aight im kinda upset...

[racebuilt]

guys i hate rude or try to be mean.. i post in another thread about clutch problems.. but it didnt pop up and i posted in my thread.. and i see that people are viewing it but not posting anything that can help me out... so ima break it down.. clutch didnt wanna come back up, bled the system, after bleeding for while clutch pedal was normal.. then i thought everything was good after that... i see the fork and slave moving freely and naturally like normal... and its new.. and so is the master cylinder.. but when i checked the fluid it was blackish/grayish.. but before i was gonna bleed it, i noticed all the fluid was so low.. but when i fuild it back up, it only took very VERY VERY little.. so yea idk what the hell is going on.. read my other post. its more detailed.. its under I KNOW I KNOW.. i just need some advice.. and i hear about this damper box thing... idk what to do with that.. or bypass it..

[1unar3clipse]

Check your CMC on the inside of the cabin, where it connects to your clutch pedal for adjustment? check for leaks on the inside here on the rubber boot, and then check inside the engine bay for tiny leaks.

Sometimes you don't notice the leaks until they are really bad like me, there also could be a leak in the rubber clutch line (bypass the clutch block if you haven't, if you have disregard this)

If all else fails, you find 0 leaks and everything looks in shape do a flush with completely new fluid, re-bleed the sucker at go at it again. or search.

[EstoMax]

to bypass the damper box just unscrew the line coming from the clutch master cylinder, then unscrew the line going into the clutch line that goes to the slave. Now bend the line from the master cylinder so you can screw it straight into the clutch slave line.

like so:

the lines going into the damper box are probably not drawn with correct orientation but its not hard to see which line goes where.. only one line goes up to the engine bay (going to the master cylinder) and the damper loop is visible under the car. you can unbolt and discard the loop/bracketry afterwards.

if the fluid is getting dirty then you didnt bleed enough fluid through it or the slave may be leaking/contaminated

Marko

[racebuilt]

ok thanks... i like that diagram thing.. thats actually more help full then the write up i was looking at a second ago... i couldnt see what was what and he didnt even make anything like you did, but ok hey i got one more thing.. i know i said i have new MC and slave.. but is my slave supposed to be leaking??? cuz when i took off the boot.. i noticed it looked like it was rusted in place... and the was kinda think.. red thick.. idk if thats normal or what... cuz its not like gushing out or anything... its just there.. you know..

[racebuilt]

oh yea and all this might help my throw out bearing disengage right??? cuz thats my problem..

[1unar3clipse]

Thanks for posting up the Diagram Marko!

i know i said i have new MC and slave.. but is my slave supposed to be leaking??? cuz when i took off the boot.. i noticed it looked like it was rusted in place... and the was kinda think.. red thick.. idk if thats normal or what... cuz its not like gushing out or anything... its just there.. you know..

Woah hold on there.. you have a new CMC and SMC? but the SMC is leaking? was it leaking before you removed the boot of before? because if its leaking before you removed the boot then you toasted the poor thing man.

Rusted in place? did you get water in your hydraulic clutch lines? because it shouldn't rust... especially on the inside of the boot.You might be able to repair it but its best just to get a new slave, mine gashed clutch fluid everywhere when I popped mine but I was abusing it at the time, but my second slave had a minor leak that I didn't notice until my clutch pedal dropped mid commute and I had to rev-shift her home.

Got pics? I'm trying to help you but its hard to discern whats really the problem.

[racebuilt]

ill get pictures right now..

[racebuilt]

ok guys i did the bypass thing.. and i coulndt take pictures cuz the battery is dead, anyways it work.. my car can move.. but it feels sluggish... but after top end of 3rd gear it kinda picks up.. and i bleed it to the point where new where new fluid was coming out... but now my pedal is kinda soft then before... like really.. and i already adjusted it before i even took off the transmission.. so i guess i should adjust it again?? and now i hear this back fire coming from the exhuast.. and i hear this lil rattle in the pipe, like if something was in there just rolling around.. and when i rev it when it comes down to about 2.5 or 3 rpms it sounds like it pops.. and it never ever did that before... and idk why its doin it now if i never touched anything with the exhuast... so i wanna know why my exhuast does thatand also why my clutch is 50 percent softer then before but still comes up by it self and works properly.. you know.. its like that gut feeling..that it shouldnt feel like that.. but my car dives now..

[1unar3clipse]

If you bypassed the clutch block your going to have to bleed it really good, I can't stress this enough because what one person thinks is bleeding a clutch can be totally different from the next persons perspective.

I usually get some oil/gas proof tubing around the same diameter of the bleeding screw off of the Slave and run it into a clear glass so I can see the quality (or percentage) of old fluid versus new fluid while I bleed, and once its all new fluid I will route the tubing to go back into the CMC so as not to waste so much fluid.

if bleeding doesn't work you might need to adjust the clutch again via the fork that connects to the clutch pedal inside the cabin, but this is after you re-bleed it.

Does your motor and body shake during idle? more so than normal?My motor does about the same thing declining from 3k RPMS but its not loud or a "back-fire" persay but more of a pop pop.

[racebuilt]

well ok ill do it again about the rebleeding.. and my motor used to move alot.. if i need new mounts but i just adjust the timing at work with the snap on scanner.. and it perrrsss now... its really calm and i like that... but before the whole car would shake alot.. anyways my motor is fine when at ilde.. but when i rev it up and let go the pedal, the acts like it wants to die, but then goes back to about 700-750 rpms.. but i know that normal right...??but yea its just like a simi loud pop.. not too too loud.. you know.. but just a pop.. but why now after the clutch and never before??? doesnt make sence to me...

[1unar3clipse]

If idle drops then at some point regains and stays nominal then your IACV valve might need cleaning.

zerothread?id=251731 Thats a write-up on how to clean a redtops IACV, although they are different engines spraying the inside of the IACV with brake cleaner is the same method for both.

zerothread?id=301067 There is a Diagram on this thread of how to locate the IACV on the KA24DE (assuming you have a DOHC and not SOHC)

If you search the main terms you can find a ton of help on the site, although idle dropping can be associated to accessory load, heater load, vacuum leak, gummed up IACV, IIRC even the AIV can cause it.

[racebuilt]

ok guys now i bleed it to normal and its back. i check the fluid coming out and its clear as the sky.. and member when i said my check engine light is on.. well its code 82 which is crank shaft sensor... idk why, maybe its when i was tryin to put back the transmission and i was ramming it against the body to get it in there.. and my car is a lil sluggish... and i think its all because of the sensor... and its kinda shaking alot.. like miss firing.. right??? and my car died on the way to my gf house.. like i was driving and i was coming to a light. and i pushed in the clutch and i was watching the idle and it started to go lower then 750rpms. and then i almost hit a car cuz i was focused on the idle.. and my car died for a second and i had to turn it back on...

ok guys.. tell me this.. is it bad when you replace the clutch but dont replace the throw out bearing, you just use the stock one... i couldnt get off the throw out bearing from the throw out shaft thingy.. you know.. it kinda looks like its pressed on.. and my brother told me i shoulda changed it out... and the one came with the kit is alot bigger then the stock...

[racebuilt]

and also i think the rattle in the exhaust is maybe some kinda miss fire...

[240sxmech]

WOW .........thats all i need to say about this .........

[Vegascorbin]

Their is a reason they include a throwout berring with clutch kits.

Yes you should allways replace the berring when doing a clutch.