Air Flow Meters.....

[USDM_OneVia]

When is upgrading to one necessary? I think about 50% of my cold start problems and fuel cut at 11psi is AFM related.

Now... I haven't put the multimeter up to it, so I don't know what kind of voltage it is throwing out right now, so here is my question.

Could a CA ecu be tuned to run an SR MAF? Would this be reasonable since they are more abundant than the CA one's? I know the CA18ET one will work, but Jon and I have discussed about it running the motor too lean. I am running a CA18ET one right now, and Jon has my CA18DET one. My AFM cleared up his problems a bit, but mine are the same with either AFM.

Could an SR AFM be used on a mild setup... i.e. bolt-ons?

Could/should I just go ahead and upgrade to the Z32 one on the stock turbo and stock injectors?

I finally got my front mount in, and I look like a total poser hitting fuel cut at 10-11 psi at about 4500 rpms in 2nd gear. I want to be able to boost it out a bit more, I know I shouldn't be hitting fuel cut until almost 14-16 psi.

Open for discussion....

Joe

[McAdam]

try a CA18DE one from a pulsar. those'll work I beleive. it works on the CA18ET, I know that for a fact. another possible thing you could try, hack the MAF. take the sensor out, put it in a bigger housing and adjust yoru injector size accordingly. say you put it in a housing that has 2x the area of your old MAF housing (pipe that the MAF is in) then you put in injectors that are 2x as big. I guess the DSM boys do it all the time and in works well for them. I am gonna try it when I get my CA up and running.

McAdam

[slw240sx]

joe without a boost controler you shouldnt be hitting 10psi, yet you do, i think we need to swap actuators and then work on the MAF later, hitting boost cut on 11psi on a manual gauge isnt totally acurate, it is prob off by a few pounds.

[USDM_OneVia]

I think it is too, it reads about a hair under 0 when I turn it off.

But have (according to the gauge) 18 inHG at idle, and 24 inHG when cruising with no throttle.

If I am just driving it, like back and forth to work, the most boost I will see is like 6 pounds and that is if I am going up a hill. But if I romp on it.... 10 pounds.... fuel cut.

So... I dunno. I'll have to have you drive it Jon and let me know what you think, kinda goofy.

Oh well.... sooooo many little problems to fix, so little time.

Oh yeah.... the whole right side of my cluster decided it doesn't want to work anymore. Odometer is stuck at 138824 and tripmeter is stuck at 000.0. And the HUD comes on when it wants too, and it no longer reads the speed I am going, I can be cruising to work and it will just blink 0 mph at me every now and then. So...... anyone have a 91-94 analog cluster or JDM cluster they want to get rid of? I will also need the subharness too since my shizzle is for the digital cluster.

Then I have to find out why the car runs like complete crap when I first start it up in the morning. It wants to idle at like 400 rpms and is real boggy and misses like a biatch. But once it is warmed up, it runs great. Hot starts aren't a problem, just cold starts. Could be a possible leak into the Air Regulator, but I haven't had a free second to check it out.

Here's the fix-it list-----------------------1. Unghetto fab my Intercooler2. Find a new cluster3. Find out why I hit fuel cut WAY too early4. Cold starting problems

I know its not the timing either. I set it to 17 degrees and it holds it now.

Joe