Post by
Ubernoober »
https://forums.nicoclub.com/ubernoober-u14357.html
Fri Dec 10, 2004 3:10 pm
Good lord. All this and I still don't think his question was adequately answered. I think he is looking at this as a closed loop system designed for a daily driver, not a dry-ice ultra-cooling challenge. I will also try to help and probably totally mess it up, but here goes:
Air-to-Air: Pros: Highly efficient. No moving parts. Already available in Kit form. No liquid to leak or spill. No liquid to periodically change.Cons: Requires you to blow the intake charge through the entire piping system, which can delay the onset of boost and makes for multiple places for piping to slip apart or leak. Low heat capacity (heat soak comes on quickly).
Air-to-Water: Pros:The additional length to the air path can be as short as the thickness of the intake plenum core. The cooling core can be placed anywhere that is convenient, though the radiator must be placed in clean air. Tremendous heat capacity. The ability to hyper-cool. Coolant is easy... a 50-50 blend of water to antifreeze.Cons: You must circulate the coolant, which means a pump. Less efficient (temperature drop of intake charge will be less). Periodic changes of coolant. Liquid moving through a core IN the intake system, so a leaky core means sucking fluid into the combustion chambers.
Water is a tremendous heatsink and it takes a huge amount of energy to heat it up, which means once the reservoir is cool you can run harder for longer before the water warms up significantly. The metal of an air system will rapidly heat up and relies totally on the airflow over the radiator for cooling. The water will come back down to ambient temperature more slowly than the air system though.
An example:My Saleen has an Air-to-Water intercooler. The front mount radiator sits right on front of the engine radiator. There are two Spal fans that constantly pull air through half the radiator so that even at an idle, the water can cool off. The cooling core sits directly beneath an Eaton supercharger. It is about the width and height of a normal heater core. It is double the thickness and the fins are designed to maximise both heat exchange and total airflow. Doing a hard pull from idle through 120 MPH, the temperature of the water will rise from 60 (this time of year in Cali) to near 65. Thats it. Seriously. Additional runs will slowly warm the water up to a max of about 90-100 (again, this time of year). At that point, the radiator is able to hold that temperature. If I drive without boost at cruise speeds for 3-5 minutes, the water will have returned to 60.