Let me explain the situation. Whenever I start the car the idle jumps right up to between 3500-4000. It sits there for about 4-5 seconds and then drops down and dies if I don't give it a little throttle. Here's another problem, whenever I give it a little gas so it doesn't die, it tends to surge. Say it's down at 1000 RPM and blip the throttle to go 1500-2000. I rev it to 2000 or so and when I take my foot off the gas the RPM surges to 2500 RPM all by itself. A few things are still wrong with the car. For one, there's water in my oil, so I know I either have a blown head gasket or a cracked block for which im going to use Steel Seal on to fix. My second problem is that the distributor is all mistimed from when I moved it to my new block. It's not timed perfectly, but it's timed to the point that it will run. My third problem is that a few vacuum lines are still open and I know one of the valves is responsible for idle and such.
So between those three causes, water in my oil, mistiming, and open vacuum lines, which do you guys think is responsible for the behavior I described above? I really need an answer so I can finally get it running on the streets again.
Thanks,Steven
Almost completed engine swap, need a little more help from you guys.
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StuntingShaggy
- Posts: 75
- Joined: Tue Sep 19, 2006 2:25 pm
- Car: 1991 240sx
Re: Almost completed engine swap, need a little ... (StuntingShaggy)
ALL of the above
Stop there pull the motor where it is easier to work on.
DO NOT put anything through the cooling system aside from coolant!!!
I have rebuilt too many motors where the owners thought that was a fix--it is for emergency situations when you can not afford a tow truck--in which case use a Egg--just as effective.
If you have water in the oil then you have a serious problem that needs to be corrected. water in the oil will F@$k your bearings faster than you can blip the throttle--
Stop there pull the motor where it is easier to work on.
DO NOT put anything through the cooling system aside from coolant!!!
I have rebuilt too many motors where the owners thought that was a fix--it is for emergency situations when you can not afford a tow truck--in which case use a Egg--just as effective.
If you have water in the oil then you have a serious problem that needs to be corrected. water in the oil will F@$k your bearings faster than you can blip the throttle--
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StuntingShaggy
- Posts: 75
- Joined: Tue Sep 19, 2006 2:25 pm
- Car: 1991 240sx
Re: Almost completed engine swap, need a little ... (rotorimp)
Well unfortunately it's been started and run several times after I discovered water in it. It couldn't have been damaged that bad from a few minutes of running.
Also about this steel seal stuff, it's not like all the other products. It's a new thing. Most of the other products on the market are all particle and flake based, whereas this isn't. This stuff is the consistency of oil and it's a whole new formula that i've talked to a few people about already. Two of them have been running their cars on it for more than half a decade already, and there's no water in the oil, so I have reason to believe that it should work.
Also about this steel seal stuff, it's not like all the other products. It's a new thing. Most of the other products on the market are all particle and flake based, whereas this isn't. This stuff is the consistency of oil and it's a whole new formula that i've talked to a few people about already. Two of them have been running their cars on it for more than half a decade already, and there's no water in the oil, so I have reason to believe that it should work.