Air regulator on RB20: safe to take out completely?

Discuss the RB20, RB25 and RB26 series engines.
munkeijoe
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2011 7:41 pm
Car: s13 coupe w/Cefiro RB20det

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Alright, so I am having a problem with idle when warm, it will just slowly die if it doesnt get fed throttle. So I found the tube on intake side by the plug of the air regulator, and I took it off. and the idle went up past 2K-ish till i put the tube back on the air regulator.

Now question is, can I take the air regulator out of the engine completely? just take the two tubes that go into the air regulator together with a male to male connection and just take the air regulator out of the picture completely?

I want to do this, and I am pretty sure the air regulator is the reason why my engine dies when warm, but I dont want to have it running too lean or something and f*ck my engine up.

Anyone have any input on this?

Thanks,

-Joe


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StricNyne
Posts: 3725
Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2003 1:11 pm

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i took mine out, and power fc didnt mind it, and i dont run it on haltech

munkeijoe
Posts: 4
Joined: Sat Sep 03, 2011 7:41 pm
Car: s13 coupe w/Cefiro RB20det

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Did you just connect the two tubes together that go to the air regulator?

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StricNyne
Posts: 3725
Joined: Thu Oct 30, 2003 1:11 pm

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ya

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Gabes13
Posts: 2385
Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2008 11:59 am
Car: rb20det s13
Location: St. Pete, Fl.

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Wont that cause a massive air leak or something? The air regulator should close when the motor is warm, so bypassing the unit would be letting more air in, as if it were cold, all the time. A member here, I forget who, mentioned you could ditch the air regulator and tune cold start idles and enrichment through your coolant temperature sensor.

What about the tps? doesn't it measure throttle position and adjust fuel quantity through its reading?

I feel if you were going to ditch the air regulator, it would be better to plug off the manifold ports, and its respective feed on the j pipe. I feel like bypassing the unit would create an air leak, and even though the air has been metered by the mafs, the quantified fuel would not be accurate b/c of the tps.

Or am i missing something simple?

Darius
Posts: 4820
Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
Location: Chicagoland

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Why don't you just replace the regulator? :naughty:

240z4u
Posts: 2071
Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 4:47 am
Car: '95 Nissan 240SX

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You will end up with a super high idle. There are two air regulators. One slowly closes after starting the car, effectively holding the throttle open until it warms up. The other one actually controls your idle speed when you lift your foot etc.. mine does not work for some reason and I wish it did. If you go WOT to closed throttle the engine will die for example.

You need to make sure you have power and ground at the air regulator. If you don't, then figure out why.


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