Alignment question

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bullittandy
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I just got my other car (1994 Caprice wagon) aligned by local Goodyear Gemini shop and the "after" measurements have "modified specification" next to the car model. It appears that the tolerances are "looser" ie camber was (before) -0.8 on driver side and "red" and after is -0.9 and in "green."

Did I get cheated? What does that term mean?



Q45tech
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Alignment numbers are numbers created by engineers to correct the tire at speed. Misalignment sitting still which will change under thrust loads.

Oem alignment numbers assume as brand new rubber in all bushings and oem tires.

Things get very imaginary after a vehicle has 100k or 6 years of use.

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bullittandy
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Let me be specific, most the specs are the same, caster and camber didnt change much, mostly toe changed. It looks like they changed specs after changing toe to make it appear in alignment. For example: -0.8 left camber was "red" or out of spec on initial alignment sheet and then same tire was -0.9 and in the "green" or within spec.

Do I need to go back and say "get it closer"? 1994 Caprice wagon with an LT1 and 106K on clock, new shocks and new tires all other components original.

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elwesso
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a tenth of a degree difference isnt going to matter... You're good, IMO.. The important part is that theyre close to the same on either side and a little negative. Especially on a car like a caprice where maximum handling performance isnt really that necessary compared to say a sports car..

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Suspension have a camber curve that goes more negative as the body rises and falls from standard ride height to attempt to compensate for the tire deforming underload where it creates a POSITIVE camber ..............ideally the negative preset plus the camber gain curve cancel out the tire positiveness to achieve a near zero camber.

Obviously a heavy driver will depress the driverside body SO the real driving camber will be different from the UNLOADED alignment preset.

Usually each inch of ride height difference is ~~ 0.8 degrees of camber difference.

Most vehicles have roughly 250-300 lbs of spring stiffness per side, so 300 pounds in drivers seat will be divided front and rear so 1/2" body drop and an extra -0.4 degrees of negative camber on driverside.

Important to have alignments done as you would drive with your weight equivalent in drivers seat if you drive alone. OTHERWISE

As you can see different loads will create different cambers on different sides.

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Infinitiguy19
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Q45tech wrote:Important to have alignments done as you would drive with your weight equivalent in drivers seat if you drive alone. OTHERWISE

As you can see different loads will create different cambers on different sides.
Does this apply to the Q45a or any other adjustable suspension?

mista808
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bullittandy wrote:I just got my other car (1994 Caprice wagon) aligned by local Goodyear Gemini shop and the "after" measurements have "modified specification" next to the car model. It appears that the tolerances are "looser" ie camber was (before) -0.8 on driver side and "red" and after is -0.9 and in "green."

Did I get cheated? What does that term mean?
If it says "modified specifications" that means, the guy doing the alignment didn't want to adjust something so he manually adjusted the specs.... how can I explain this.... let's say left camber spec is. -0.7* with a tolerance of +/- .5* so and where from -0.2* thru -1.2* is still in spec.... now let's say your car rolls on the rack with a -1.8* camber which is out of spec or in the red. Without touching 1 wrench I can go on the alignment computer, punch a few buttons and make that -1.8* in the green by either making a new camber spec, or widening the tolerance... you get it?

In other words, I'm guessing the mechanic saw that from right to left, the actualy alignment numbers were even from left to right, but numbers were in the red, so he altered the specs for it to be green, probabaly only adjusted toe, got paid 10% of the actual alignment cost, and called it a day...

If any alignment sheet read out has a "modified specification" typed on it, the guy plugged in new numbers, or in other words, you got cheated.... ill admit, I've don't it a few tims, but only for cars that do not have camber or caster or toe adjustments... anything else that can be adjusted either stock of aftermarket tools, ill adjust it....

And its not hard at all to adjust camber/caster on a b-body impala/caprice, its only shims.. what's sad too is I work at a goodyear gemini here in hawaii.... you should call goodyears hotline....

mista808
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You can bring your car back and have then redo the alignment. Point out to them the modified specification, and how it is still in the red...

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bullittandy
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mista808 wrote:
If it says "modified specifications" that means, the guy doing the alignment didn't want to adjust something so he manually adjusted the specs.... how can I explain this.... let's say left camber spec is. -0.7* with a tolerance of +/- .5* so and where from -0.2* thru -1.2* is still in spec.... now let's say your car rolls on the rack with a -1.8* camber which is out of spec or in the red. Without touching 1 wrench I can go on the alignment computer, punch a few buttons and make that -1.8* in the green by either making a new camber spec, or widening the tolerance... you get it?

In other words, I'm guessing the mechanic saw that from right to left, the actualy alignment numbers were even from left to right, but numbers were in the red, so he altered the specs for it to be green, probabaly only adjusted toe, got paid 10% of the actual alignment cost, and called it a day...

If any alignment sheet read out has a "modified specification" typed on it, the guy plugged in new numbers, or in other words, you got cheated.... ill admit, I've don't it a few tims, but only for cars that do not have camber or caster or toe adjustments... anything else that can be adjusted either stock of aftermarket tools, ill adjust it....

And its not hard at all to adjust camber/caster on a b-body impala/caprice, its only shims.. what's sad too is I work at a goodyear gemini here in hawaii.... you should call goodyears hotline....
Thank you very much, you answered my question perfectly! I figured they just didn't want to break into the control arms/shims. I will call Goodyear and then the shop and see what happens.

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Nice car. I've always liked the late LT1 powered B-body cars. I'd love a Fleetwood Brougham.

mista808
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bullittandy wrote:
Thank you very much, you answered my question perfectly! I figured they just didn't want to break into the control arms/shims. I will call Goodyear and then the shop and see what happens.
Ha, I can see it already. The shop is gonna ask you why you didn't call them first before headquarters to try and resolve the situation... going to headquarters first is gonna stir up a lot of poop... but good for them. Goodluck with that though...


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