Air in clutch line = Bad

[gingerbredman]

hmm my slave went out a few months ago, leaking so bad i couldnt shift anymore. replaced it, bled it, worked fine for a few months and started losing fluid again its been 2 days since i had to refill the reservoir and its bone dry. i get this wierd humming sound when my car is first going into gear, like when the clutch is halfway engaged, but i'm not sure if that has anything to do with that. hope we can figure this out

[Hype]

So Hype any word on how the shops doing on your car? Make sure you ask them what the problem was, it would be nice to know ahead of time what I'll be looking for when I do the clutch. Thanks

Just had it taken in today... they'll save the parts. Lets make a bet on what it is for each of us lol. The suggestions I've come up with/heard from others:

1) Broken release fork/pivot2) Fork slipped off TO bearing3) Clutch springs grabbing flywheel4) Worn TO bearing (?)

my money's on #2 - it costs nothing for you to fix, but it costs me $300 in labor cause I dont have a place to work Gonna have the clutch and all that changed too, I cant imagine its the original clutch with 206k on it

[sirgilbert357]

Also, since the slave cylinder sits at a slight angle down, an air pocket tends to form at the higher side of it. Get rid of it.

I just replaced my master and slave clutch cylinders, did the damper box bypass and added a steel braided clutch line, but I think after trying to bleed it for an hour and getting no change in the pedal feel, maybe this is my issue. How, exactly, does one go about getting rid of that air bubble you speak of? My clutch feels more sloshy than before all my work! Help?

[Hype]

I just replaced my master and slave clutch cylinders, did the damper box bypass and added a steel braided clutch line, but I think after trying to bleed it for an hour and getting no change in the pedal feel, maybe this is my issue. How, exactly, does one go about getting rid of that air bubble you speak of? My clutch feels more sloshy than before all my work! Help?

There was a suggestion in a different thread by Scott (aka NISTECH, an actual service tech I believe) that jacking up the front end makes it easier to bleed the clutch system. The other suggestion I can offer is investing in a speedbleeder splparts.com has em for cheap, but I think there is a $9 flat rate shipping charge for a $7 screw

[sirgilbert357]

There was a suggestion in a different thread by Scott (aka NISTECH, an actual service tech I believe) that jacking up the front end makes it easier to bleed the clutch system. The other suggestion I can offer is investing in a speedbleeder splparts.com has em for cheap, but I think there is a $9 flat rate shipping charge for a $7 screw

Well, I don't feel bad, then. I had the front of the car jacked up about 10 inches and I always use a mighty-vac one man speed bleeder, although I was having problems getting fluid out. I just saw another post saying the Beck/Arnley master and slave clutch cylinders are crap. Well...thats what I just installed. The bleed valve seems to leak air from the screw threads into the bleeder tubing, making it look like you have endless air in your system. Should I unscrew the valve all the way and put some Vasoline on the threads to seal it or something? I'm at a loss...and I dont really want to have to buy a new slave cylinder if I can help it, but the pedal is "slow" and the clutch feels like it doesn't want to grab as quick now.

[Hype]

Who sells those Beck/Arnley units? Let NICO members know so they dont get crap parts!

I had the front of the car jacked up about 10 inches and I always use a mighty-vac one man speed bleeder, although I was having problems getting fluid out.

Hmm, I didnt mean one of those pump things. I was referring to http://www.splparts.com/Parts/...t.asp, a bleeder that has a check valve that lets air out but not back in, allowing you to perform the bleed by yourself.

[placham]

I had the same problem. Did the auto to manual swap and couldn't bleed the clutch. Finally bypassed the dampener and still was unable to bleed it. Then I got pissed off and removed the slave and pumped it by hand to get air out and installed it back on trans. Afterwards did 2 people bleed and it works fine. Just the pedal from clutch does not line up with brake pedal, I think I can pull it up with my foot.

[PapaBurgundy]

So I found the problem, dropped the transmission and the pressure plate had no pressure and my clutch was half gone and I'm not talking about friction material the clutch was actually busted in half and scattered around my bellhousing. And lightweight flywheels are the shiznit

[sirgilbert357]

Who sells those Beck/Arnley units? Let NICO members know so they dont get crap parts!

Hmm, I didnt mean one of those pump things. I was referring to http://www.splparts.com/Parts/...t.asp, a bleeder that has a check valve that lets air out but not back in, allowing you to perform the bleed by yourself.

I got them from Auto Parts Warehouse...why does everyone say they suck? Can someone give me a reason? I probably cant send them back now, but I could sure try if they really are that bad and fail a lot...

Anyway, to Hype: Yeah, I've seen those screws youre talking about, but what I use is a vacuum speed bleeder, so there is no pumping of the clutch at all, you just pump the vac and it maintains a constant vacuum on the bleed valve, allowing you to just crack the valve open and suck the fluid out and then close it when you are done -- all the while maintaining the vacuum so no air gets in. Its pretty badass and works great except for the air leaking from the screw threads. Anyone wanna give me an idea on how to fix this?

[Hype]

Anyway, to Hype: Yeah, I've seen those screws youre talking about, but what I use is a vacuum speed bleeder, so there is no pumping of the clutch at all, you just pump the vac and it maintains a constant vacuum on the bleed valve, allowing you to just crack the valve open and suck the fluid out and then close it when you are done -- all the while maintaining the vacuum so no air gets in. Its pretty badass and works great except for the air leaking from the screw threads. Anyone wanna give me an idea on how to fix this?

If you're happy with your brake bleed tool and don't want to replace it with a speedbleeder, you can just bring your bleed screw to any auto parts store and replace it for pennies. Maybe you got some bad threads? For the cost, its worth trying. Pick up some thread sealing tape while you're there too. If both those dont work, insist that the store take your slave back because its obviously defective.

P.S. I personally havent heard anything about Beck/Arnley parts, good or bad

Oh and for those who are playing at home, I got my car back today. A spring broke on the clutch (pics to follow)