after marked rod and pistons help

Discuss topics related to the CA18DE and CA18DET series engines.
d.p.n.s
Posts: 32
Joined: Tue Feb 02, 2010 8:48 pm
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hi all
i will be starting to buy parts for my rebuild in the next few months once ive finished mocking everything up
in the engine bay.

ill be looking for 400+at the wheels this time around and was thinking
of going for spool rods and cp pistons.

has anyone run into any problems with these?
or has anyone else had some relay good results with other rods and pistons?

plaese anyones info on any rod and pistons will be awesome as i will probly have to
buy out of n.z anyway so shipping isnt going to be a problem.

just want to try and find a realy good combo.

thanks for you time and help
dan


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float_6969
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I wouldn't worry about the rods. Maybe put some ARP rod bolts in them and have them shot peened. We've had members take the stock rods to 500whp w/o any issues. I'm on stock rods and will be making around 400whp and have no concerns about my rods.

As for the pistons, I'm personally a fan of CP pistons. Mine have been great to myself and many others.

d.p.n.s
Posts: 32
Joined: Tue Feb 02, 2010 8:48 pm
Car: mk1 escort van

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i had shot peened rods in the last build with arp bolts and standard (but new) pistons and got 323hp out of them but have been told that to have 400+ i would definitely need stronger rods.
but that was from an engine builder that was thinking i was going to pay him to build it when all i wanted to do was pick his brain.

so if it was you mate you would be happy to run them and are happy runing them in yours?

as for pistons ive had wiseco pistonsin 2 turbo bikes befor with out any issues and they do do a kit for
the ca18 but i have heared realy good things about cp pistons.

thanks mate
dan

Tkca18det
Posts: 57
Joined: Thu Sep 10, 2009 10:11 am
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I did some research a while back before rebuilding my CA, I used Supertech Pistons because their price was really low like 400 the set and good for 42 psi, as far as Wiseco Ive read about mismatching parts and blown pistons a lot so I wouldnt go there.

CP is one of the best options out there, supertech is used a lot in Australia and no bad reviews so far.

PV

d.p.n.s
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thanks mate

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s13drifter88
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I have supertech pistons in mine with Pauter rods. really pricey but if youre going to buy rods buy good ones. ive heard of spool but idk anyone with them, havnt seen any builds with them and havnt heard any reviews so idk what to tell you. i know the pauters are good to stupid numbers so for my build i figured thats what id use... esp with the nitrous and a 2871 .86

NUTCSE
Posts: 32
Joined: Fri May 07, 2010 12:20 am
Car: 1987 Nissan Exa
CA18 build with a T61 = 300fwkw
Location: Sydney, Australia

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Id stick with CP pistons. The wiseco's never had the notch in the bottom of them to clear the oil squirters, apparently they sorted out this issue.

As for rods, for the sake of $500 id be getting the spool rods or there are the K1 rods for $370. By the time you race prep the stock rods and get ARP bolts they will cost almost as much as the spool rods and still wont be able to handle the same power and revs.

I dont know how long a 400whp let alone 500whp motor will last with stock rods bouncing on the rev limiter. I had a friend who bent a stock rod with only 300whp. I like to be safe than sorry.


Heres a 307kw CA18 using Spool Rods
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=px2-qZ_W ... re=related


3rd Gear Garage Burnout :biggrin:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qw0NSpbaxiE

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D_Stirls
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Location: Adelaide,South Australia

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As NUTCSE said for the cost of SPOOL rods you can't go wrong.

The factory rods will take a hammering but they are less resistant to any form of Knock or pre-ignition at that power. So if something goes wrong then you will up for the cost of a new build, rather than adjust your tune and away you go.

I've put SPOOL rods and CP pistons in my current build. I looked at the supertech pistons but couldn't find enough information at the time and for the price that i got the CP it's was worth the few extra dollars at the time to be sure. I ended up getting CP's and Cometic HG in a package for $700 posted and the Supertechs alone were $550 posted.
Last edited by D_Stirls on Wed Dec 15, 2010 5:22 am, edited 1 time in total.

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float_6969
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D_Stirls wrote:The factory rods will take a hammering but they are less resistant to any form of Knock or pre-ignition at that power. So if something goes wrong then you will up for the cost of a new build, rather than adjust your tune and away you go.
I can agree with this to some extent. If you're not confident in your tuning, or your tuners ability, then yes, I would say aftermarket rods are good insurance. But I'll also say, that if you're tuning is done correctly, there should be any detonation or pre-ignition. So I guess I feel like the money that is spent on aftermarket rods could be spent on a good tuner instead and still not spend what you will on something like Pauter rods.

I'm running stock rods w/ARP rod bolts. Not even shot peened. And not to sound like a douche, but I'm the one tuning it, and I know that detonation or pre-ignition is NOT a problem with my setup, or tune. I'm also running E85. But I can also tell you that before I ran E85, I had LOTS of detonation in the #3 cylinder. (I'm assuming it runs leaner than the others?) It was bad enough I had to have the head re-surfaced because it looked like someone took and ice-pick to the quench pads on the head. The pistons looked fine (THANK YOU CP PISTONS!). And even with that kind of detonation, my stock rods were still fine. Now that was done at about 18psi on an S15 T28. Maybe if the HP had been higher when it happened, I would have had damage to the stock rod. But for me, until I see one bend under pure HP, and not poor tuning, I'll stick with the stock rods.

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s13drifter88
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Location: Huntsville, AL

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For a mild 300-350hp I wouldnt even worry about buying a set of rods. If youre planning on hitting 400ish numbers id definitely invest in a good set of rods. Stock may take it but for how long idk and the cost of good rods is certainly cheaper then buying another long block, if u were to happen to spit one that is. even if u dont spit it tho a crankshaft is pretty expensive. under 350hp, stock's fine. over 350hp, invest in a good set for reliability. thats my 2 cents tho

boost_boy
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If for some ungodly reason your engine spins a bearing @ high rpm, then there goes those expensive rods. I'm not saying that this is always the case, but I've seen it happened too many times. I'd rather find the limits of the stock rods, especially if you're just looking to hang around the 400whp area as the stock rods are up to the task. I've built multiple CAs and have yet to discover an issue with the stock rods, to include my own cars impregnated with the CA18s. And BTW, back in 1999-2000, I've grenaded some engines via detonation and though the pistons got splattered, the rods laughed at the pistons, said to the pistons "see ya" and said to me "you need more pistons fool" :yesnod. So really man, it's your call. You asked for different opinions and this is what we have to offer here. Good luck on your choice, but remember, expensive parts are only a band-aid for less than optimal tuning.

d.p.n.s
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Joined: Tue Feb 02, 2010 8:48 pm
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thanks guys
some realy good info there and kind of leading me down the path i was going to go.

im all for finding the limets of things
so i think ill stick with the shot peend rods and run it around and find out
how far i can push them and while im doing that ill start to buld another
block with forged rod.

thanks again
dan

Dan1200sss
Posts: 44
Joined: Sun Aug 22, 2010 6:34 pm

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Hey mate, dan with the ca 510 here, my engine builder really rated the cp piston and spool rod combo. You should just spend the extra few hundred on the spools rather than messing around preping the stock ones. The 764hp ca18det yatala headworx has in that yellow Datto 1200 has cp pistons , spool rods and acl race bearings so
They're obviously a fairly decent rod ;)


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