All KINDS of weirdness (Hodge Twins voice)

[Mr. White]

OKay, hey everyone. I tried posting this stuff on a local forum for feed back. but, I haven't gotten because it's either kind of dead or they just don't know.

So, i've recently been having some weird s*** going on with my car that I haven't had happen before. First off, a little bit about my setup: hybrid Sr20det (S14 head on S13 block). S15 turbo, Power FC, BOV on cold side.

I first started noticing that I have this whistle noise when ever my car is entering boost a few months ago. It had a really nasty backfire and I would get no power at around 3000-3500 and below at partial throttle. My piping was pretty s***, so I replaced it with a new piping kit. Whenever I replaced the kit, the car would idle at 1800rpms and wouldn't come down unless you unplugged the IACV and replugged it back up. Even to this day, the car will warm up to about 66 degrees Celsius and then the idle will shoot up to around 1500. But, it will come down after warming up. the piping did not help the loss in power or the whistle, but the backfiring seems to be more under control.

Now, more recently, I drove the car from school to my house (about a three hour drive) let it sit for a few days (before the initial drive up to school, I changed the oil in the car.) when I started it up I noticed a slight ticking noise. It would raise when I pressed the gas, and when the car warmed up, it was gone. If I turn the car off and then back on, the noise will come back for a minute or two and then disappear.

On my way home last Saturday (my apartment at school) it died coming to a stop at an intersection. it wouldn't start back up if cranked it, it would just die again. It randomly started again after 10minutes of sitting at the light and I got it home with no issues.

Yesterday, it was raining and wet. I think I left the hood pin unlocked. So, I closed it and let the car warm up. when I got it to operating temp and tried to drive it, it would stutter really bad around 2000-3000rpm, but it would idle fine and rev in neutral fine. I took it back home and turned it off. Here I am trying to find out what the hell is wrong with my car, because I am stumped to all hell and need to get this thing back to my hometown as break is coming up. Please??

[Razi]

Do you have a boost/vacuum gauge? What's your vacuum at idle?
It should be around and below -20psi at idle.

Is your Power FC tuned to handle a BOV that vents to atmosphere? If the BOV isn't recirced, you usually run into those sort of problems.

[Mr. White]

The ticking noise went away. I checked my Vac at idle and it reads -30psi :/....

I looked over the bay and didn't see anything loose.

when I bought the car, it had a blow-thru setup which I switched back over to a normal more popular one (forget what it's called). that was around 8months ago. The still hesitates really bad when I try to drive it. It seems like it starts whenever I enter boost.

Not sure what is going on.

[compactfean]

First have you done a boost leak test. Buy one or make your own tester and find/fix all leaks. (and don't say there weren't any because I can asure you you will find some)

What harness and ecu and maf are you using?
What do the coils ohm out to?
Have you done a fuel pressure test under load?

[Mr. White]

First have you done a boost leak test. Buy one or make your own tester and find/fix all leaks. (and don't say there weren't any because I can asure you you will find some)

What harness and ecu and maf are you using?
What do the coils ohm out to?
Have you done a fuel pressure test under load?

Sorry, for replying so late. I haven't done a Leak test because I don't have a compressor and it's very hard for me to do such things because of my complex owner.

I have a Z32 MAF with an S14 KOUKI harness.

A few days after this though, my car would crank up and Die. I have a power FC that shows what the AIR FLOW is and it usually is at 480mV. it was at zero. I though the MAF was dead so I got my spare one that I knew worked and the voltage fluctate very bad on that one. it never goes above 120mV and will go from there to zero. I think it is a wiring issue. any thoughts?

[Jmoore124]

Blow through setups are sometimes known to chew up maf sensors. Check the voltage. Should be like .5v with key on, 1.4 ish at idle (if my memory serves me right. I would start there, it should be a steady voltage that increases as rpm increases. Did you change your fuel map when switching your MAF setup? Sometimes that can affect the MAF signal and require you to slightly alter your map.

[Mr. White]

My BOV is on the Cold side, but my MAF is in the standard location before the turbo. It was blow-thru, but it switch because the pipe that I used for blow through was leaking.

So, I switched them and the car was running like for about 4 months until theses issues with hesitation and what not. I did switch the Fuel map, but it was before I switched from blow-thru. The power wire to the MAF gets about 11.85v. but, I read that the white wire is supposed to show some as well. I will check that tonight.