I just put on some Tein S-Tech & KYB AGX. I went to get my car aligned and they said they could not fully align the car because it had been lowered. The passenger front tire is not completely correct. They said it wouldn't make too huge of a difference because its not off by much.
I guess I need to buy adjustable TC Rods so they can fully adjust it and also some kind of screws that go into the strut that will help adjust it as well. They werent really clear on what it was because they wanted me just to buy it from them but I'm sure I can find it cheaper on the internet.
A few of my friends said there is that problem when you lower your car but most people just leave it. But... I'm not one to say "eh, its good enough." Does anyone know what parts the alignment shop is talking about?
Alignment
Re: Alignment (otterman)
Umm never go back to that alignment shop. They don't know what the **** they are talking about. Screws that go into the strut? Ehhh?
You mentioned TC rods. You mean the front tension rods? Aftermarket tension rods will allow you to adjust castor, because it is not adjustable with stock stuff. However, it should be relatively close on both sides anyways, so no need for aftermarket rods unless you want more castor.
TOE SETTINGS: Your car is not that low. Springs don't lower your car very much. It will still be possible to align front and rear toe to stock settings without a problem, unless your frame is tweaked.
CAMBER SETTINGS:Since you don't have coilovers with adjustable pillowball upper mounts, front camber will not be adjustable for you. It should be relatively even on both sides though, and won't be too extreme considering the small drop that your car has. Rear camber increases significantly with every inch of lowering, but stock rear upper control arms have plenty of adjustment for this as well, as long as you aren't on coilovers. You might not be able to run as little rear camber as stock (like .5 degrees), but stock camber sucks anyway. Most people run like -1.5 to -2 degrees of rear camber for good cornering grip.
You mentioned TC rods. You mean the front tension rods? Aftermarket tension rods will allow you to adjust castor, because it is not adjustable with stock stuff. However, it should be relatively close on both sides anyways, so no need for aftermarket rods unless you want more castor.
TOE SETTINGS: Your car is not that low. Springs don't lower your car very much. It will still be possible to align front and rear toe to stock settings without a problem, unless your frame is tweaked.
CAMBER SETTINGS:Since you don't have coilovers with adjustable pillowball upper mounts, front camber will not be adjustable for you. It should be relatively even on both sides though, and won't be too extreme considering the small drop that your car has. Rear camber increases significantly with every inch of lowering, but stock rear upper control arms have plenty of adjustment for this as well, as long as you aren't on coilovers. You might not be able to run as little rear camber as stock (like .5 degrees), but stock camber sucks anyway. Most people run like -1.5 to -2 degrees of rear camber for good cornering grip.
-
positron1
- Posts: 3609
- Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2005 12:29 am
- Car: Project: 1993 Nissan 240SX Coupe SR
Daily: 2010 Honda Civic Coupe - Location: Starkville, MS.
Re: Alignment (naed240sx)
[QUOTE=naed240sx]Umm never go back to that alignment shop. They don't know what the **** they are talking about. Screws that go into the strut? Ehhh?
LOL!!!!
LOL!!!!
Re: Alignment (positronone)
I think the shop is talking about camber bolts that replaces one of the bolts so that you have some camber adjustment. The problem with these products is that they're only a band-aid solution to the problem.
One such product would be H & R Triple C.
One such product would be H & R Triple C.