Alright, what is the real replaccement o2 sensor for the rb20?

[zmannz]

I have been researching all the types of o2 sensors out there, and I have been looking for a new one for my rb20 and my ca18det. I found several sources saying that the two are different sensors, same plug but different types of operation. I got the one that everyone has told me to get for the ca18 which is a bosch 13276. It supposedly reads .1-.9 volts I think to tell the ecu what the afr is. The other one I was told about which should be for the rb20 is supposed to read 0-1v I think. The only time I asked what others are the same, I was told the one from an 84 200sx with ca18et, but that one is the same as the 13276. Any ideas on what to order if you are in the US and need a new one? My motor is a redtop rb20 but with ECCS.

[l0nestar]

If you know basic soldering, just use a standard Bosch from an 81 Caprice or Impala. I've used them several times with great success. You just need to solder the signal wire in. I'm not sure about a direct replacement though.

[zmannz]

Word, I can do some wiring. Basically your saying the wires to the connector need to be soldered?

[zmannz]

Further update.... I found the page I was looking for about o2 sensors:

http://members.pcug.org.au/~jdeakins/facts.html

Quoted from there:

"For NTK Oxygen sensors:the first letter refer to the type of sensor - O = Oxygen.the second letter refers to the technology the sensor is based on - T = Titania and Z = Zirconia. The two different technologies are not compatible.the third letter "A" or "D" refers to the thread size "A" = 18 mm thread (needs a 22 mm socket) "D" = 12 mm thread (needs a 17 mm socket)So it looks to me as though the R32 GTR is the only Skyline with Titania sensors.The sensor itself will have a three character code (like D2F) on the sensor and another code on the nut. The code on the nut is the batch number and is not much use to you. The code on the sensor is the important one.

With Titania plugs:Black is Reference (Out)Red is Reference (In) and Heater (+)White is Heater (-)Output is 0 to 1 volts.

With Zirconia plugs:Black is Signal (Out)White is HeaterWhite is HeaterOutput is 0.1 to 0.9 volts.reference: LambdaSensor.com site

Note 1: I had originally said the R33 GTR (and 260RS Stagea) sensors were Titania. Simon from Skylines Australia sorted it all out and gave me the correct information. Apologies for any confusion. Thanks for the feedback Simon. Also, you'll see that the sensor Simon identified is the same one used for the N15 etc. They should be easy to get. If you need a longer lead, NTK have a sensor with the same plug and a 1820mm lead which may be the same sensor. It's part number OZA446-E27, and it is fitted to the 300ZX. If anyone finds out if they're interchangable, let me know.

LambdaSensor.com sell Bosch part number 0 258 003 256 for Zirconia based Skylines. It's apparently intended for the Nissan Micra, but fits the Skyline. They export from the UK to Australia, and can ship a universal Titania sensor for around 70 pounds including shipping.

The Ford EA to EL Falcon uses a sensor which is apparently compatible with some Nissans, although the plug may not be. Its part number is OZA23-D2 so we know it is based on Zirconia. There is an ACA part - ROX207 that apparently also works. If you have fitted one to your Nissan and it works, let me know which engine you have (and its year), whether the cable was long enough, whether the plug was compatible and any comments you have. I'll update the table.

Bosch part number 13385 looks like it might be a contender as an R32 GTR rear O2 sensor replacement. It has a square plug and was fitted to 300ZXs. Its supposed to be compatible with Nissan part number 22690-21P11, which was fitted to the Z31 VG30T engine from April 1987. It's Titania, 17" (430mm) and has the square plug."

So, the original one in my car that wasn't working right was a three wire with red white and black. That sensor was good though, I am sure. I have since bought a turbo from an rb25, and it has an identical sensor with to what came from my car, except that it has two white wires and one black. I know that my motor is pretty old, and the ecu code dictates it actually didn't come from a skyline, plus with it being redtop eccs, I want my stock narrowband to work. I am going to try this one and see what happens.

[l0nestar]

Good Info!

If you are using the 25 oxygen sensor, the black *should* be your signal wire (0-1v). If you use the Bosch part I suggested, this should be what you would solder to. The Bosch part does NOT contain a pre-heater. ($15 vs 80)

[zmannz]

Cool. I will be using the caprice one if it works. I have my wideband set up and wired in, so I will check the operation of the car first with the wideband simulated input and then with the other sensor. Thanks!

[l0nestar]

If you already have a wideband, why are you messing with narrowband? :?:

your wideband does not support narrow output?

[zmannz]

I would like to use my one wideband for tuning on all of my cars. I have another car that will be for track use and the wideband will live there after I get this car right. The way I understand it, the ecu doesn't use the o2 reading until the car is at WOT and the fuel map changes, something like open loop I think its called. So, as long as I have my car tuned correctly I can get the same peformance by returning to using the stock sensor after the tune, it will still run the same.