Alpine XM Radio options

[dareo]

Yeah i got an alpine deck the sorta basic one with V-drive and MP3 and XM readiness. I think its 9830 or something, had for about 6 months and forgot by now...

But the ? is what kind of XM radio stuff is out or coming out soon for this deck? I dont want any extra electronics easily visible, i want my deck to just control the thing like it was designed to do. I've found the T020xm that appears to do what i want but its discontinued or something?

my stereo is in a 240sx if that matters at all.

ps forgive me for not being a major audio nut (i dont even remember my Alpine model number) i just like a good sounding system and leaving it at that.

[ayjay]

i know my buddy had sirius sattelite radio in his integra for a bit, and he had an alpine 7995.. you might wanna look into that system, cost 10 bux/month and had a really cool interface/menu

[dareo]

I'm just too lazy to make/put in MP3 discs, i'd rather just flip through digital radio w/o commecials. But i dont want any of those extra devices on my dash that i have to use to tune it, i want an Alpine one that the deck controlls.

[Silvia2b]

You should wait. The only alpine tuner that is being produced is built in to one of the new headunits this year. The new tuners will be made exculsively by XM radio, they will require an adapter from soundagate, they will be compatible with the new style single connector antenna. You will also be able to control every function directly from the headunit. Check XMradio.co for updates.

[dBDevil]

Alpine was actually one of the first of the aftermarket manufacturers to produce a direct hook-up tuner for XM. I understand that they aren't producing those tuners anymore or are just on hiatus. When I was using my Pioneer DEH-P8000r, I used the Terk XM Commander. I bought a RB-10 AUX input adapter to get the audio hooked up without having to use an FM modulator. AUX input works, but has more potential for noise. Best way to do it is with a direct hook up tuner. Search Ebay and any other detail for the tuner. It'll be hard to find.

[Silvia2b]

The new model for the Pioneer aux input adapter for all the new Pioneer/Premier P bus capable headunits is CDRB20. I am not sure why the tuners evolved from having the two separate antenna inputs, one terrestrial and one satellite connector. The newest model headunit for alpine with the built in chip set for XM Tuning has two antennae one for FM/AM, and the new combined single connector for XM . CDA-9820XM is the model number, it has two pre-amp outputs one of which is a sub control, they are only 2 volts max. The unit will play Mp3, and connect to the Mp3 changer CHA-S634. Mostly this is just a basic lowend headunit, except that it has the XM chip sets, without the need for an external tuner. I have the old style TUA-T020XM. It works great compare to the other Pioneer units I've had problems with. The Pioneer tuners seem to forget that they are subscribed, and only allow preview select channels not the full line up even when service is active and paid in full. They may have fixed this, but I am frustrated with trying to get them working. The customers would return like every week. I keep telling people with alpine headunits to wait for the XM products to be released. They will be much cheaper than the tua-t020xm that you can find at online auctions, but you'll still need the adapters from soundgate.

[morpheus78]

Yeah i got an alpine deck the sorta basic one with V-drive and MP3 and XM readiness. I think its 9830 or something, had for about 6 months and forgot by now...

But the ? is what kind of XM radio stuff is out or coming out soon for this deck? I dont want any extra electronics easily visible, i want my deck to just control the thing like it was designed to do. I've found the T020xm that appears to do what i want but its discontinued or something?

my stereo is in a 240sx if that matters at all.

ps forgive me for not being a major audio nut (i dont even remember my Alpine model number) i just like a good sounding system and leaving it at that.

Your deck in an ALPINE CDA-9833. I have a question for you. When you installed your radio, did you just hook it up to the factory wiring, or did you run thicker wire to the battery?? Some places recommend seperate wireing for the V-Drive Recievers.

[dareo]

I originally used just the dash wiring, but it would shut down at high volume. It needed more power, so i ran a line to the battery like it was an amplifier. Problem solved.

[dBDevil]

The RB20 is just another adapter. It has another P-bus input for something like a changer or XM if you use the RCA in for TV or an MP3 player.

The new model for the Pioneer aux input adapter for all the new Pioneer/Premier P bus capable headunits is CDRB20. I am not sure why the tuners evolved from having the two separate antenna inputs, one terrestrial and one satellite connector. The newest model headunit for alpine with the built in chip set for XM Tuning has two antennae one for FM/AM, and the new combined single connector for XM . CDA-9820XM is the model number, it has two pre-amp outputs one of which is a sub control, they are only 2 volts max. The unit will play Mp3, and connect to the Mp3 changer CHA-S634. Mostly this is just a basic lowend headunit, except that it has the XM chip sets, without the need for an external tuner. I have the old style TUA-T020XM. It works great compare to the other Pioneer units I've had problems with. The Pioneer tuners seem to forget that they are subscribed, and only allow preview select channels not the full line up even when service is active and paid in full. They may have fixed this, but I am frustrated with trying to get them working. The customers would return like every week. I keep telling people with alpine headunits to wait for the XM products to be released. They will be much cheaper than the tua-t020xm that you can find at online auctions, but you'll still need the adapters from soundgate.

[morpheus78]

I originally used just the dash wiring, but it would shut down at high volume. It needed more power, so i ran a line to the battery like it was an amplifier. Problem solved.

What gauge wire did you use and what size fuse?? Did you connect this power wire to the Red Power wire of the unit, or the thicker Yellow wire?? Is this a direct power line to the battery that is constantly powered like an amp, or is it switched (like the factory wire where there is no power unless you turn the key to on)

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to be sure. Thank you

DAVE

[dareo]

I used speaker wire, both leads, soldered it into the middle of my amp's feed then electrical taped it up and sealed the tape with the soldering iron. After doing that and securely bolting the subs and amp down i haven't have one stereo problem. Plays loud, clean and clear.

Technically your supposed to use a fused direct line of about 200-300 watts capacity to the battery, but i didnt happen to have one so i improvised.

[morpheus78]

I used speaker wire, both leads, soldered it into the middle of my amp's feed then electrical taped it up and sealed the tape with the soldering iron. After doing that and securely bolting the subs and amp down i haven't have one stereo problem. Plays loud, clean and clear.

Technically your supposed to use a fused direct line of about 200-300 watts capacity to the battery, but i didnt happen to have one so i improvised.

Cool. I ran my power line yesterday. NO grommets (bleh!!) I had to drill a hole in the bottom of my car and silicone it to seal it. Now I just need to know what im hooking it up to. Am I connecting this power line to the thicker, fused yellow wire from the alpine, or the thinner red power wire from the alpine??

thanx

[dareo]

Its probably the yellow one, i dont remember but it was pretty obvious to me where to put it and it worked first time. It didnt give me any problems to help me remember doing it.

[Silvia2b]

Use the thicker Yellow wire this is the power supply wire. The red wire just provides the accessory turn circuit to the Alpine unit. The reason grommets are a required safety component is that It is possible for the wire insulation to chafe and ground out against the chassis. The grommet would prevent this from happening. Make sure that you also fuse near your connection to the battery. This is to prevent fires from occurring due to electrical shorts. If you are not using the internal amplifier, but using external amps for all channels, connecting this to the battery is unnecessary. I would just connect to the harness in the dash. Have fun!