Almost done putting my engine back together :)

Post by **Justin35ll** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 4:35 pm

Got a nice size package in the mail the other day. I got my fmic, radator/fans/hoses, and arp headstuds and had plenty more stuff laying around my room (RAS, st 3 clutch, SS clutch line, SS brake lines, etc)

So now that I got the studs I figurd it was finally time to put the engine back together, but putting the head on by myself SUCKED never do it! Especially if u have studs you'll have to line up with the head holes

Are my stainless line set up correctly? I think they are, but it just seems hard to get the one coolant line into the block with the straight fitting.

Greddy RAS installed

TimingAfter I move the crank a tiny bit the chain tightens up and hits the chain guide. It doesn't sit against it; it just initially hits it then backs off to where it looks in the picture. Is that okay? I hear people talking about how their guide is noisy when they first start up.

Post by **jr_ss** » Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:14 pm

Everyone removes that top guide for a reason. Looks good, next time put 2 studs in and set your head down on it, or better yet, don't put any in it and line the holes up that way.

Post by **Sabot** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 1:49 am

I hear ya...I did both my s13 and s14 by myself and it kinda sucked but now I'm somewhat of a master

Post by **positron1** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 3:04 am

Turbo lines look right, don't forget the teflon tape and don't forget to tighten the lines up when you install the manifold to the block. I forgot to tighten the water line and it was leaking like a faucet when I started the engine. Kudos to you on the head removal.

Post by **japslapsilvia** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:19 am

positron_ wrote:Turbo lines look right, don't forget the teflon tape and don't forget to tighten the lines up when you install the manifold to the block. I forgot to tighten the water line and it was leaking like a faucet when I started the engine. Kudos to you on the head removal.

NO. do NOT use Teflon for the Turbo lines, on the turbo side they use a "crush" washer, and the other end uses the flare to seal.

Oh and why would you put the head on with the stud installed?? the dowel pins on the block help to postion the head THEN install the studs....

Post by **Sil80315** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 9:58 am

japslapsilvia wrote:
Oh and why would you put the head on with the stud installed?? the dowel pins on the block help to postion the head THEN install the studs....

+1 Yeah its ten times easier to install the studs after lol

Post by **Justin35ll** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 11:59 am

Yeah, idk why I did it that way I guess just cause thats the first way I learned while doing the same type of thing on a race porsche at work, but whatever it's done and over with.

I didn't really like the way the chain was so I'm trying to redo it right now see if I can get it any better.

And why not use teflon tape? I've seen a lot of threads where people use it. I didn't pack it on there just one wrap around the threads that's it.I thought those lines would be easy to install, but they suck I don't like them I don't know how tight to make the swivle part on it I feel like if I keep tightening them they're gonna strip out.. Any input on tightening these things?

Oh yeah and posi did you take your head off when you rebuild your sr? I remember seeing in your thread you got the cometic gasket, but then I don't remember ever seeing you install it

Post by **positron1** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:20 pm

Don't overtighten the turbo lines on the block, when I had a the oil and water leaks, it didn't take but a couple turns of the wrench to completely seal them up so you may want to wait before you turn them too much. I chicken littled out on taking the head off. Kinda wish I had attempted it now. Props to you and the other fellas' who did though!

Post by **japslapsilvia** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:31 pm

Justin35ll wrote:And why not use teflon tape? I've seen a lot of threads where people use it. I didn't pack it on there just one wrap around the threads that's it.I thought those lines would be easy to install, but they suck I don't like them I don't know how tight to make the swivle part on it I feel like if I keep tightening them they're gonna strip out.. Any input on tightening these things?

Teflon tape if for Tapered Threads ONLY. not for Straight. on your set-up there are no tapered threadswater lines are metric and oil is 7/16-24 Inverted Flare.

The metric fittings have a "crush" washer to seal. the "AN" lines seal b/c of the Flare. the oil fitting also has a flare that seals it. if you were to use the teflon on the flared fittings, it will leak b/c the flare will not seat and there is no taper in the threads for the teflon to work correctly.

also DO NOT over tighten them. "AN" fitting have special AN wrenches that are shorter to prevent over tighning. snug them up for now. then check for leaks, if there are tighten up a little more.

Also if there is damage to the Flared portion of the fitting (IE small scratches etc) put a dap or motor oil on it when assembling.

Post by **positron1** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:34 pm

Japslap...what's up bro'?

Post by **japslapsilvia** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:41 pm

positron_ wrote:Japslap...what's up bro'?

CHILLING

CONGRATS on finally getting yours up and running!!!

Post by **positron1** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:43 pm

Thanks man, appreciated your help too!

Post by **japslapsilvia** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:48 pm

positron_ wrote:Thanks man, appreciated your help too!

no problem at all

here is a link to my current build on a local forum...dunno if i can post a link but here goes....hopefully it wont get deleted....http://dfwnissan.net/index.php?showtopic=305

Post by **positron1** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:51 pm

I'm checking it out now, very cool! Wasn't that the R33 bumper you had on there? I wanted one before I stuck with the OEM look too.

Post by **japslapsilvia** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 12:59 pm

positron_ wrote:I'm checking it out now, very cool! Wasn't that the R33 bumper you had on there? I wanted one before I stuck with the OEM look too.

yea i still have a NEW one that they sent b/c the one in the pic was damaged.....OEM was far better though......but i got a little bored which is why i switched to the Origin.

Post by **Justin35ll** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 6:22 pm

Just checked out your thread, seems like you know a lot about the stainless lines lol you got them everywhere. I'll have to agree with you and thanks for the help.

Also just got done putting my intake side back together and I have an extra bolt again it's a small one a little longer then a cm in length and 12mm head so prob a mounting bolt somewhere can't find where it goes though

Should I remove the chain guide?? I don't know what to do I havn't sealed my cam cover down yet and I don't want to it be loud when I start it up, but then again I don't want to take it out and input?

Post by **Justin35ll** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 6:32 pm

And fuk I just took off the swivel part from one of the turbo side coolant lines and now I see how it works should have realized this before

It has some scratches around the flare seating areas I hope it's not a problem......

edit- hears some updated pics by the way. I took the teflon off and reinstalled the lines snug. Used a dab of oil on the one that was minorly scratched inside. I feel more confident about the lines now, thanks

And one of the mystery bolt - will find out where it goes tomorrow.. hopefully
Modified by Justin35ll at 9:06 PM 1/8/2009

Post by **Sil80315** » Thu Jan 08, 2009 10:14 pm

uhh another reason to not use Teflon tape on the turbo side of the fitting is because they will freakin melt. do you know how hot that turbo gets?

Post by **japslapsilvia** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 3:58 am

that "mystery" bolt doesnt appear to be anything special. in fact it looks like the ones found on the back of the head. for eithor the coolant bracket, or the ground.

as for the chain guide, it really doesnt matter, apparently Nissan didnt include them in the newer SR's, BUT they are included in timing chain kits. personally i dont have it, and i dont see a problem with them, i assume the noise that occurs is a result of low initial oil pressure on the chain tensioner causing the chain to "slap" the guide.

Post by **CoupedUp** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 4:14 am

I would die laughing...

Post by **Justin35ll** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:59 am

Nope doens't go there I checked that specifcally last night cause it looks like it would be that bolt. Maybe it's a bolt for the other bracket on the rear I'll check in a little

Post by **Sil80315** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 9:04 am

looks like a 12mm bolt.. like 80% of the bolts on the outside are 12mm that hold .Grounds.intake manifold,coolant pipe bracket ect also the 2 bolts that hold the oil return fitting on the bottom of the turbo are also 12mm

Post by **Justin35ll** » Fri Jan 09, 2009 11:30 am

Yeah I'll just have to keep looking cause I don't see it.Engine is basically done though I got the valve cover on, power steering pump, exhaust manifold/turbo/lines onOne of the exhaust mani studs snapped on me though while installing inside the block grr. My enigne was also missing one when I got it so I just ordered a new stud so I can put it in the spot where I was originally missing one and if I can come across a tool to get out the broken stud I will try

Things I still need to do:- Front main seal- Torque flywheel bolts and install clutch and transmission- Replace oil filter and oil (any help on the filter? What is it equivalant to?)- Fuel filter (300zx right?)- Replace a few misc. lines- Buy engine mounts and downpipe- Get inspected with KA

Modified by Justin35ll at 1:48 PM 1/9/2009
Modified by Justin35ll at 8:01 PM 1/9/2009

Almost done putting my engine back together :)

Almost done putting my engine back together :)

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