aftermarket subwoofer/amp recommendations for 2007 Infiniti M35 Sport

[rshivdat]

Hello all,

I have an 07 M35 Sport. I opted out of getting the Bose system, could not justify the additional cost for what I was getting.

I've gone to several local shops in the Orlando FL area and have had various installations scenarios run by me. I'm trying to avoid having a permanent fiberglass enclosure put in, so as I can remove when I'm ready to sell the car.

I don't want anything huge mayb a single 12" or 2 10" or maybe a single 10" sub. I'd like to have the enclosure to be as stealth as possible behind the seat in the trunk.

Any suggestions would be appreciated with photos if possible. Also if you have recommendations for installers in the Orlando area that would be great. I've been to Ultimate Audio, Audio Excellence (2 different locations) and circuity city (last resort).

Ravi

[JOHNNYM35]

I think ull be happier with 2 10" rather then 1 12", I have a power series T8002 amp. and 2 12" punch series P312 and I have them in an ported box ill get pictures to put up, it sounds niceI I thought 2 12" would be to much vibration but it sounds real good it has the nice long bass and the thump that everybody wants and its not to much bass just the right amount.

[rshivdat]

Thanks Johnny. That's the kind of info I need. 2 10"'s would be preferred also. What's key for me also is the enclosure, I'd like to have it take up the front part of the trunk. You know, right behind the seat and then stop right where the trunk expands out to the right and left so that I still have the larger part of the trunk for normal usage.

I'm trying to go as stealth as possible.

I just wish I can find some installs for our car on the web.

Ravi

[lswaidz]

Take a look at Jon's website...

http://www.jonconley.com/InfinitiM45.html

He has an '03, but he's done some awesome installs w/ that car. It should give you an idea. If you like rock though, go w/ 3 8's, rap can do a single 12" or 2 10's... amp them right, go class D mono... you'll probably want to swap out the stock fronts too and amp those.

Lance

[rshivdat]

Thanks for the link. For equipment I will be going with JL Audio amps and speakers. For this first phase I think a JL 500/1 Mono amp will work with the proposed W3v3 10" speakers, whether they be 1 or 2 subs.

Phase 2 will be to upgrade the interior door and dash speakers with JL components powered by a JL 300/4 amp.

Hopefully I won't need to employ the use of an EQ but we will see.

Wow this brings back some memories! My how this type of thing snowballs!

Ravi

[rshivdat]

Well I've decided to go with Kicker components.

1 ZX750.1 mono sub amp2 CVR 10" subs 2-ohm version

Now the problem is the installation. Every shop I've gone to has different opinions. Forward firing Or Rear firing, sealed or ported. Awwww!!

I hear the trunk in the M35 is sealed and is difficult to get the sound into the cabin. I don't know what to do.

[WCCBaLLeR]

You can build a bandpass and have the port come through the Ski hole or the factory sub opening. Bandpass are a little tricky to build and sound boomy if not tuned properly. Otherwise, sealed or ported, you will need to remove the factory sub from the rear deck and have them cut away as much metal as possible to get more air into the cabin. Makes a big difference when the trunk is so sealed from the factory.

Chad

[rshivdat]

Thanks Chad for the input. I don't think I have a factory sub, I didn't go with the Bose system when I bought the car.

Do you think if the sub is not there, the opening still is? This would solve my problem of getting the sound pressure into the cabin I fire the subs facing forward.

Rav

[NO1B4ME]

I a

Thanks Chad for the input. I don't think I have a factory sub, I didn't go with the Bose system when I bought the car.

Do you think if the sub is not there, the opening still is? This would solve my problem of getting the sound pressure into the cabin I fire the subs facing forward.

Rav

Im facing the same problem right now. I just installed a JL500/1 and a 12W7 in my M35 Sport. Man you should have gone with the Bose it sounds freaking Awesome with the sub now. I just have to figure a way to get more sound into the cabin as most of the Bass is staying in the trunk. If you do not have the Bose, you can buy the sub cover and cut out the hole to cover it on the rear deck side.

Well the more I looked at the car and took more pieces out the more things I found to get the Bass into the cabin of the car. I will get you pics if you want. TOmorrow I am finishing it up.
Modified by NO1B4ME at 10:30 PM 9/1/2007

[Mark Linkous]

Hello, God I miss my system. Prior to my M, I had an Acura TL which I pulled out the Blose system. My system consisted of a JL 300/4 feeding Focal 165K2 Component sets, JL 1000/1 driving a 12W7 Prowedge, Alpine Head. I quite honestly tortured myself as to whether or not to reinstall. At first, I had planned to tap the rear speaker leads and simply add the 1000/1 and 12W7. However, this was the same thing I did with the Acura and within a year I had gutted the entire system. Sadly, you actually lose value when you gut OEM systems in luxury cars. Why this is I haven't a clue. Don't get me wrong, if you find the right private party buyer, you can get what you should. Adding bass absolutely changes the foundation of your music. Furthermore, this addition can be easily taken out with no residual damage. That being said, the difference between high end mids/highs versus OEM is staggering. I suppose it comes down to is the juice worth the squeeze. If I did not have a pretty killer home rig, I would have gutted the OEM again. I suppose the only advantage to stock is weight reduction. There has got to be something? Right.Cheers,M.L

[NO1B4ME]

Hello, God I miss my system. Prior to my M, I had an Acura TL which I pulled out the Blose system. My system consisted of a JL 300/4 feeding Focal 165K2 Component sets, JL 1000/1 driving a 12W7 Prowedge, Alpine Head. I quite honestly tortured myself as to whether or not to reinstall. At first, I had planned to tap the rear speaker leads and simply add the 1000/1 and 12W7. However, this was the same thing I did with the Acura and within a year I had gutted the entire system. Sadly, you actually lose value when you gut OEM systems in luxury cars. Why this is I haven't a clue. Don't get me wrong, if you find the right private party buyer, you can get what you should. Adding bass absolutely changes the foundation of your music. Furthermore, this addition can be easily taken out with no residual damage. That being said, the difference between high end mids/highs versus OEM is staggering. I suppose it comes down to is the juice worth the squeeze. If I did not have a pretty killer home rig, I would have gutted the OEM again. I suppose the only advantage to stock is weight reduction. There has got to be something? Right.Cheers,M.L

Mark,

You are in my neck of the woods ... I think a JL1000/1 is too much for this car unless you plan to upgrade electrical componenets and the rest of the system. I just wanted to add some Bass to my Bose system so i keep all my functionality as the steering wheel control, bluetoooth, etc...

[Mark Linkous]

S.W FL unite. I agree about the steering wheel controls. I missed them something fierce. Really did. Tried an aftermarket interface (SWIX I think) but was not the same. You are dead on about the 1000/1 as well. On my TL, I had to upgrade the alternator, battery, add capacitors...etc. Was still good without since it is a digital switching amp, but gosh was there a difference. For me, I was afraid of opening Pandora's Box when it came to swapping out. In fact, I parted out my old system ASAP just to avoid the palpable temptation.CheersMark

[NO1B4ME]

S.W FL unite. I agree about the steering wheel controls. I missed them something fierce. Really did. Tried an aftermarket interface (SWIX I think) but was not the same. You are dead on about the 1000/1 as well. On my TL, I had to upgrade the alternator, battery, add capacitors...etc. Was still good without since it is a digital switching amp, but gosh was there a difference. For me, I was afraid of opening Pandora's Box when it came to swapping out. In fact, I parted out my old system ASAP just to avoid the palpable temptation.CheersMark

Mark,

I put in a 12W6v2 in the 12W7 prowedge enclosure with the JL500/1 with the remote Bass knob. It soundsi ncredible and it is light as well. The 12W7 weighs 2x the W6v2.

Now I am working on removing the rear oem crappy sub to get more sound into the cabin of the car.

[InfinitiMe]

I have an 06 M35x.

Got the 8 speaker Bose, and i'd like to just add a sub & amp (for the sub). Does the M35's audio receiver require any modification/upgrade before this? Or can I just get the two and have them installed?

[NO1B4ME]

I have an 06 M35x.

Got the 8 speaker Bose, and i'd like to just add a sub & amp (for the sub). Does the M35's audio receiver require any modification/upgrade before this? Or can I just get the two and have them installed?

I just did this after searching on the net for days with NO luck. What I would recommend is a JL 500/1 and a 12W6. This is ALL the bass you will need. It is too much for the Bose system, but dialed in it sounds incredible. If you are interested in a JL500/1 i have one for sale as i bought 2 thinking i would use them...

[InfinitiMe]

I just did this after searching on the net for days with NO luck. What I would recommend is a JL 500/1 and a 12W6. This is ALL the bass you will need. It is too much for the Bose system, but dialed in it sounds incredible. If you are interested in a JL500/1 i have one for sale as i bought 2 thinking i would use them...

Thanks for the reply.

I'm actually wanting to go with a W7. I had a feeling what you said was going to be true (bass too much for the bose) so I was thinking of just getting like the 10"

How much are you asking for the amp?

[spearm35]

NO1B4MEI have a few questions on the installation.1) Did you use the rear speaker outputs from the Bose amp to get the sound signals to the new amp? if yes, did you use a line converter or your tap it with out the need to reduce the signal.2) What is the color of the acc power wire on the existing bose amp. I believe the manual says BR. Is this "brown". There are a few.3) Did you have to remove the rear seat to have access to run the power wire to the battery. I looked at not doing this and it may be imposible as it is very tight.Any other tips are appreciated. I am planning to do the install during the holidaysthanks Spear