Aftermarket Sound system replacement

[wisehunter1]

Hey sorry if this was asked before but I am about to replace my audio system in my 02 QX4 and I just have a few questions before I begin everything.
I purchased:
Power Acoustik PTID-7002NR head unit
Hifonics 6.5in components
HIfonics 6.5in 3-way speakers
Jensen 4 channel 760 watt amp
4 channel amp installation kit
antenna adapter
scoshe dash kit
16 gauge speaker wire

Will I need to get a infiniti wiring harness for my new head unit or should I solder the factory wires to the connections on the back of the headunit (reverse, brake, acc, orange illum connections)

I noticed that the previous owner had an aftermarket amp installed but took the amp out and left the wiring before selling it. The wiring is already hooked up to the battery, grounded, etc; so I plan on hooking the amp to the existing wiring but replacing the fuse holder.

Also since I am removing the bose speakers/amps is there anything else I will need to remove.
I am prepared to rewire speakers through the doors but is there any possibility of using the existing speaker wiring from the stock system?

Thanks alot everyone!

[miamiheat3332]

Get a factory harness adapter that way you dont hack up the factory harnesses, and then the wires that come out of those,

Use male spade connectors on one wire, and female spade connector on the other wire, crimp them on, and then electrical tape around it

Its professionaly done then, because if you need to take it out and disconnect it for some reason, you just take off the electrical tape and pull apart the connection, then you can reattach it, put electrical tape back over it, and your good to go.

I did my full sound system install the middle of December, and let me tell you this isnt a 5 hour job if you want it professionaly done.

It took me about a good 18 hours doing everything at a slower pace, taking breaks to eat and stuff in between, doing everything right, and making sure it was done right, and lo and behold the first time i powered it on, everything worked perfect.

Heres my post, read through it, it will help you out.

full-sound-system-install-lots-of-photos-t518024.html

[Empty V]

I would solder and heat shrink instead of the spade connectors. IMO a crimp connection is one step above electrical taping 2 wires together. Another crimp connection and then connecting those 2 together and you've got 3 failure points per wire. Soldering is undoubtably the most pro and thorough way to do it. If you replace it just cut and re-solder.

[wisehunter1]

Thank yall for the quick and helpful responses. I will report back after I begin the installation.

[fueler]

did u already buy the stuff?

jensen is low-end car audio, very overrated. They sell that stuff at kragen - and a general rule of thumb is that all car audio stuff at car parts stores usually sucks. theres no such thing as an 800 watt amp for a hundred bucks.


the rest of your list looks fine - what gauge amp install kit are you buying? i suggest at least 4 gauge (in case you upgrade amps in the future which is always a possibility)

[wisehunter1]

did u already buy the stuff?

jensen is low-end car audio, very overrated. They sell that stuff at kragen - and a general rule of thumb is that all car audio stuff at car parts stores usually sucks. theres no such thing as an 800 watt amp for a hundred bucks.


the rest of your list looks fine - what gauge amp install kit are you buying? i suggest at least 4 gauge (in case you upgrade amps in the future which is always a possibility)

I'm on a pretty tight budget and imo it is the suitable amp for this project. It's CEA compliant and had had satisfactory reviews on some online stores which is fine enough for me. I just ordered 8 gauge since that's the minimum recommended gauge for the amp.. and since I don't like too much bass I don't foresee me adding on subs/amps. I think I'll be content with this. Thanks for your help!

[fueler]

I don't foresee me adding on subs/amps. I think I'll be content with this. Thanks for your help!

haha thats what they all say!!

good luck on the install & let us know how it goes!

[Empty V]

this is not going to end well.

[Chuck Tribolet]

I would solder and heat shrink instead of the spade connectors. IMO a crimp connection is one step above electrical taping 2 wires together. Another crimp connection and then connecting those 2 together and you've got 3 failure points per wire. Soldering is undoubtably the most pro and thorough way to do it. If you replace it just cut and re-solder.

Solder and heat shrink is my favorite, however GOOD crimps done with a GOOD crimp tool can be pretty good. The
crimps and tools you get from the autoparts or HW store are junky. Boating stores sell a marine-grade brand called Ancor
that's good. A good ratcheting crimp tool will set you back $50, and you'll need two, one for insulated crimps and one
for noninsulated.

Ancor also makes heat-shrink that's lined with hot-melt glue. Just what the Dr. ordered for outside the cabin of the truck.

Chuck

[wisehunter1]

Thanks for the advice Chuck. Do yall have any preferred places to mount the crossovers for my comps?

[Chuck Tribolet]

Sorry, I'm still running the factory Bose system (less dead CD player, plus FM MP3 player).


Chuck