Yo,

I want to get an aftermarket in-dash nav, preferably a fold-out one. And also one with which I won't lose functionality of the 6 disk changer. Just wondering if anyone has any advice/suggestions? Thanks!

I think that some of the Aftermarket Navs can hook up with the stock Changer , but dont go with a Flip Out . you have to fill the 2nd spot with something else if you do

You have to upgrade to a Double Din kit and buy a JDM A\C controller

I recommend getting a Pioneer AVIC-D3 or AVIC-N2 .. they look really good for the G style .

Ill try to get back to you with a link of what one guy did , where the Flip Up compartment where the OEM NAV are located he put a Flip out one there

___ EDIT ____

Here is the link ,

http://video.google.com/videop...87644

Not really a fan of this one , it requires a extra MINIPC in the trunk

Man the guy forgot about the road for a bit. You can hear the tire squeaking.

Zozoka

How was he driving .....

One hand on NAV , one hand of steering wheel ... is he holding the camera in his shoulder and chin?????

probably the cam was hanging on his neck.

Zozoka

Don't get a fold out, you will regret it in the G. As Gimli said, you'll need to upgrade to DD if you want to go aftermarket, and its kinda costly to do so. I'll make the same recommendations as he did on head units because they have a great GUI and they sit flush, so it will look good. Now if you want your nav on a different screen, like where the OEM screen would be, you can get a kit that will motor the screen up and then get a remote-mount nav system.

had to find this link

http://www.grubbsperformance.c....html

everything for DD , i heard bad things about the Eclipse Unit , because it doesnt come with a trim piece ( which you will need to make it flush) ..you have to buy it

Smockers83 helped me out greatly in this area. I wanted originally just to install the OEM Nav unit but when I saw how much it would run me I asked for help and Smockers pointed me towards some cool ideas. Now I have all the stuff in the mail and will be getting it installed soon. Got a remote Nav unit, DD DVD HU and a second monitor from mp3car.com. The Alpine Nav unit I got fits ALMOST perfectly in the glove box where the OEM one goes but it gets a little narrow towards the back. I'm looking at possibly cutting it a little bit to fit it in the perfectly.

Yeah, I went with Kenwood on mine. I know most people go with the AVIC-D3 I guess mostly cause of the ability to make the lights orange? But I want to change the color of all the lights inside anyway and I like how the Kenwood that I got will play wma and divx too, the pioneer avic I don't believe does. Now I am just trying to find the Black Box brake bypass module.

The Avic - n2 is actually HDD i think , thats a PLUS .. no more DISCS!!

Opps .. let me restate that .. wrong system lol ,, thats the flip out ...

I think its the AVIC- Z2 -- HDD , and hackable

Hmm... I didn't see that one I don't think. Ugh... oh no, now I am going into second guess mode. I should go to sleep now since I have to be up so early. That's a good excuse not to look it up. LMAO

Good to hear Addiction, get all that in and let me know how you like the setup because I've been wanting to do the same to mine when I find time. You'll be fine with the Kenwood, don't worry about it haha. Just think about it this way, you didn't buy 2 nav systems and I don't think you can't rip MP3s on to the hard drive anyway, without hacking it apparently. Just make an MP3 CD and you'll have like 10 hours of music.

or an iPod

Oh yeah, I got a 30 gig mp3 player, plus i could also always rip mp3 dvds and play them.

Hey smockers, I lost which thread it was so I can't quote it, but I was just reading last night on here that I am going to have to replace all of my speakers too cause the bose use a funky 6 ohm wire?! Tell me it isn't so...

Not true...the speakers themselves are rated at 6 ohms compared to the standard 4 ohms of aftermarket speakers. But I didn't even think about this part, you will have to bypass the Bose amp that is in the car. You should be able to find a wire harness at a car stereo shop unless you bought it from Crutchfield, they give it to you for free. The only thing the speakers will do is present more of a load, or resistance, to your HU (I won't go into detail). I've never really looked into this since I've never dealt with Bose systems, but I'm pretty sure (90% positive) you should be fine.

Actually, you could go into detail, I don't understand cars but electronics, that's different. That I get, it's a part of my job, in the army.

Well if you know electronics, you know ohms is the load a resistor places on an electrical source...same thing goes for speakers. If you send 22 watts thru a 6 ohm speaker, it'll show more resistance, requiring more power to play at the same output than a 4 ohm speaker. With car amps and subs, people use 2 ohm, 4 ohm, or even 8 ohm subs and amps are generally rated at 4 ohms; in the past few years they've given RMS ratings at 2 ohms as well. The RMS on your HU is based on 4 ohms. A 4 ohm load compared to a 2 ohm load will require twice as many watts, or at 22 watts RMS, if it were perfectly efficient, the 2 ohm speaker would see 44 watts (6 ohms would see about .25 times less, so 16.5 watts). But the resistance of the speaker varies all the time, its never a constant.

The OEM wires will be fine, the only reason you'd need to change those is if you beefed up the power supply significantly (would have to go to a smaller gauge and speakers that could handle it) or just wanted to upgrade to higher quality.

I don't know if that's exactly right, but I think it is...just kind of going from memory on things that I haven't done in awhile. I should be going to school for engineering instead of economics........

Great, thanks guys... this has been helpful... I'll let you know if I have more questions after I go out and start looking.

Ah, ok, see, I didn't know the specifics or the industry standards for HU's and speakers. Thanks for coming through once again Smockers, you are great.

So, I went and took a look today at some Navs. I really like the Kenwood... the USB capabilities is pretty sweet, and not having to use disks is also great. D3 is cool too, and the fact that it's cheaper is definitely a plus. Anyone have any experience with the Kenwood vs. the D3? It would be between those 2 right now. In your guys' opinion, would the Kenwood be worth the extra $400?

Also, which parts exactly will I need? The DD bracket, DD Finisher, and the DD A/C Control? Do I need all of those, or just the bracket and A/C control?

So... it's looking to be about $1600 - $2000 for everything... does that sound about right?

Thanks for the help!