AIDLE VALVE Q?

[180sx]

so the air aidle valve (ka24e back of throtle body) the air intake is done through intake pipe factory ... with turbo i don't want to weld bunges on my intercooler piping , can i just attach the mini k&n filter to it ???just like on valve cover? i don't have emission testing here

also are only vaccum lines needed after egr aiv and buterflies and canister remowallis fuel pressure reg ? am i right (rest of ports can be used for bov ..hmm thats it ,rest pluged up i guess ?wastegate has own from turbo)my turbo has like 3 vaccum ports? anyone know for what are the 2 remaining? its either volvo or saab .48 ar also what oil are you guys using ???? 20w50

i did find out my ka24e is 8.6 comp not 9.1 so i have air temp sensor what should i do just cut it or should i be making a bung for it

also i have a&f gage if i hook it up to stock o2 can i boost based on that reading untill i start leaning /? and how do i tell when maf maxes out ???i am curious how far stock parts go as far as fuel/air or the only way is acctual dyno?

thanks guys any info is always greatly apriciated

[Import_Ant]

so the air aidle valve (ka24e back of throtle body) the air intake is done through intake pipe factory ... with turbo i don't want to weld bunges on my intercooler piping , can i just attach the mini k&n filter to it ???just like on valve cover? i don't have emission testing here

no it wont work. the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve) has to be plumbed into the cold/charge pipe. sorry

also are only vaccum lines needed after egr aiv and buterflies and canister remowallis fuel pressure reg ? am i right (rest of ports can be used for bov ..hmm thats it ,rest pluged up i guess ?

that's pretty much what I'm running. I have my boost gauge running off of one source that I have t'd off to run to the actuator for the butterflies. then I ran a line exclusively to the FPR, the other line I ran to my BOV/Wastegate. I decided to use an ID signal from my intake to run my wastegate to compensate for the pressure drop in the intercooler. if I can get in my garage soon (need to get my dad's Tempo out of there) I'll take some pictures that I've been promising everyone.

also what oil are you guys using ???? 20w50

I'm running Valvolene 10W30. runs just fine but then again I do have an oil cooler installed.

i did find out my ka24e is 8.6 comp not 9.1 so i have air temp sensor what should i do just cut it or should i be making a bung for it

i just disconnected mine. I havent really had much trouble other than it running a bit rich when it's cold out (but i am my bov externally so I think that's more of the cause) if you can make a bung in your intake go for it otherwise it shouldn't cause you too much grief to remove it altogether.

also i have a&f gage if i hook it up to stock o2 can i boost based on that reading untill i start leaning /? and how do i tell when maf maxes out ???i am curious how far stock parts go as far as fuel/air or the only way is acctual dyno?

PLEASE! PLEASE do not go based off of that to tune. our O2 sensor is a narrowband POS. i'm running 8.5psig on my 8.6:1cr SOHC right now w/ stock fuel system and Walbro 255lph. I dont really feel safer going higher than that. turbo is .48ar t3/t4 btw. if you're going to try and tune it either shell out the $ for a good wideband o2 sensor or take it to a dyno and use theirs. just turning the boost up until you 'lean out' is DEFINITELY not safe though. there are many other limiting factors that will cause your motor to blow up like a grenade if you exceed their tolerances. look at all the people who have just blown rods out of their blocks. they were running just fine afr wise. I dont plan on pushing my stock rods past what I am right now. I am confidant they can handle up to 300 rwhp (but that would really be pushing it) I do however have the liberty of owning a spare motor so I'll rebuild that for more power. no need to get greedy when it's going to land you cruising for chicks on your bicycle.

[180sx]

HEY ant YOU ARE MY HERO !~!! u always do good replies that make sence!I APRICIATE THAT VERY MUCH AND I AM SURE MANY OTHE RMEBERS DO TOO

as far as air idle valve what differencew does it make i wonder if u just let it breathe by itself through a filter? VS charge pipe maf reading is that it?

AS FAR AS A/F AND Boosting the reason me asking is there is a dude well 2-3 of them i have tqalked too that have been runing dsm ecu with dsm sensors and they are boosting as high as 18psui everything factory , and since megasquirt is being back ordered fro where i ordered mine , so since i am not a mad racer i was going to spend 100 at local dsm graveyard and use the ecu with sensors. thats why i wanted to know the accuracy of factory narrowband

[Import_Ant]

hey you're welcome on the replies, I definitely dont mind helping since I'm bored here at work and you are asking good questions. (mostly I'm bored at work though. j/k)

Fiznat explained the function/purpose of the IACV alot better than I can so I'll just quote him.

IACV- Idle Air Control Valve. This valve... lets air into your intake manifold to regulate idle speed... it needs to see a vaccum before the throttle plate

I think I recall some people saying they blocked it off with some success but I'll have to dig more to find out.

I dont think I completely understood what you were trying to say at the end but you CANNOT run a DSM ECU/wiring harness with our cars. DSMs are WAYYY different and they're going to be running more boost because 1) that engine is built from the factory for boost 2)they're running alot smaller of a turbo which doesnt push as much volume as a t3/t4.

[180sx]

I KNOW its dsm ecu for sure and i've seen like 3 already i belive its on ka24de thow . and turbo mapping in ecu doesn't affect turbo size pps upgrade talons from b14 to b20's

[180sx]

what i meant before is since i can't get my megasquirt for a wile i was going to cancel my mega order and try doing dsm ecu swap since i be using dsm o2 i wanted to know how accurate the a/f reading on my gage HERE i found 1 of the dsm swaps



http://www.cardomain.com/ride/432941/1

[Import_Ant]

HERE i found 1 of the dsm swaps http://www.cardomain.com/ride/432941/1

what the....

[Structure240sx]

you can cap off the IACV and tighten the throttle cable enough to jsut make it crack open to let air in.

this is what i did recently, only becuase my old intake pipe had my IACV going into it. i made a larger intake pipe and tried out cracking the throttle plate. works pretty good

[Import_Ant]

won't that set your TPS off since technically the throttle is already open a degree or two? Don't get me wrong I'm not arguing whether or not it works but I was under the impression the throttle was supposed to be closed at idle or you would be reducing some of your throttle's range. (instead of 0 to 90 degrees your throttle plate only functions from 2 to 90 degrees)

I hope I'm making sense in what I'm trying to say. have you had any adverse affects of running like that?

[sil80drifter]

i would LOVE to get rid of the IACV, it takes up so much space and weighs a bit too, with the hoses etc. I'll try this throttle plate thing but I wonder how consistent it is, and how it does in cold/hot/humid conditions. I mean the IACV DOES control things. it doesn't just pop open when you are off the gas.

sil80