After 9 years...

[nickd0tc0m]

Finally getting my car back on the road with a freshly built motor and a new clutch. However, it just occurred to me that I've never broken in a new motor and clutch at the same time. Anyone have any experience in this? I ask because the break-in procedure for the two are quite contradictory.

[boost_boy]

Just remember that the engine like being loaded. Drive it hard without constantly redlining the thing and when slowing engine brake or downshift to slow the car down. No synthetic oil and no prolonged idling (not good for the rings). Make sure you change the oil after your first beat-down session.

[nickd0tc0m]

I understand all that, and that's where the problem is. Manufacturer recommends that I take it easy on the clutch and don't shift above 3k rpm for about 300 miles. It's an ACT pressure plate with a LUK street disc

[boost_boy]

You can follow the manufacturers suggestion, but those clutches weren't designed with new engines in mind nor do they mention breaking-in their clutches with brand new engines, so you're going to have to assume that they designed these clutches with the thoughts of engines that are already broken-in and used. Just go drive the thing as the clutch is not going to prematurely wear and void your warranty. Your engine is waaaay more important, so break it in properly and that clutch is going to have to get in where it fit in and hold on for the beat-down.

[TheMAN]

the clutch only cares about engage/disagagements at high rpm... as long as you don't shift at high rpms and just coast back down to low rpms before shifting, you are fine
I did this when I put in my exedy clutch in my mazda... I redlined it, but just slowed back down before shifting at 3000rpm... works perfectly right now

the recommendation is exactly what it means... shift at low rpm... there's nothing stated you can't redline your engine, just don't shift at redline!