Almost in the 13's

[98TURBOKA]

O.k. so here it is. I've been going out to the open track night the last couple of weeks, and after about 6 runs I think I'm learning how to drive my car just a little better bit by bit. I'm having problems with my starts. This is the best run that I have had, but I still have room for improvement off the line. Here's the list of my goodies:Millie Miglia 17x8 wheelsPerrilli P7000 tiresN-sport turbo kitmagnacore wiresOptima batteryCusco sway barApexi- Coilovers, turbo timer, AVC-R, Daul n1 exhaustGauges- A/F ratio, Fuel pressure, Boost, EGTSuspension techniques swaybarsEnergy suspension bushing kit300zx VLSD rear end300zx Brake swap (all 4)-no e-brakeClutch master stage 4 clutchJun ligthened flywheelB&M short throw shifterMomo Combat carbon shift knobMomo black leather shift bootFull stereo system w/ Memphis Amps & speakers & Alpine components (11 speakers total)300-400 pounds of stereo sh*t

Running 7psi , and my dyno specs that I have show that I'm pushing 262 rwhp.

R/T .46860' 2.251330 .0001/8 9.240MPH 80.411000 11.8941/4 14.083MPH 103.52

Tried to post the accual slip picture, but had problams.

[ucfz31s13]

Gotta work on that 60ft. Get it down to a 2.0 and you'd probably be in the 13.7-13.8 range...

Nice work.

lataz

z

[98TURBOKA]

Does this seem slow for what I have? Or do you think that I mainly just need to work on the driving part. I know that my starts still need some work.

[GirlRacerS14]

To be honest, it seems a bit slow. When I had my '93 S13 the only mods I had were a Centerforce Dual Friction clutch and a ZEX kit with a 75 shot of nitrous. With that alone I ran consistant 9.3's in the 1/8 mile. So with 7 psi you should be much faster than a 9.24. I have a turbo S14 now @ 11 psi. Hopefully going to the drag strip soon. When I do I'll post results. But then again I have great reaction times! :pface

GR

[98TURBOKA]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by GirlRacerS14 "] But then again I have great reaction times! :pface

Come on now I'm working on it no need for low blows:bash Hopefully it doesn't rain tomorrow and I can get out there again and work on it. The exccesive stereo weight I know doesn't help (maybe for traction) but I want the good package all around. We'll see if I can improve that a bit tomorrow.

[GirlRacerS14]

Come on now I'm working on it no need for low blows:bash

Wasn't a low blow. Just giving you an example of what I had with good reactions on fewer mods. You'll have much better times once you get that reaction all worked out. I worked very hard on my reaction times. You'll get there. Just keep at it.

GR

[TrueSlide]

That type of racing, Iam assuming your not doing bracket. If it is not bracket then the reaction time is not included in your time.

[98TURBOKA]

Just racing the clock. Theres no brackets or anything, they just open the track and let you run it. GirlRacerS14 I took it in good humor, just messing with you.

[240nismo]

the clock doesnt start until you pass the last sensor(usually 12 inches past the last stage sensor), so you could sit there for ten minutes until you're ready

[oi138]

That type of racing, Iam assuming your not doing bracket. If it is not bracket then the reaction time is not included in your time.

Yeah reaction time has nothing to do with anything in test and tune. The clock doesn't start until you pass the line.And actually looking at his timeslip depending on what track he was at. That could have been a redlight (too good of a reaction time).

[Evil98Silvia]

Take all your sterior stuff out and spare tire and so on. See how itll drop your time. If you know anyone with a set of drags try those out so you can jump on it a little harder off the line. Do you have bad lag?

Robbie

[sil80drifter]

what kind of turbo are you using? t3/t4? the stock N-Sport kit one right?

sil80

[98TURBOKA]

Removing all the stereo stuff= big pain in the azz. The spare tire is gone and I fiberglassed my box in the spare tire well. It can be removed but it would be alot of hassel. I do just have the stock turbo that came with the n-sport kit. The lag doesn't seem that bad, but I don't have anything to compare it to.

[WDRacing]

The problem with comparing a 75 shot of N2O and 7 psi of boost is the fact that N2O is a constant no lag 75 hp. With the turbine you fluctuate with every gear change. Plus you usually only get 10 or so hp per psi of boost to the wheels.

When you launch are you slipping the clutch or just dropping it. You should be side stepping it at about 4500 or so. So you get boost but you don't shock the driveline loose and lose traction. This will get considerably harder as your torque and hp levels increase. It just takes practice, you'll get it.

WD

[98TURBOKA]

I've started using my clutch more thats why my times are improving. I'm just looking for that right spot. The last time I got to run I did it at about 3000 rpms and still bogged it a little, I'll step it up to 4,000 and see what she'll do, and on up if needed.

[Projex240]

There something that alot of people forget when they take their street cars to the strip....its a street car. Dont be disappointed if your car doesnt run 12s or 11s. Your car is in street trim, with a suspension designed to handle really well...not to hunker down and hook up. your 60 ft could be better...be even extremely experienced 240 driver dont get a WHOLE lot better than that. Take your front sway bar off, put some slicks on it with a line lock, and then you could dump that clutch at 5 grand and cut a low 13. but its hell on your drivetrain. One more thing....if your feeling bad when your at the strip cuz you got beat...follow the guy out at the end of the night, and when you guys get out on the highway...tear his f'in *** off. That makes me feel much better!:)

[96240inNOVA]

Your rims/tires are killing you. Air up the fronts to the max allowed, and get some 16" rear's with drag radials.

[cow]

You have a VLSD and you can only get a 2.2 60 ft? Practice your launch.. :\

Drag radials are good too. You should be able to get a 1.9 or so (on street tires).. aka, deep in 13's.

[gibbo80]

Ya it seems you need to work on your 60ft. My friend in his teg with intake and exhaust (91 ls) was cutting 2.2 on bald tires. Try to feather the clutch, put it in the power band and leave it. It should look like you are leaving the line really slowly. AWD people do this alot to save drive train shock. YOu will get it. I wouldnt work to much on your reaction time to get it lower at our track a .5 is perfect so you would be redlighting. Good luck

[Evil98Silvia]

Feather the clutch in the powerband? Have a clutch ready at the end of the track. You dont feather any clutch on 300hp in the powerband. You do that to much and your clutch will literally start to smoke. Please explain this because i grew up at the track and never heard of that.

Robbie

[SingleCamSam]

Not if you bought the proper clutch for your application.

[cow]

Much easier to buy a pair of drag radials huh? :PFeathering a clutch at torque peak will still wear it down preeetty fast even if it is the proper clutch.. and if it's a sprung clutch you can't feather it.

[keepingthe240]

Just racing the clock. Theres no brackets or anything, they just open the track and let you run it. GirlRacerS14 I took it in good humor, just messing with you.

What track do you race at???

[WDRacing]

Some slipping (feathering) should be done on the launch. Or else you shock the driveline out of traction. You can always just change out your friction plate rather then the entire clutch. So it isn't very expensive.

WD

[C-Kwik]

Wasn't a low blow. Just giving you an example of what I had with good reactions on fewer mods. You'll have much better times once you get that reaction all worked out. I worked very hard on my reaction times. You'll get there. Just keep at it.

GR

Reaction time has nothing to do with the overall time. The reaction time is the time between then the light turns green ant the moment you leave the staging beams. The actual 1/4 mile time starts when yur car actually leaves the staging beam. sO in other words, you can let the light turn green and sit there. the clock won't start. Your reaction time will suck, but the 1/4 mile time will start as soon as the car gets going.

As far as 0.468 being a bad time, it depends. Some tracks set a perfect reaction time as 0.000 and some at 0.500. 0.468 on a 0.500 tree is pretty good. In eliminations, you would lose since you broke out, but it's close to 0.500. And if you don't break out slightly every once in a while, you're not trying to get a perfect reaction time.

Generally, you want to start to move about when the last yellow light turns on. By the time you drop the clutch and you car gets through the beams, the green light should be coming on.

[keepingthe240]

A perfect light is either.40 or .50 depending on the track. KCIR (50 miles east of topeka, KS)had a 0.4 light until a few yrs ago. Motorhead is offering $50k if you can run a perfect light and hit you dial in.98turbo....i have a book on drag racing....you interested in buying it.......i work over in kansas on tues-sat. $10.00

[C-Kwik]

0.400 lights are pro lights. Basically the kind you see Top Fuel cars run with. Basically one yellow light that occurs 0.400 seconds before the green. Here's a good visual of a pro tree...

http://www.sh3d.com/protree.html

And here is a Sportsman Tree(0.500):

http://www.sh3d.com/ss/sporttree.html