After replacing the water pump, my 1993 Infiniti wont run!!??

[grandberry63]

I recently had my waterpump on my J30 crack and break.... I am a student and dont have much money.... I parked the car, and then drove it to my home a few blocks away, the engine was running fine, despite the fact that the waterpump was hanging off......

A (shadetree mechanic) neighbor did me a favor by replacing the water pump, clutch fan and fan on my 1993 J30. I dont think that he touched the timing belt, I heard him say that they didnt want to mess up the timing....

He disconnected the battery, and replaced the waterpump, and refilled the radiator and then charged up the battery.

I turned the key to start the car, and the engine cranks, then turns over with the engine running really rough for a few seconds until it stall outs, like it's out of gas.

I dont know if its the security system that is not letting the engine get gas? Or do I need to replace the timing belt?

HELP ME PLEASE!!!

[Infinitiguy19]

I think you reaaaaaaly f***ed up your J30.

You had the car running with no water pump?

Did he replace the coolant with coolant or water?

What does the temprature gauge say for a temp whenj the car runs for a few seconds?

First thing you want to do now is take it to a mechanic to have the coolant system pressure tested to see if it hold any pressure, if it does'nt your engine is toast.

Hard earned lesson about shade tree mechanice, I am sorry you had to learn this way.

Read the service manual so you can begin to understand the car you drive: http://Nicoclub.com/FSM/J30

Welcome to NICO.

[kbflip02]

try the flooding procedure...basically repressurize the fuel system...then see how that goes...other then that check the codes...

[yodawill2000]

FYI the flooding procedure is holding the pedal to the Floor while cranking.

Welcome to NICO and good luck !!

[grandberry63]

Yes, he did replace the fluid with coolant, I bought it.. and I have tried the flooding procedure, it made it run for a few more seconds that it did before...

And yes, I really f*cked up!

[grandberry63]

The crazy thing is... the engine sounded ok BEFORE he worked on it... Im wondering if the timing belt is off to make it run so raggedy and cut off!??

[grandberry63]

I LOVE my car, it's FAST...dark green with creamy peanut butter leather interior, if the engine is toast, I'd have another put in, how much will that run$$??

[GerryO]

I LOVE my car, it's FAST...dark green with creamy peanut butter leather interior, if the engine is toast, I'd have another put in, how much will that run$$??

Don't go there just yet, as someone would probably gladly sell you a new engine and install it for you. The really good news is that the engine still turns over.

A cracked water pump should have caused a coolant BIG leak. Did the engine overheat when you drove it that short distance? Any signs of coolant in the oil?

Your mechanic had to do more than disconnect the battery and replace the water pump. He should have disconnected any number of hoses and electrical fittings too. Pull some codes. I know from experience that the engine will not start with the TPS disconnected and it won't run long with the MAF not in place and connected. Don't know about temperature sensors in the area.

[SteveTheTech]

Several key sensors and rubber hoses need to be disconnected and all the components are brittle under the hood given the age.

Not setting the timing belt up correctly is the leading cause of premature VG30 death.

Whatever you do do not crank it anymore until you verify the timing is correct

You need to align the TDC timing mark and cylinder 1 on the compression stroke. Make sure you turn it over by hand using a long breaker bar. If there is an resistance stop and have it professionally evaluated.

[grandberry63]

I had just bought the car in December for $2000..

It WAS a big leak, I didnt have AAA towing service and I was parked in a parking lot that was about to close up...so I tried to drive it home.

The car DID overheat, and I would stop to pour water in the radiator in vain and then slowly drive it some more until all of the red warning lights went on in the dash *brake, high beam etc.* and then the car cut off while I was waiting for the light to change in the intersection

It was late at night, with just me and my 12 yr old trying to push the car, but we got it pushed over to the curb and parked it. The next day, the engine fired right up and I drove it 1 block to my backyard.

After that, my neighbors started working on the waterpump... I paid them $400 for the job, which was a lot cheaper than the $1000 that I was quoted by a gas station.. (I thought) After the water pump was on, it wouldnt start!!???

It would turn over, but wouldnt run... I checked the oil, no signs of water in the oil (been there, done THAT before)

I had the car towed to a reliable mechanic shop last Friday.... He wouldnt even look at the car at first, telling us that HE KNOWS that the engine has to be TOAST>>. He called me back later that evening, and said that the timing may have slipped and that the valves are BENT, asked me if I wanted to junk it? "NOPE........" \

I feel like I might need an second opinion, and Im not sure which way to go if I do, try to buy a new crate motor? A used 300zx motor? a rebuilt one? Buy another J30 since I like it so much?

I dont know how to check for the timing and those possibly loose connections, but Ive got plenty of time now to find out...lol

Some people tell me to bring her back to life by replacing the engine, some say it's not worth it, it would be cheaper to buy another bucket and part my J30 out... Im torn. I loved the car, not really ready to part with this heap of metal yet...

I REALLY APPRECIATE YOU GUYS HELP!!! THANK YOU VERY MUCH!

Modified by grandberry63 at 12:56 PM 3/16/2009
Modified by grandberry63 at 1:04 PM 3/16/2009

[coolyun_98]

I feel your frustration. I still remembered the problems I ran into when I restored my 93 J30. I will try my best to offer you some tips.

I will start from the easiest thing first:

1) check all electrical connectorsMake sure that all electrical connectors are making contacts. Clean off all oxidation with no-residual cleaner.

2) any ECU code?

3) Do a compression test. Bent valves will cause a low compression.

4) Maybe it is just the headgasket that leaks coolant into the engine. That can cause the engine to run rough (hydro locking). Try to rave the engine a bit after start?

[qship96]

Buy another well kept j30, and keep your non running one for parts to keep the new one going. Not worth expense to swap motor when you can find another J in good condition for so little money.

[grandberry63]

I dont know what ECU code is, & Im not all mechanically inclined, but Im willing to learn....I dont have a code reading machine, dont know how to use it... I can check to see what is not connected, I may have to remove some stuff on the engine to see it.

I can check to see if anyone has a coolant pressure machine...

Thanks!

[Ebbtide]

Strange enough, I read this thread before bed and had a dream about it.

Couple things you need to find out:

Most important, are the vavles bent. You need to get a compression test to find out for sure. If they are, nothing else you do will matter since the engine is toast.

Are all the connection ok

Is the timing correct, if not are the valves bent.

Go buy a code reader, or rent one from auto zone etc. They come with instructions, if not, there is a port under the dash by the steering wheel. Plug it in, turn the ignition two clicks, and press read. It will show some codes (P0301 etc) and check back here.

If the motor is really toasted and the valves are bent you might as well throw caution to the wind. Try to start it and keep it running by feathering the gas. As it starts to stall tap the pedal and get the rpms high enough to prevent it from shutting down (RPM should do it). Keep them up for couple minutes and slowly ease off the gas as see if it maintains an idle and runs smooth.

Anyway, get the compression test (your mechanic should have said he did this, if not, he is just guessing the valves are bent). It should cost less than 100 bucks at a garage and would be part of a diagnostic.

Since it ran fine after it overheated I doubt you burned up the motor. With all the warning lights coming on I think there might have been way too much water around the alternator and electric connections.

As long as your shade tree guy did not move the belt off the cams your timing whould be fine. If your guy can do a water pump I assume he would now better. I'd also go and beat his a** if he did.

[GerryO]

Relax and begin by looking for simple things that could be wrong, such as unconnected or mis-connected vacuum lines and wires.

After I replaced my water pump, timing and accessory belts, front oil seals, etc, I started the engine with the intake ducting off the car. The engine started and ran (not very well) for about a minute, before it died (no air going through/sensed by the MAF and communicated to the ECM=no fuel and spark).

Months later after I pulled my plenum and replaced the EGR valve, PCV valves, six injectors, the spark plugs, cleaned the MAF, throttle bodies and EGR tubes, when I first tried to start the engine it wouldn't even crank. I hadn't connected a hidden connector in the area of the battery. The engine started, but didn't run quite right. It took me a bit longer to figure out that I'd switched the driver's side O2 sensor and KS connections, and that my plenum positioning helper hadn't connected a vacuum line in back of the engine.

Learn how to pull codes accessing and using the ECM. You don't even need to start the engine to do it. Get your mechanic to help and to check his work.