Thanks for the help marlin.

It has to be full metat, and durable.

You have any opinions on these A&K MODO

SR25

I'm not really a big fan of the A&K guns - they're kinda cheaply made, and will probably fail quicker than anything else. If you using this as a starter gun, that's good then - however, using a '400' fps gun (i doubt it is that much, but i;ll go with it) as a starter/backyard gun, as once someone gets hit, they won't play with you ever again. Accuracy and the hop up system is more important than the fps of the gun, as shooting 400fps bb's that bend down don't really help, instead of having a TM that shoots 280fps stock and goes farther than anything you've ever seen.

I would recommend getting something that shoots low 300's that's built well - TM's are the best (plastic, but they'll take a huge beating), the new UTG metal line is really good (what I have), G&G, KWA, etc...

I had a UTG M14 that was wonderful. However, the moment I started tinkering with it, it quickly broke. One of the first problems I had with it was the fire selector linkage. It's plastic, and brittle. So I had a shop CNC me a few pieces of the broken part in aluminum.

Generally I steer from the china clones (A&K, UTG, etc), as they usually lack reliability. The best analogy I can come up with is turboing a car. You can add the power without supporting mods, but it won't make the power for long. China clone guns are the same. They make good power, but not for long IMO. Bad metallurgy and poor rubber will quickly lead to a gun that has a horrible hop up, and will either strip gears or break the gearbox.

I generally tell people to go with either Classic Army or TM. TM is a great gun for people getting into the sport. I still use my TM P90 because it's so rock solid.

A site I used to order from regularly was Trinity Airsoft They have good prices and great service. If you end up needing a random factory bit, they'll order it for you from Japan.

I've used Redwolf and eHobby Asia before. They're both located in Hong Kong, and I usually get my stuff from them in about a week's time.

Eh the fps doesnt bother me or my friends. We probably wont ever get somewhere to play besides around my house. I really don't want a plastic gun, even if they do take a beating. I will check out the UTG metal line.

Just quick clarification - the UTG metal line are USA built and made - the older ones are the 'china' clones. The only thing that I want to do to my UTG is to change the hopup system to a better one. Other than that, the gun is solid metal through and through. UTG mags blow hard though.

Still can't go wrong with a TM - always considered one of the best.

My old UTG M14 was a metal gun, and it was poor quality to say the least. I cracked the gearbox, stripped a gear, broke a selector lever, and melted a trigger contact. Also, the piston head and cylinder head broke. This was supposed to be in their newer, better line as well.

If I buy knockoffs, I go for Echo 1 guns now.

The M14's were a step up from the original MP5 and AK line they released - however, they stepped up with the M4 Commando line - fully made and built in the USA, all Metal (everything was metal, no small parts plastic, etc.).

Echo 1's scare me.

Every Echo 1 I've used has been good. One of my teammates has a G36, and it's held up for years of abuse

Im going to check out some guns at my friends paintball shop. Can't wait to play.

Hijacker wrote:Every Echo 1 I've used has been good. One of my teammates has a G36, and it's held up for years of abuse

I've heard a lot about them being too overpowered for the internals - a lot of people I've played with had their gearboxes die because the stock internals couldn't hold up to the M120 (m110? I forget at the moment) spring that they put in there...they just felt kinda cheap to me...I dunno, maybe that's just me saying that coming from a 9 pound gun...

My UTG was too powerful for it's own good. But such is the case when you use cloned guns. Over the years I've noticed it boils down to a luck of the draw case. I've seen clone guns shoot forever and a day and have nary a problem. However, you run into cases where the gearbox shatters after one good game.

If you buy quality, you can expect quality is the way I look at it. If you buy cheap, expect cheapness.

So I've been slowly customizing the new WA M4. I still need to start reinforcing some of the internals, but nothing has been giving me any issue when shooting green gas.



I replaced the pistol grip with a modular CAA piece.

I fixed a CAA stock saddle. The supplied mounting screws weren't long enough for the airsoft stock, so I had to resort to JB weld. I'm not planning on taking it off anytime...ever.

I put a Troy Tactical drop in RIS to mount an old foldable pistol grip of mine, and I swapped my Tasco red dot onto the upper rail. I'm not too excited about the positioning of the reddot. It sits low, and I had to slice off the front site base to use it. I'm half tempted to find a nice 3-4x ACOG style site.

Hijacker wrote: I'm half tempted to find a nice 3-4x ACOG style site.

Eh, it's not really worth it, considering the distances you are shooting with the gun (at least IMO). A good 1x with a large lens usually does a much better job.

anyone have the JG M4 S system? I was thinking of getting it soon or maybe the JG G36C? Any players in S. Cal? wheres the best place in S.Cal

marlin29311 wrote:
Eh, it's not really worth it, considering the distances you are shooting with the gun (at least IMO). A good 1x with a large lens usually does a much better job.

I like to use scopes to spot with. It makes scanning for hidden people so much easier. What I'm tempted to do is get some kind of monocular to hang around my neck for distance spotting and just retain a large aperture, non scoped site for targeting.

Turns out my old neighbor is really into airsoft and amazing from the sound of it.

He did a 2 vs. 13+ games, Two guys in ghillie suits destroyed.