Alignment didn't work. Still shakes and pulls to the right

[RightRyan]

So I just paid $50 for an alignment on my 1994 300zx TT and the car and steering wheel still shakes and the car still pulls to the right like before. It's just as bad, if not worse than before I had it aligned. I'm looking for a list of things to check and/or replace if needed. How to's on how to check each part to see if a replacement is needed would be awesome as well.

[Ace2cool]

Did you get a 4 wheel alignment? Are you sure that HICAS is in good working order? No bulges is the tires? Mine had similar symptoms when I first purchased it, and it turned out to be overinflated tires that made a bulge, coupled with a failing HICAS system.

[Shoey2]

So I just paid $50 for an alignment on my 1994 300zx TT and the car and steering wheel still shakes and the car still pulls to the right like before. It's just as bad, if not worse than before I had it aligned. I'm looking for a list of things to check and/or replace if needed. How to's on how to check each part to see if a replacement is needed would be awesome as well.

did they give you a before and after print out of the cars specs? if so, post them here and we can tell you if its set up properly. every time i do an alignment i do a before and after print out so you can show the customer what was adjusted and how it will correct their complaint, it also proves you actually did something. 50 bucks sounds a bit cheap for an alignment so im a but skeptical to start with, most dealers will charge you a bit over a hundred for an alignment maybe more depending on how tight things are and how far out of spec it it is. i would recommend balancing all 4 tires assuming they are in good shape and don't need to be replaced and that will take care of the shake.
also can you give us more info on the pull? what lane are you in when you feel it? how hard does it pull? how far do you have to turn the wheel to make it drive straight?
it could be from a bad belt in the tire or the camber being out out of spec. but like i said before, more info the better.

EDIT: also what Ace said, if the HICAS is malfunctioning it will be turning the rear tires and making it steer like a forklift from the rear and could be causing the pull...

now that i think about it...if they did a 4 wheel alignment then it should have shown the rear toe as being out of spec if the hicas is turning at the wrong time

[RightRyan]

Prob should have clarified originally, my hicas was removed and replaced with an NA rear end for more torque/faster take off(different ratio obviously) so that shouldnt be an issue. My tire pressure is fine, checked. And yes it was a 4 wheel alignment. The place I took it to is supposed to be one of the best shops around and the guy is apparently the best... apparently. It's just not a dealer so the price isnt as high. Ill post the specs in the morning when I get the paper out of my other car.
As far as pull, i drove on a level, straight road in both lanes and it still pulled to the right, not super hard but enough. When I'm taking gradual curves on roads its super easy to turn to the right but it takes way more effect to turn the steering wheel to the left than it should.
As far as tires/wheels, the wheels have been balanced professionally and the tires are brand new, checked for bulges, etc

Thanks for the feedback by the way, like i said I'll post the specs tmrw so if you could wait for me to post and see what you think that would be awesome

[Ace2cool]

That would be the most helpful. Another thing you could check are baerings. I quick and easy test is to jack the car up, grab the wheel by top/bottom, and then try to shake it. If the wheels moves almost any at all, then you have a bearing going bad.

Is it shaking all the time, or just under certain speeds or load conditions?

And yeah, the data sheet will most definitely help us track it down. Other than the N/A rear end, it's more or less stock suspension?

[t.mcginley.jr]

If the alignment specs are good (after we see them) then I would think it's a suspension/bushing problem. Or bearings like Ace said

[Shoey2]

When I'm taking gradual curves on roads its super easy to turn to the right but it takes way more effect to turn the steering wheel to the left than it should.

steering drive-ability stuff is so hard to diagnose form 3rd person but sounds like something rack related if the numbers your gonna post show it was set proper...

[mrmoose]

can also be a warped rotor and or sticky caliper too...

[J30tChumpCar]

A shake is NEVER alignment related, a pull can be several things, alignment is lower on the list, top is tire balance, second is rotor/caliper issue. At what time, speed or brake application does it shake ?