To start off I do know all the stock specs on the Z (NA and TT) Offsets, bolt patterns, front and rear, etc.
Does anyone know the max positive and negative offset you can have on the Z stock without anything looking odd, rubbing, or getting widebody additions? In milimeters please. I do not have a specific wheel in mind at this time, but I am just getting the measurements out of the way. Just want to know what kinda room I have to mess with before I start looking.
If there is already a thread on it from anywhere just throw it at me and I will nix this one
I have searched around the forums, but I always get 5000 topics with the word offset in like every other section of the site... mostly the s13 crowd with the stuff about the Z32 caliper conversion
Aftermarket Wheel Range
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nsrZ32
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Re: Aftermarket Wheel Range (gpelite)
The reason you can't find an general answer... is because it's relative. The stock set up for the TT and the NA are even different from each other because of HICAS linkages needing to clear the rear wheel well. But... even at that.... stock TT rims are : -front 16x7.5 45 mm offset -rear 16x8.5 35 mm offset.
Offset, is the measured distance between the center line of the rim to the mount point of the rim. We have positive offset on Z32 rims. The more negative offset, the more of the depth... the more positive, the more the center piece protrudes out in relation to the centerline of the rim.
If you are JUST considering the rims... you would be making a mistake.
Depending on the + taken on the rims (+1 to get 17", or +2 to get 18"), do a corresponding drop in the tire profile to compensate. Depending on how much compensation with the tire profile... it's possible to bring the total diameter back to stock wheel (tire and rim combo) levels.
That's ONE aspect.... and how that affects the 'fitment'... is obviously, someone upgrading will probably want to increase their tread width., and treadwidth is NOT the contact patch on the ground as many would believe, but the distance measured from one sidewall to the other sidewall. Although in most cases, this is proportional to the tread contact patch.
So, as you know.... if you increase the width of the rim and increase the width of the tire, you risk a number of things. In front and rear.
You risk :
front ----- 1) tire rubbing against fender lip on the outside 2) tire rubbing against wheel well on the inside 3) rim not clearing the brake calipers. 4) tire rubbing the upper suspension member.
rear ---- 1) same as above. 2) same as above. 3) same as above. 4) for a TT, you have to make sure that it clears the HICAS linkages if you haven't eliminated it all
Sometimes, even the SHAPE of the rims (not the rim itself, but the 'face' of the rim, will help or hinder in this fitment process. Some rims kind of bulge out in their design. So, with the same offset, and the same width, the design will easily clear a larger brake caliper set-up then say... stock.
Then again, another design (which is rarer), that has the spokes beveling inwards, would actually be WORSE then stock for clearing the calipers given the same rim width and offset.
Personally... I'm not a huge fan of using spacers to help a rim fit for clearance but its a common practice and has been proven over and over to not cause problems if done properly.
If you do use spacers, make sure you use good spacers and switch to a longer wheel stud such as the ones Nismo offers.
I have seen someone with 285's in the rear with no rubbing, but I have seen someone with 265's in the rear... w/ rubbing. The offset and rim width places a pretty tricky roll in getting a proper fittment.
With the stock brakes a 45mm offset will allow running of a 285 series tire on a 10 inch wide rim.
Some light contact on the plastic fuel filler shield on the drivers side but it is very light and of no consequence.
With 17 inch wheels you are stuck to 9.5 inches and near 30mm of offset in the rear because the HICAS link will hit the inner wheel lip if you go wider or more inboard. Certain styles of 17x10" wheels can be run by shaving off part of the HICAS link. That gives the clearance needed, although it's not recommended. With 18 inch wheels you can go wider and more inboard because the larger diameter of the wheel allows the HICAS link to ride inboard of the wheel.
When choosing the rear offset be aware the HICAS causes the rear wheel to turn. This makes clearance between the inner rim and lower control arm near the leading edge of the arm critical. More than 45mm inboard offset is not possible because it will contact under HICAS operation. Depending on how much the rim lip sticks out it may contact lightly which can be easily solved by slightly bending the hemmed flange of the lower control arm carefully with a small crescent wrench. It is only a light rub so the wheel won't get torn off the car. But, rubbing certainly isn't a good thing.
On non HICAS cars this isn't an issue and 50mm of offset can even be run.
It sounds terribly complicated but it is really quite simple to run very wide wheels in the back. I have seen 10.5" wheels with simply a rolled fender.
Also....had this saved from a few years back....
MINIMUM offsets (limited by maximum frontspacing of 3.12 F, 3.41 R):- front:7.5 width -> +168.0 width -> +238.5 width -> +299.0 width -> +359.5 width -> +42
- rear:8.5 width -> +229.0 width -> +289.5 width -> +3410.0 width -> +39
MAXIMUM offsets (limited by maximum backspacing of 6.0 F, 6.42 R with 17 wheels, and 6.0 F, 6.77 R with 18 wheels):
- front:7.5 width -> +578.0 width -> +508.5 width -> +449.0 width -> +389.5 width -> +31(note that MAX < MIN for this width; i have not seen any reported successful use of this size in front!)
- rear:17x8.5 -> +5517x9.0 -> +4817x9.5 -> +4217x10.0 -> +36 (note that MAX < MIN for this width, though i have seen one report of successful use of 17x10 +41 with no clearance issues)
18x85_>+6418x9.0 -> +5718x95_>+5118x10.0 -> +45
Anyway, I'm sure that's an overwhelming amount of info, hopefully some of it helps you out
Offset, is the measured distance between the center line of the rim to the mount point of the rim. We have positive offset on Z32 rims. The more negative offset, the more of the depth... the more positive, the more the center piece protrudes out in relation to the centerline of the rim.
If you are JUST considering the rims... you would be making a mistake.
Depending on the + taken on the rims (+1 to get 17", or +2 to get 18"), do a corresponding drop in the tire profile to compensate. Depending on how much compensation with the tire profile... it's possible to bring the total diameter back to stock wheel (tire and rim combo) levels.
That's ONE aspect.... and how that affects the 'fitment'... is obviously, someone upgrading will probably want to increase their tread width., and treadwidth is NOT the contact patch on the ground as many would believe, but the distance measured from one sidewall to the other sidewall. Although in most cases, this is proportional to the tread contact patch.
So, as you know.... if you increase the width of the rim and increase the width of the tire, you risk a number of things. In front and rear.
You risk :
front ----- 1) tire rubbing against fender lip on the outside 2) tire rubbing against wheel well on the inside 3) rim not clearing the brake calipers. 4) tire rubbing the upper suspension member.
rear ---- 1) same as above. 2) same as above. 3) same as above. 4) for a TT, you have to make sure that it clears the HICAS linkages if you haven't eliminated it all
Sometimes, even the SHAPE of the rims (not the rim itself, but the 'face' of the rim, will help or hinder in this fitment process. Some rims kind of bulge out in their design. So, with the same offset, and the same width, the design will easily clear a larger brake caliper set-up then say... stock.
Then again, another design (which is rarer), that has the spokes beveling inwards, would actually be WORSE then stock for clearing the calipers given the same rim width and offset.
Personally... I'm not a huge fan of using spacers to help a rim fit for clearance but its a common practice and has been proven over and over to not cause problems if done properly.
If you do use spacers, make sure you use good spacers and switch to a longer wheel stud such as the ones Nismo offers.
I have seen someone with 285's in the rear with no rubbing, but I have seen someone with 265's in the rear... w/ rubbing. The offset and rim width places a pretty tricky roll in getting a proper fittment.
With the stock brakes a 45mm offset will allow running of a 285 series tire on a 10 inch wide rim.
Some light contact on the plastic fuel filler shield on the drivers side but it is very light and of no consequence.
With 17 inch wheels you are stuck to 9.5 inches and near 30mm of offset in the rear because the HICAS link will hit the inner wheel lip if you go wider or more inboard. Certain styles of 17x10" wheels can be run by shaving off part of the HICAS link. That gives the clearance needed, although it's not recommended. With 18 inch wheels you can go wider and more inboard because the larger diameter of the wheel allows the HICAS link to ride inboard of the wheel.
When choosing the rear offset be aware the HICAS causes the rear wheel to turn. This makes clearance between the inner rim and lower control arm near the leading edge of the arm critical. More than 45mm inboard offset is not possible because it will contact under HICAS operation. Depending on how much the rim lip sticks out it may contact lightly which can be easily solved by slightly bending the hemmed flange of the lower control arm carefully with a small crescent wrench. It is only a light rub so the wheel won't get torn off the car. But, rubbing certainly isn't a good thing.
On non HICAS cars this isn't an issue and 50mm of offset can even be run.
It sounds terribly complicated but it is really quite simple to run very wide wheels in the back. I have seen 10.5" wheels with simply a rolled fender.
Also....had this saved from a few years back....
MINIMUM offsets (limited by maximum frontspacing of 3.12 F, 3.41 R):- front:7.5 width -> +168.0 width -> +238.5 width -> +299.0 width -> +359.5 width -> +42
- rear:8.5 width -> +229.0 width -> +289.5 width -> +3410.0 width -> +39
MAXIMUM offsets (limited by maximum backspacing of 6.0 F, 6.42 R with 17 wheels, and 6.0 F, 6.77 R with 18 wheels):
- front:7.5 width -> +578.0 width -> +508.5 width -> +449.0 width -> +389.5 width -> +31(note that MAX < MIN for this width; i have not seen any reported successful use of this size in front!)
- rear:17x8.5 -> +5517x9.0 -> +4817x9.5 -> +4217x10.0 -> +36 (note that MAX < MIN for this width, though i have seen one report of successful use of 17x10 +41 with no clearance issues)
18x85_>+6418x9.0 -> +5718x95_>+5118x10.0 -> +45
Anyway, I'm sure that's an overwhelming amount of info, hopefully some of it helps you out
Re: Aftermarket Wheel Range (nsrZ32)
Bingo, thanks. That list at the bottom was perfect.
I know how to check offsets manually on the thing, but my car is stored right now and I knew a list had to be floatin around somewhere.
I know how to check offsets manually on the thing, but my car is stored right now and I knew a list had to be floatin around somewhere.