just to get this out of the way, I DID use search, Ive read every thread related to my problem and im still out of luck so here goes
I have a SOHC KA24E
ANY suggestions would be appreciated SO much, Im totally stumped.. heres my engines symptoms..
- light knocking noise under acceleration.. only seems to be audible between 2500-4500, it sounds just like my valves when they are really cold and havent been pumped up..
I put one of those listening stethescope things up against a whole bunch of points all over my engine.. its definitely not coming from a cylinder or down in the crank... it seems more up top, but I cant pin point where...
- motor stutters and misses a bit at idle- engine shakes alot (more so than normal for a KA)
alright.. I tightened the manifold bolts which were loose, changed the plugs to new NGK's..... replaced the fuel filter, air filter, and flushed my motor with ATF for 5 minutes followed by changing my oil and going with a heavier weight 15w50... and it STILL is making a noise.. wtf? I know half of you are going to say "screw it just get an SR" .. and believe me I would if it was a financial option at this very second, but I might not be able to afford it for a week or two at the least... so now im desperate.. I need to get my car back up and running properly
once again PLZ help somebody out there must be able to shed some light on this
agrahh this is so frustrating!!
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0range_240
- Posts: 229
- Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2002 9:55 pm
- Car: 89 HCR32
Hello,in response to your problem:
The SOHC have small hydraulic lifters that are part of the rocker arm. I had a similar problem and replaced the rocker arms on #1 cylinder. The symptoms (rough idle and excessive "shaking") can be an indicator that there is incomplete combustion due to a valve not fully opening or closing. The nissan tech at the local dealership told me of a story of his nissan truck failing to start, and finally when started ran very rough. His explanation was that the lifters can "collapse or stick" thus causing the valve not to operate properly. I don't usually recommend "mechanic in a can" but you might try to use some Marvel Mystery Oil. This is supposed to loosen stuck lifters and stuff. You have tried ATF, which is also a quick fix trick. If all else fails pull off the valve cover and check for excessive play on each lifter with the valve closed on the lifter you are testing. If you have to replace them, replace them in a set per cylinder to ensure that that cylinder is no longer the problem. BTW, They run about $20-30 each in my area.
The SOHC have small hydraulic lifters that are part of the rocker arm. I had a similar problem and replaced the rocker arms on #1 cylinder. The symptoms (rough idle and excessive "shaking") can be an indicator that there is incomplete combustion due to a valve not fully opening or closing. The nissan tech at the local dealership told me of a story of his nissan truck failing to start, and finally when started ran very rough. His explanation was that the lifters can "collapse or stick" thus causing the valve not to operate properly. I don't usually recommend "mechanic in a can" but you might try to use some Marvel Mystery Oil. This is supposed to loosen stuck lifters and stuff. You have tried ATF, which is also a quick fix trick. If all else fails pull off the valve cover and check for excessive play on each lifter with the valve closed on the lifter you are testing. If you have to replace them, replace them in a set per cylinder to ensure that that cylinder is no longer the problem. BTW, They run about $20-30 each in my area.
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0range_240
- Posts: 229
- Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2002 9:55 pm
- Car: 89 HCR32
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0range_240
- Posts: 229
- Joined: Fri Aug 30, 2002 9:55 pm
- Car: 89 HCR32
checked the chain, its still good and so are the guides
I went to take out my injectors today and noticed that big tube under my TVV was ripped open, and leaking air and some sort of greasy residue all over the place (exhaust gases and such I think) ... the hole on the bottom of the TVV itself was blocked with greasy crap (my car burns oil) that I had to knock out with a dentists pick.
After I cleaned it and replaced the tube I put everything back together and started up the car.... the noise is now slightly quieter but if I listen carefully I can hear it around 2500-3500 when I apply a bit of throttle.
Maybe the EGR is clogged too?
I went to take out my injectors today and noticed that big tube under my TVV was ripped open, and leaking air and some sort of greasy residue all over the place (exhaust gases and such I think) ... the hole on the bottom of the TVV itself was blocked with greasy crap (my car burns oil) that I had to knock out with a dentists pick.
After I cleaned it and replaced the tube I put everything back together and started up the car.... the noise is now slightly quieter but if I listen carefully I can hear it around 2500-3500 when I apply a bit of throttle.
Maybe the EGR is clogged too?
I have exactly the same problem!
My engine is doing exactly the same thing. Top end knock around 2500 rpms. Have you solved the problem yet?
89 240sx
89 240sx
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PureSXyness
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri Mar 26, 2004 12:59 pm
with your rocking engine, might i suggest some SEAFOAM.
i did it to my car cuz my car was randomly dying, and my friends like wow, your engine shakes a lot. then we did the seafoam procedure, and WHAM, we solved the engine shaking problem without even trying to fix it. just search this forum for instructions, cuz that's where i found them
i did it to my car cuz my car was randomly dying, and my friends like wow, your engine shakes a lot. then we did the seafoam procedure, and WHAM, we solved the engine shaking problem without even trying to fix it. just search this forum for instructions, cuz that's where i found them
Man seems like your internalls are gummed up maybe. IF its shakin so much its either the fact that your engine mounts arent fastened down tightly or your jsut running ruff from a hard working engine. Mine shaked alot it was the engine mounts where almost completely loose on one side not to mention I have one bolt stuck in my engine from the mount the head broke right off.
But if it shakes for a different reason I would also try some seafoam in your oil just pour a whole bottle in the oil spot and run a full tank of gas before changing your oil. Dont use fram filters and dont use ****ty *** oil.
Does it sound more like a knock or a tapping? A tap would probably just be your valves mine taps all day long tap tap tap tap. A cluc cluc cluc noise is way different. Im goign to assume here also that its more of a cluc cluc cluc noise because the engien is shaking more than normal.
Why the sound would go out after 4500 is interesting. I would have to contemplate here but it seems as if the rocker arms are going bad. I dont know if ours are pinned but itf they are the pins might be going bad. Usually a wear type element would be more promenent in the valve cover area at high rpm because your putting more energy into pushing the worn peice. why it would die off at 4500 up is beyond comprehension unless you recieve more oil after 4500 which would help to lubricate whatever is going bad. Our engines get up rpm fast so to have that noise from 2500 to 4500 is like having it all the time I shift at 4 so that noise would bother the F*** out of me.
Tapping would be valves, cluc noise would be larger components usually jointed pieces or metal to metal contact, clicking would be the timing chain.
But if it shakes for a different reason I would also try some seafoam in your oil just pour a whole bottle in the oil spot and run a full tank of gas before changing your oil. Dont use fram filters and dont use ****ty *** oil.
Does it sound more like a knock or a tapping? A tap would probably just be your valves mine taps all day long tap tap tap tap. A cluc cluc cluc noise is way different. Im goign to assume here also that its more of a cluc cluc cluc noise because the engien is shaking more than normal.
Why the sound would go out after 4500 is interesting. I would have to contemplate here but it seems as if the rocker arms are going bad. I dont know if ours are pinned but itf they are the pins might be going bad. Usually a wear type element would be more promenent in the valve cover area at high rpm because your putting more energy into pushing the worn peice. why it would die off at 4500 up is beyond comprehension unless you recieve more oil after 4500 which would help to lubricate whatever is going bad. Our engines get up rpm fast so to have that noise from 2500 to 4500 is like having it all the time I shift at 4 so that noise would bother the F*** out of me.
Tapping would be valves, cluc noise would be larger components usually jointed pieces or metal to metal contact, clicking would be the timing chain.