Aftermarket Traction Control?

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nismo1003
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after I read up something about the aftermarket traction control, I heard they helped quit a bit for high whp car, I just finish turbo my Nissan Alty, it's a FWD car, but fun to drive.my main concern is traction ,even thou it done'st make so much whp as those high performance car (600-700hp), but I alreadyI started losting traction at 5000Rpm at 1st and 2nd .Let's back to the topic , I have an opion to install the ABS system in my car, but the way that they design for this system is kind of scary me a bit. they actually stop the pulse of the injector if they sense the wheel spinning faster than it supppose to be, I have a after market force induction, by stopping the injector working means leaning my car , I dont know if it would mess up the fuel setup I had, i only use a Piggyback to control my fuel system . I thought the way for the traciton control is that if they sense there's a spin (by the ABS SENSOR) then the computer will applied to the brake untill it stop spinning (until it grip the road again). It's just my thought. Also , I read up something about the Eletronic Limited Slip differential by Audi. It's also relate to the brake system. would anyone enlighten about how traction control work exactly and how many ways are there . is it possible to do it to a 240? Alty? any possible way?

here is the article about the "aftermarket Traction control"http://www.racelogic.co.uk/


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PROJECTRB240SX
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ABS IS ONLY A TRACTION CONTROL MEASURE WHILE UNDER HEAVY BRAKING. IT PULSES THE BRAKES RAPIDLY SO THAT THE TIRES ODN'T LOCK-UP AND SLIDE. IT SHOULD HAVE NOTHING TO DO WITH THE ENGINE AT ALL.

nismo1003
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I was talking about " traction control" as in like when you launch and spin out then the traction control should stop the spin out untill it grip the road(normal condition) , not ABS , i do know how ABS works,thanx anyways

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PROJECTRB240SX
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SO BASICALLY YOU WOULD WANT TO FIND A WAY TO RIG THE ABS SYSTEM UP TO BE FULL-TIME..... WHICH COULD BE POTENTIALLY PERFORMANCE HAMPERING.

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Grant@tirerack
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Well, I just read through the whole website and there is no specific information about how their system 'works'. I would want to get a lot more specific information from them about how this bad boy works and how it would be matched to your car/fuel system. Working up a system from the ground up with an O.E. car and adapting this to a different car in the aftermarket are a whole other ball of wax.

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Dori Dori
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A friend of mine had this on his E36 M3. He said it really only helped in the rain. All in all, he didn't like it.

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Grant@tirerack
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Did he have any specifics on how it functions? I'd be very curious to see how this is set up.

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Dori Dori
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It worked off stock stuff...that's all I remember. I seem to remember his car having some type of pre-existing traction control that this box overrides. I'll try to get in touch with him to see if he remembers any details (he sold his car and got a E46).

deezlins
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just get a limited slip and learn to control the car wellbtw, in drag racing and stuff, traction control usually hurts performance

gabossie
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There are traction control devices that retard timing or stop the injector from pulsing, but I can't see the latter of these two being a good thing in forced induction. Both work by sensing wheel spin and then reducing the amount of power you're putting to the wheels so you can basically slam the pedal down and not worry, because it will do the work for you. Obviously with forced induction, you don't want something that stops the injector from firing unless you're looking for an effective way of causing detonation :pface

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Dori Dori
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Pulling timing would be a much better (safer) alternative. It would just cause nice fireballs when it came back. :pface

nismo1003
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exactly, that's really not a good design to Force induction car to me. I was thinking just applied the brake when it sense there's a spin out .

markbuts3
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The Racelogic sysem works by stopping the injector from firing to reduce power.You can also get a coil interface for non injected cars to cut the spark...causing a misfire..

From the website.....

Fuel CutThe idea of cutting fuel to an engine sets alarm bells ringing in engine builders, as they all know of the potential disaster of a high revving race engine running lean. Running in a lean combustion mode will elevate in-cylinder temperatures very rapidly, the denser the air/fuel charge, the more heat the lean burn can generate. Therefore it is vital that a fuel cut system will not cause a lean burn.

The simplest way of preventing a lean burn is to remove more than 50% of the fuel from the pulsed delivery. A mixture will only ignite if the air/fuel ratio is within a tightly defined window, look at the efforts being put into making lean burn engines fire on very low air/fuel ratios (1:20 or more). Removing more than 50% of the fuel will cause an air fuel ratio of over 1:25 and will result in a complete miss-fire, with the unburned fuel passing out through the exhaust valve. Even if a high air/fuel ratio did manage to ignite, the energy available from the amount of petrol injected wouldn't be enough to elevate temperatures significantly. Of course the ideal system will remove 100% of the pulsed fuel delivery, allowing the cylinder to take a gulp of fresh air, and the in-cylinder temperature would remain virtually unaffected.

Prolonged fuel cut on one particular cylinder would cause scavenging of the petrol lining the inlet tracts, and when the next full fuel pulse arrived, it would be partially reduced in quantity by the re-wetting of these tracts. Therefore it is often important to manage a rotation of the cylinder cutting to prevent this situation from occurring.

Spark cutCutting the spark to an engine will stop any chances of a weak mixture occurring, but it carries it's own potential problems due to a large quantity of unburned fuel travelling through the cylinder and out of the exhaust. This petrol can remove some of the oil lining the inside of the cylinder, and pass it thorough the exhaust, again this only becomes a problem if the fuel to one particular cylinder is cut for an extended time. The best way to overcome this is to rotate the order in which the cylinders are cut.

The unburned fuel in the exhaust will have a catastrophic affect if there is a catalytic converter in the exhaust, as it will try to convert the unburned fuel to harmless elements, effectively burning the mixture. This causes the catalytic converter to heat up very rapidly, reaching temperatures in excess of 1000°C, and possibly melting down completely. Thus prolonged spark cut is not recommended for catalytic equipped cars.


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