...its all clear to me now. I'll let you guys know if it fixes it. Thanks

Post by **spider_slayer** » Wed Jan 19, 2005 10:47 pm

ka alt won't fit with out a little modification to the bracket. the bracket that i belive is broken

Post by **MrIllegalX** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 9:55 am

a DE alt. is the same as the SR except for the pulley and a few minor things. I had to drill the hole for the tension bolt a little bigger.

Problem, how do I get the pulley off? I don't have an impact wrench and I couldn't figure out how to get the pulley to stay while I was wrenching on the pulley bolt.

Post by **chillmieste** » Tue Jan 25, 2005 6:42 am

I just replaced my alternator, i got it from a friend who had a wrecked 96 240sx. He had the ka motor in their. The wierd thing is that it bolted right up with no modification. I read your post about having to chage the pully, but i did not have to. The belt fits nice and tight on it. The only difference that I saw was the plug was on a different side. I also bought a new battery, and the car runs perfect again. Just for reference, how can I check my alternator with a volt or ohm meter?

Post by **MrIllegalX** » Tue Jan 25, 2005 4:21 pm

did anyone have a problem fitting the belt on? DE alt w/ sr pulley...sr belt...doesnt want to fit, too short.