Ahhhh the problems!!!

[govtworkhorse]

So as you all know, my car runs, but runs like crap. Well now I'm stumped. Here is a rundown of the symptoms:

1. Gas in oil but checked compression and it was even and good across the cylinders.

2. Can't build boost. At random levels of boost, depending on how fast I feed it fuel, it will bleed off. (i.e cruising in first and gradually but steadily pressing the pedal, the boost gauge starts to move towards boost but will bleed off back down to vacuum even though I'm still slowly giving it gas)

3. Plugs are black from running way rich

4. A/F ratio is all over the place when cruising under steady throttle. But idles in the "rich" area after car runs for a minute.

5. Capped off the system where the MAF is to pressure test for leaks. Gauge showed I put 12psi in and I heard a little air coming from the throttle body gasket. But hardly any at all.

6. Then my oil dipstick blew out releasing all the pressure.

So I don't know what's going on. Looking to you guys/gals for help. How could my dipstick blow out and have gas in my oil, and still have good/equal compression on all cylinders. Please tell me I'm retarded and there is a simple explanation for all this.
Modified by govtworkhorse at 4:02 PM 1/8/2008

[Acecool]

What are your compression numbers?

Is the mass air flow sensor working & clean? (running rich problem may be related)

[rb25drag]

I kinda had the same problem.. Well with the dip stick blow out. My problem was a broke piston between ring #1 an ring #2 on number 1 piston.

Your looking into ALOT of money. At this point your in need of a big rebuild from bottom up!!

If you don;t have alot of money invested to were you can get out easy sell what you have and start over. Or if your like I was in over your head. About 5 -10 Grand and start tearing it out and down for machine work rebuild.

Thats my guess. These guys on here might have another solution but if your luck is like mine was. Good luck!!!

[BoostFab]

list all your mods and see if i can help with this one.

[mello88]

Here's some ideas..

First off do a leakdown test to make sure your valves and rings are sealing well. This will probably tell you the most amount of information in the shortest amount of time.

Most of your symptoms sould like a boost leak, I know you said you tested to 12 psi and thought the TB gasket was failed... Try pressurizing to 20psi next time and use a spray bottle with soapy water to check all your paper IM gaskets. Also you need to take the TB off, get a new TB gasket and/or RTV it on then retest again. Your **** will never run right if the TB gasket is failed. FYI the TB that came with my motor had a bad shaft seal and would leak anything more than 5psi from under the TPS, might wanna check there too. TPS pops off easily, pressurize then open the throttle and listen for a leak.

Dipstick could have popped out for a few reasons. Basically you're pressurizing your crankcase, I would guess (or rather hope) it's because your PCV valve is old and not holding pressure well anymore. Try plugging the PCV hole in the IM and do your leakdown test again. If the crankcase still pressurizes (you'll hear/feel air through the open PCV line now) then you can bet on a valvestem/ring problem. I still haven't found a good replacement PCV valve, one from VG30DETT "should" work though...

Double check your exh manifold gasket and turbine inlet gaskets to make sure they're holding pressure.

GL

So as you all know, my car runs, but runs like crap. Well now I'm stumped. Here is a rundown of the symptoms:

1. Gas in oil but checked compression and it was even and good across the cylinders.

2. Can't build boost. At random levels of boost, depending on how fast I feed it fuel, it will bleed off. (i.e cruising in first and gradually but steadily pressing the pedal, the boost gauge starts to move towards boost but will bleed off back down to vacuum even though I'm still slowly giving it gas)

3. Plugs are black from running way rich

4. A/F ratio is all over the place when cruising under steady throttle. But idles in the "rich" area after car runs for a minute.

5. Capped off the system where the MAF is to pressure test for leaks. Gauge showed I put 12psi in and I heard a little air coming from the throttle body gasket. But hardly any at all.

6. Then my oil dipstick blew out releasing all the pressure.

So I don't know what's going on. Looking to you guys/gals for help. How could my dipstick blow out and have gas in my oil, and still have good/equal compression on all cylinders. Please tell me I'm retarded and there is a simple explanation for all this.

[rb25drag]

Does anyone have pictures of how your doing the pressure test of the intercooler piping and throttle body leaks?

[govtworkhorse]

Well my compression was 145 to 150psi.

I just installed a new PCV valve from a VG30DETT last week.

I can't put much more than 12psi because it blows out the dipstick somewhere around there.

I have pretty bad luck with all this so I'm going to assume the worst. I have had this motor for over a year and have had problems surrounding it the entire time.

Although last year the car ran perfect and I put it in storage. Now I swapped it into the new shell and I'm having all kinds of problems.

Also, could you give me the gist of how to do a leak down test. I know the piston needs to be at TDC on compression stroke but how do I pressurize it?
Modified by govtworkhorse at 5:47 PM 12/27/2007

[BoostFab]

Well my compression was 145 to 150psi.

I just installed a new PCV valve from a VG30DETT last week.

you probably don't have the one-way-check-valve installed correct direction. other wise boost will go straight into the crankcase.

[govtworkhorse]

So I figured out that I pressurized my crankcase because I plugged the line at the MAF for the valve stem and there is a line that goes to the valve covers down stream of my plug. Here is the plug: (Click to enlarge)



Here is the line I had to plug with my thumb that WAS pressurizing the whole system:



And here is the only leak I found up to 15psi. It is like Mello88's problem, the shaft seal on the throttle body leaks at or around 5psi and above but not all that extreme.



Is it just an o-ring or do I need to purchase a new throttle body? I can't tell because it is dark out now and if I need a new TB I will start looking now.

[BoostFab]

So I figured out that I pressurized my crankcase because I plugged the line at the MAF for the valve stem and there is a line that goes to the valve covers down stream of my plug. Here is the plug: (Click to enlarge)

why are you pressurizing on the turbo inlet ?? you can potentially damage the turbo's seal. on top of that, if you pressurizing the turbo inlet tube, obviously it will pressurize the tube that goes to the valve cover, directly into the crankcase, that explains why your dipstick is popping out. what's your reason for doing this pressure test in the turbo inlet tube to begin with???????

2. Can't build boost. At random levels of boost, depending on how fast I feed it fuel, it will bleed off. (i.e cruising in first and gradually but steadily pressing the pedal, the boost gauge starts to move towards boost but will bleed off back down to vacuum even though I'm still slowly giving it gas)

how is your boost gauge hook hook up ? check for leak in intercooler piping.

[govtworkhorse]

Here is a link to the 240Tech article about DIY Boost leak testing. And from what I gathered from that thread, I did it right. (or wrong in this case?!?!) Could you check out the link and let me know what you think and if thats f-ed up, could you give me a better way to check? Thanks.

http://www.nicoclub.com/articles.php?id=158784

[govtworkhorse]

And I hooked up the boost gauge to a nipple on the intake manifold. When I pressurized the system, My gauge read 12lbs. I was in working order in the old car, and I hooked it up just the same in this one. Is there something I'm missing?!?!

[rb25drag]

So as you pressure test do you leave the throttle body open or closed?

[BoostFab]

next thing you can do is leak down test. also did you removed the intake manifold ?

[govtworkhorse]

No, I did not remove the intake manifold. I didn't think there was a need to. How do I pressurize the cylinders once I have them at TDC on the compression stoke for the leak down test?

Did you see where I was coming from with the Tech Article?

[BoostFab]

Did you see where I was coming from with the Tech Article?

yeah, i was thinking you did not block off the lines that connects to the valve cover, which will pressurize the crank case, if you did block hese lines and the pressures then the issue is else where.

i asked if you had removed the intake manifold before the issue, because the gasket goes bad after a removal.

as for the leak down, put the car into gear, so it won't turn when air pressure is applied. leave all the spark plugs in except for the cylinder you're testing

[govtworkhorse]

Ok I gotcha on the intake deal. Thanks for the advice. I'll do the leak down test in the morning and post the results.

[govtworkhorse]

So I purchased a Throttle body from a guy through the classifieds but it's not here yet. I hope today's the day. So i went out to check for leaky injectors earlier and I don't have any. Pulled off the upper half of the intake. pulled out the fuel rail and laid it on some napkins. Turned key to "ON" and checked the towels. Nothing. And I did this a couple of times. The pressure did blow one of the injectors off the rail. Not sure what was up with that. Any ideas? I still have gas in oil and I start school in Cleveland (300 miles from my car) and I need to get it up there soon. I really hope it's not rings...

PLEASE HELP!

[Darius]

Ok. Reinstall the valve cover tube to the little tube extending up from the intake pipe upstream of the turbo and verify that the check valve for the PCV system is installed the right way. If you try to blow through it, the ball should close and the part with your mouth on it should connect to the intake manifold side. If it allows you to blow through, then that is where the boost is going -- the valve covers and down to the crank case and back out your dipstick after it is blown out.

Next, you effectively hooked the pressure tester up to the crank case like boostsfed pointed out already. It's like looking at the dipstick to see how much gas is left in the tank. Hook it up to the cold pipe from the turbo and pressurize the intercooler thru to the throttle body. Check for leaks because it sounds like you have a HUGE boost leak. A boost leak so big that it doesn't allow the turbo to build pressure. Have you looked at the blades on your turbo to make sure they are in tact?

Last, your fuel injectors do not fire when you turn the car ON. If so, you would fill the engine with gas every time you turned the key on. They will fire if you turn the key to start though. And how did a fuel injector pop off? They are held on by steel caps that are screwed down to the fuel rail. I'm wondering if this was loose and you had a leaky fuel injector that was allowing air pressure out and causing the engine to run rich.

Put the car back together and don't worry about the leakdown test quite yet. Slap the new throttle body on it since you already bought a new one, and repressurize the system the correct way. Hopefully when you reinstalled the injector that popped off, you accidentally fixed the problem.

As you can see, there are several things that can be amiss here, so start with the easiest things to test and work your way to the more difficult procedures eliminating possibilities as you go.

Give us an update soon.

[govtworkhorse]

Well the new TB was delivered at 6 so I went out in the dark and hooked it up. Took the car down the road and sure enough it's doing it still.

As far as the injector goes, I wasn't trying to get them to fire, rather checking to see if one was stuck open flooding my cylinder. But no go. As the rail was laying there, after it pressurized, it just popped out. so I popped the rubber part back into the rail. It did it with three different ones so I had the impression that's how they fit.

I haven't looked at the fins but I will be sure to do that in the morning.

Already installed the new PCV Valve and checked it with the blow method. All is good.

Is it at all possible the boost problem could be caused by my wastegate actuator? Like if it wasn't closing completely? I'm running out of ideas and time is running out as well.

[mello88]

Do you have a leakdown tester? It's basically two air regulators, two gauges and a spark-plug hole adapter.. Piston of test cylinder goes to TDC, pressurize to 100psi, hold the crank with a ratchet/socket (or in gear/ebrake if in bay). The 2nd gauge will show you leak percentage... Do this on each cylinder.

Got any pictures of your setup?

[govtworkhorse]

I do not have a leakdown test kit but I am going to pick one up very shortly. Here is a picture of my engine bay. Bone stock RB20 running 12lbs.

The hot side is hooked up now, just wasn't in this picture.

BTW what's the best method to put the cylinders at TDC. I read thread not long ago and a guy used a twig. I'm not about to do anything dumb like that but am up for suggestions.
Modified by govtworkhorse at 10:08 PM 1/8/2008

[Darius]

Use a long socket extension instead. Twigs are for hillbillies.

[govtworkhorse]

Do any of you know off-hand if Autozone rents leakdown tester kits or where I can find a decent one without spending $70. I want one anyway but I'm not sure if a high dollar one is in the budget this month.

[mello88]

ebay is a good source for cheaper leakdown testers.. AFAIK Autozone and those types of stores don't borrow them out. Harbor freight sells them too. The cheapest kits are like $40 to $60 and price goes up from there depending on brand name..

[govtworkhorse]

Hahahhaha I said "decent one" and you came back with the dreadful Harbor Freight. My step-dad was on a kick once and bought a bunch of their crap. It works great the first time but after that it's garbage.

[mott6904]

You either have a problem with your internals, your pcv, or your pressure regulator. I would start off by first doing a leakdown test like everyone else mentioned. If it turns out to be with in specs then pull off the vacuum line going to your pressure regulator and see if it is leaking fuel. Did you say it ran fine and then it sat before you put into another car. If so ive seen cars that have sat or have old plugs and fuel washed the rings out. I have put some marvel majic oil down each cylinder and let it sit over night and the crank it over in the morning and it was fine. I dont know if it will help your situation but it has worked plenty of times for me.

[Cjmartz2k]

Have you changed the oil, and then seen how quickly it gets gas in it again? I can't see it not being rings, but maybe there is something I'm missing.

BTW, Parma Heights? I'm from Garfield! Say hi to Cleveland for me

[govtworkhorse]

I need to change it out again but the last time it didn't take long to mix. I set motor in car and change oil. Then I hooked it all up and ran it for a little while off an on making sure all my wiring was good. Then I drove make 20 miles total over last month and it is badly mixed. I really thought it would have been an injector problem...maybe I need to get them cleaned or what not. Maybe one of them has a bad spray pattern. (Can't remember how to spell the word they use for this) and it's just shooting a stream into the cylinder. I already ran injector cleaner through...hmmm

Hahaha I hate Cleveland but I'm going to school there starting Monday so I better learn to like it.

[Carl H]

to beat a dead horse here, leakdown the motor and comp test to verify...else you might have an intake manifold gasket leak that only shows its self when its hot...so try pressure testing the car after its been driven some.