All those who can spare some help...

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
CA18 RS13
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... I am in need of it. On the way to class today my car decided it had had enough and proceded to stop working. It just kind of studdered then gave up leaving me to roll helplessly into the left turn lane. I tried my best to revive it but nothing seemed to yeild any possible results. I got it started twice after it died, it reved smoothly and normally but then died without warning when the rpm dropped below 2000rpm. I don't even know where to start diagnosing this thing, there is all sorts of things clicking going on. When the key is in acc position the fuel relay clicks every once in a while, the 4th injector sounds like it is flowing fuel, the headlight relay is clicking... got to go to class, post more later


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slw240sx
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Car: 1990 Ca18det 240sx Hatch

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isnt is amazing we both have similar symtpoms, and now both our cars arnt drivable, i hope one of us figures this out veryvery soon!!

nlzmo400r
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Joined: Wed Feb 12, 2003 12:23 pm
Car: '02 Nissan Altima QR25DE
'93 Nissan 240SX hatch KA24DE

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clogged injectors or fuel pump/rail/lines?? no genius, just trying to help a lil bit

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slw240sx
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Car: 1990 Ca18det 240sx Hatch

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yeah all that im goin to check when i get my 450cc injectors and SAFC put in, might be a bad FPR over fueling, cause i am pretty rich and i got to take all the plugs out regap and clean them . but i got stuff to do today so i may haev to take tomorrow off or sumthin to spend a whole day with a volt meter and really tear into this thing again!

CA18 RS13
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one more thing, i could very easily twist injector number 4 just by pulling on the harness... this should be a problem right? The thing is, if it was leaking or clogged then wouldnt it cause drivability problems? Aside from my ruff idle recently and cold start problems the car has been driving fine (anytime the ECU is not in closed loop).

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slw240sx
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Car: 1990 Ca18det 240sx Hatch

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mine do that too, tried replacin the coolant temp sensor?,

nlzmo400r
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'93 Nissan 240SX hatch KA24DE

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yea it would cause drivability problems if it was clogged, it would sputter like hell and keep dying, o and CA18RS13 AWESOME car!! love the color, ok, im done now

CA18 RS13
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more accurate symptoms:with the key in the accessory position:- a constant hiss comes from the fuel rail area, but is interupted and emits an electronic clicking noise every few seconds and then continues to hiss. This cycle repeats indefinatly.- the fuel pump itself can be heard working and also studders when the fuel rail itself makes that clicking noise- I removed all the injector harnesses and it does not affect the hissing noise, going one step further i removed most electrical harnesses from the intake manifold but nothing made any difference- removing the fuel pump relay causes the hissing to stop as does removing the fuel pump harness (obviously)- if left hissing for a while it starts to smell very strongly of fuel- "headlight ref" relay emits a speratic clicking noise very regularly (at least once every 2 seconds), at non-regular rates- voltage reading from the battery is at 11.70 with the fuel pump relay removed, 11.27-11.30 when it is in. removing the headlight ref relay does not affect voltage- rarely the fuel pump will make a clunking noise- the check engine light will blink spiratically in short rapid pulses

i am assuming that the hissing noise is fuel attempting to flow, so how is fuel allowed to flow if there is no electrical signal telling it to? any ideas? the next step i suppose is to pull ECU codes, which I have never done before so don't really know how to.

stoops417
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Joined: Mon Dec 09, 2002 4:42 pm
Car: FB

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just a thought but if you hear a hissing noise accompanied by a strong fuel smell... it sounds like you have a fuel leak under your hood... this would cut down on fuel pressure and therefore cause a "sputtering" and dying problem...

not a for sure thing but its a thought...

CA18 RS13
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well its not strong per say, but it is definately noticable. Also a fuel leak would still not explain all the electonical craziness thats going on.

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slw240sx
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ca18rs, the fuel pump activates for around 5sec when the key is turned on. this primes the rail and allows easyier cold start ! that way you dont have to hold the key on start to get the fuel into the rail. mine doesnt even have and engine light! , also checking codes is freakin simple , take ecu, while car is running turn screw clock wise, lights will go blink blink, blink blink blink, then turn all the way counter clock wise and it will do nothing for a secon then it will blink the lights first the left light blinks count that number then the right light count the number that will be teh fault code referance to the FSM to find problemn, i get 3,4 34 det sensor!

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slw240sx
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also do you have a charcol canister, ? if not the fuel tank prob vents into the bay via a hose that used to bee hooked up by the hard lines for the clutch and brake on the passenger side towards the area of the fire wall that goes under the car! that will produce fuel fumes since tha tank is venting pressure through it

CA18 RS13
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yes i do still have my charcol canister attached

boost_boy
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Intermittent interruptions in the relays is an electrical issue or even a bad fuel pump relay or even a bad CAS.

Bob_ea_ca18sx
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Hey I just joined NICO and I am having similar problems. My fuel pump relay is clicking off and on at random times. The coil feed for the relay is a black w/pink stripe and it is controlled directly from the ecu. for some reason the ecu is telling it to turn on and off. It is a negative triggered feed so technically you can ground it and it will stay on. did that and the fuel pump relay stays on but same problem. check engine light flickers simutaneously with the relay click and also the l.e.d's on the ecu(So I can't run diagnosis b/c everytime it does that it interupts my diagnosis sequence and I can never finish to see what is bad). Its like the car is trying to turn off and on quickly. I don't know if the ecu is bad or if a sensor is bad and telling the ecu to do these things. If anyone has any suggestions please let me know. Thanks

NeedCAforS13
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awesome use of the search function:) you are my favorite person of the day!

unfortunatly I'm have no idea what your problem is, I just figured I'd welcome you to our little club:D

Sean

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float_6969
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This sounds like ECU problems to me guys. I'd start by pulling codes first.

boost_boy
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Quote »This sounds like ECU problems to me guys. I'd start by pulling codes first.[/quote] The "Drunken Moderator" is right again. Just like NeedCA said, excellent use of the search button, but I would pull the codes off the ecu. How do you do that you ask? Use the same search button because we recetly covered that for the um-teenth millonth time. Wait, I need to get my @$$ back in bed, it's 4:08 A.M.

Dee

Bob_ea_ca18sx
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Joined: Wed Jun 09, 2004 3:57 pm

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I can't pull the codes because when the relay clicks and all that happens the ecu lights are flickering. almost like its loosing power, it won't quit flickering long enough to show a code. I did squeeze a sequence in once or twice but it showed code 55 which I think is no problems. But if its loosing power then its resetting itself before I can get a false code. I even tried taking all the power inputs straight to the battery with a switch on it but no change. This is driving me crazy I feel like selling the car as is but I don't really want to. I've put probably 20 to 30 hours in trying t fix this problemThanks

Bob_ea_ca18sx
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Joined: Wed Jun 09, 2004 3:57 pm

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oh yea in case this helps. Its also sputtering out a low RPM's but if you feather the gas it will finally pick up and run great. But driving in town, you might as well forget it. It feels and sounds like its running rich when it does this but my gauge drops all the way off the lean side. either it is lean or the 02 sensor is loosing power all together. I checked all the grounds and I don't think its a ground problem.I hope this helps.


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