Hi folks,

I've tried to search the forums for a specific solution to my problem but could not find any post that relate directly to my issue with my 2009 Nissan Rogue.

INCIDENT:
I hit a coyote last week and it hit the front passenger side of my car. There was no major damage to the bumper but I could definitely hear part of it's body(probably a bone or it's skull) hit the bottom of my car. I drove it for a bit and when I stopped to inspect the car I could clearly see coolant coming out the bottom. I drove on the local rural highway for about another 10 minutes thinking the leak wasn't that bad but when the check engine light came on and the engine started to get really hot, I pulled over, called a tow truck which delivered me back to my condo. To get the car back to my underground parking space I filled it with water, it started and got it back to the space without any issues.

INSPECTION:
After getting under the hood, the damage was on the passenger side AC condenser and Radiator mounts. The Condenser was bent and pushed in because the animal must of hit the area where the condenser mount was(it broke off one side of the mount from the frame). This caused a break to occur on the rad mount where the coolant was leaking from. I inspected the hoses and head gasket and nothing look to have overheated or caused a problem. The radiator mount was not damaged. The vehicles underbelly is kinda rusted and the car is coming up to its last days, it just recently reached 200k.

REPAIR:
Since my AC compressor was already not working I simply repaired the condenser mountand then bending back the condenser so it sat in its mounts. I checked the condenser lines and there was enough play on them that they didn't break. Ordered a new rad and rubber mounts ( a set of 4 rubber mounts cost $80.00 from Nissan!!). Replaced the rad (this was not my first rad replacement) and coolant, I started the car without any problems. It ran fine and I drove it around for about 10 minutes without any further leaks or incident. I checked the hoses and felt the coolant going through the system.

ISSUE:
After i had parked the vehicle for about an hour. I decided I would reset the check engine light so I proceeded to get the car into diagnostics mode to reset.(Put the key in the on position, Press the gas 5 times, wait 7 secs, hold the gas 10 secs etc....). After one attempt of unsuccessfully trying to get the car into that mode I attempted to start the car and it would not start. It would turn over and crank but refused to start. I tried this several times while also trying to reset the engine light but the car would not start, nor the light reset. I sounded like it really wanted to start but just doesn't.

DIAGNOSIS:
I did get the car in diagnosis mode but the corresponding code that flashed with the check engine light always reads 0,0,0,0 (first set 10 long flashes, followed by 3 sets of 10 short flashes) indicating that there is no issue. I put an ODBII reader on the vehicle and no codes or faults appear. The battery is good and turning over, the car is cranking (I can see the RPM gauge moving when attempt to start it and can hear it crank) and I exposed the pump(I hear the fuel pump engaging and opened the line and fuel is coming out). I checked all the fuses under the dash and hood and they seems fine(fuel pump, ignition, o2)

So what could be the issue?????? Especially since the car started after the repair?

POTENTIAL:
1.Is the car not getting spark? I opened up the ignition coils and no damage or issues in there, I didn't have a multi meter to test them but why what would cause the car all of a sudden not to have spark??? Is there something with this particular car that would cause this issue? Why would this happen though when it is direct fire without an distributor??

2.BAD ECU. I noticed it didn't start after I failed to get it into diagnostics mode but everything seems to be working. I did perform a manual reset/test on the ECU(press the drivers side door button fast 7 times) and the car does go into the reset/test mode: wipers move, lights flash and fans turn on, but I noticed that this starts a continuous loop and does not stop (the diagnostics keeps repeating itself, wipers start moving again after fans turn off). Last time I've done this test it usually stops after one cycle, it only stops now after I turn the ignition off. But once again what would cause the ECU to all of sudden go bad, are there similar issues to this out there?

So can anyone tell me if they've experience and similar problem and found a solution. Any other things I can try out to diagnose the problem?

thanks!

If after you discovered the problem, and the battery was good, and ALWAYS connected - maybe trying the old school reset, that is draining all power for ( some manuals say 24 hrs, but results occur sooner) long enough to purge "bad stuff" in the ECM that's retained by keeping power applied.

After ALL accessories "off", car shutoff 60 seconds, turn to ON pos. 30seconds - OBSERVE ALL DASH LIGHTS SHOWING PROPERLY because your in LAMP TEST note anything odd. Loosen neg. battery cable and pull quickly & lay safely away & 'not touching anything', turn headlamp to park Lts., step / hold brake for 60+ seconds then release. Leave like this overnight. I like to leave key in on position, having door locks all ready to shut & lock all doors (manually?) . IF you got push button start, pulling battery while having been in ON is satisfactory. To reinstate power, turn OFF headlamp switch also key off, manually unlock doors, open hood, close all doors, NOW connect battery quickly/deliberately & tighten.

Now observe EVERYTHING as you open door, and go to 'foot on pedal + start ignition'. Observe chimes, instrument cluster - your gonna VIEW ALL LAMPS your in LAMP TEST before hitting the starter, and hopefully ALL looks normal and then you observe a GOOD START

Are you suggesting that I drain all the power from the battery. So that the car has no power whatsoever?

then charge it back up?

No , your not draining the battery , I think you've just used your wrong words - no problem. You goal is to remove ALL RESIDUAL ENERGY IN THE WHOLE CARS ELECTRICAL SYSTEM , ECM , PCM, BCM , TIME-Contol etc. etc. whatever has "Juice" ., hoping that your problem was volatile "stuff" that was stored electrically in ANY of those computer modules , for that matter anywhere in "volatile form" in the entire car ; BY SIMPLY DISCONNECTING BATTERY w/ a procedural order , more primitively speaking your doing an EXCORCISM oh,oh,ahh,a hh ,ahhh of the car .
Seriously , that's the hail Mary that we've now come to this. Does'nt COST anything , right ?

p.s. For safety's sake , re-read what I said earlier - or get an electrician to interpret for you , all respect now, I don't believe anything there misconstrues draining / shorting-out the battery - would be probable catastrophic / fire hazard. Please if you feel you may , point out where my words sound like they say that . I would definitely apologize and feel extremely bad for you or anyone else to destroy your car under any mis- interpretation of my tips and suggestions .

Disconnect your battery for overnight then reconnect in the morning and see what happens. Short and simple.

Then go to eBay or amazon and spend some money on a middle of the road obd code reader that people seem to like. Plan on spending $75-200. That is a cheap code reader but not so cheap that it does you no good. Don’t buy a $15-50 reader they’re pretty much worthless. Then next time you won’t have to do this car code dance that plays havoc with the electronics.

I have one like this that will read airbag codes, abs codes, transmission codes in addition to engine codes. If I have an abs code and it says wheel speed sensor it will tell me which wheel is the problem.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/LAUNCH-CRP129- ... Sw5ZRdEZUn

Rogue's giving you a good recommendation on the scanner ,like I bought an INNOVA , claims ABS etc. but "not available " it says on my car . He 's used that ebay one and looks like it resets things like oil , DOES abs stuff and IS useful. I didn't spend enough , $ 100 only on mine , like he's saying you get what you pay for - that "LAUNCH" unit he shows looks like it's priced just right .

I think sometimes those scanners work fine on one brand of car reading all or nearly all the systems, but come up short and only do a couple of the systems on another brand. Whatever you buy do your research and keep in mind what car(s) you’ll be using it on.

I have a couple of different scanners. Nothing super expensive like a Snapon or Mac, however I do have access to a Mac scanner if I need it through a friend. His company paid about $5000 plus a monthly subscription, not sure what the figure is probably a couple of hundred per month.

Your phrase "all the systems " , absolutely , often DON"T work on all of the cars , all of the times . I have another Actron ( older-scan only) and I actually had to get the Brother labelmaker between it and the Innova & note what the hell they do and don't on ea. of my four vehicles

I totally hear what you guys are saying. I used a cheapie ODB2 from the local garage, the main issue of why I'm having this problems is I work out of town, actually a few provinces form my home, so I don't have acesss to my own reader or tools. I have a Innova 3100. I had my family ship it to me it should be here tmo or the day after. I'll run it and see if it makes any difference.

My Innova always worked well on my Rogue whenever I had an issue it was usually bang on. It showed Abs on my fine. Couldn't reset abs after I had an airbag deploy and then replaced but it def detected the issue.

INNOVA has a pretty decent scanner I’ve heard, of course I’ve seen different price points from super cheap to professional grade.

In your case it might be worth carrying one with you.

I drove to Florida a couple of years ago with my personal vehicle, the Rogue. I made a looooong list of tools to take with me stashing them in the nooks and crannies of the vehicle, of course I took a scanner along. I just believe in being prepared, I’d hate to spend hours along the freeway waiting for a tow for lack of a wrench or screwdriver.

UPDATE:

I disconnected the battery for 24 hours and reconnected it. I had to get a booster charge pack to boost the battery cause it didn't have enough power to crank. Still won't turn over. It's literally on the verge of turning over but it just doesn't start. I mean it's like right there.

I put my innova 3100 ODB2 scanner on it and no DTC or FF codes came up. However when I scanned for Nissan specific codes I got P0826 Manual mode switch, and P1701 Power Supply Circuit come up.

Would these codes affect the start up? I read up that these can be a symptom of a low charge or dead battery which can be explained because the battery does not have a lot of charge.

I've also read that these could be from faulty wiring. I did spill a bunch of coolant from the overflow that got all over the engine. but are these codes indicative of a vehicle not starting?

Anything that I should be checking out with these codes?

When you get this enigma with your car fixed , I'd get the city to install a crosswalk light for Coyotes there , or you'll be at it again , a sign "watch for animals" ," blind coyotes in road" or just watching far and wide when driving thru their territory.

Disconnect the battery again and fully charge your battery. If I have a low battery I’ll put it on a 2amp charger overnight. Don’t charge your battery while it is still connected to the car. Then reconnect and try again.

I think both Mac and I assumed you would use a fully charged battery when you reconnected it.

Funny story. About 9 years ago the state built a new section of road in our area which will eventually become part of the interstate highway system. It is about a 4 mile section of roadway what went through a mostly wooded hillside area. They had the foresight to install an animal underpass, however apparently they forgot to make the announcement in the appropriate language or post signs in the correct dialect. (sarcasm)

During the first month after opening, that 4 mile section of highway saw over 80 deer and a dozen or so bear hit and killed. Numerous smaller animals. So much for wasting taxpayer dollars with pointy head thinking.

The battery needs charging back to full and a loadtest to make sure it is still good.

The 1701 code may be simply because the TCM lost power because battery was disconnected. Once it begins relearn that code may go away.

The 826 code may be the shift external linkage likely at front of trans where the shifter cable goes to, the animal may have broken something up in there. Most trans have the manual shift electrics right at the entry of the cable to the trans main linkage there. Broken just so the car would not start thinking it is in gear.

Car was mentioned as being at 200K miles, that old one simply could have fouled spark plugs wet to not start in all the messing around, yank plugs checking for wet. If so it will not start but try. Also, on a car that old there is nothing unusual about something else breaking out of the blue simply because it is so old.