Aem standalone break-in map advice?

[nickbequick]

I'm about to turn over my freshly built sr20 for the first time in my s13 coupe and I'm hesitating to turn the key because my aem's map is for a standard everyday tune running at 7 lbs. I don't who did the tune or what the technical side of the map is because I know absolutely nothing about maps and tuning. Basically I'm asking those of you who are experienced in this field to enlighten me with some much needed advice; should I start the motor with the current map, which will cause absolutely no harm nor damage to the motor? Or should I get my aem programmed with a break-in map? If this is an obviouse choice, well sorry to waste your time by reading this long a** post, I just can't trust myself to make these sorts of decisions. If you do guide me in the right direction, well, thank you very much.
-Nick

[compactfean]

Not a stupid question at all. As long as you have a base map that can cruz and idle decent than go ahead and start it, check oil pressure, check all sensors etc and if all vitals are within spec than you should new fine to take it to a tuner and have him tune you decent break setting (boost afr, timing etc). I wouldn't boost it until someone that knows what they are doing can monitor what's important to give you the thumbs up.

[nickbequick]

Thanks man that helps a lot. When you say "wouldn't boost it" you mean not run a turbo at all while the motor is getting broken in or just not to crank up the psi?

[compactfean]

Yeah just don't crank up the psi. When turning up the boost you want to make sure you have 0 knock, low egts, and good afrs. best way to keep boost down is to keep foot out of it but when breaking in the motor you want some boost, you also want some heavy decel when driving too. That way rings seat properly. As far as the assembly lube and initial beak in I've always ran the engine for 15-20 min at 2k than drain it and replace filter.

[OutToWinPAHC]

AEMs instructions are clear that the map file is only for the basics, sync timing, set TPS, fire it, warm up, dial in FPR, bleed coolant, check for leaks and put it on a trailer. The maps are not meant for driving on at all.

[nickbequick]

This is my first build/tuner so I'm about to ask y'all some serious rookie questions if y'all want too save me the multiple hours searching. What are egts, afrs, TPS, and lastly FPR?
Preciate the tips compactfean, I put my life into this car and motor so I will do anything any everything to keep her healthy. I do have instructions from power division for the initial break in that explain similar steps to those you said so I'll make sure to follow them carefully.
Needing to put it on a trailer due to it running an the AEM OutToWinPAHC, is something I was not aware of. Like I said I put my life into this car and to drive once, twice, or three times a week would just not statify me in a way. I will take it into consideration and follow up with some more research on AEM steet driven maps though, possibly in the future. I want to make use of the cup holder I installed. Hahaha

[OutToWinPAHC]

FPR is fuel pressure regulator, TPS is throttle position sensor, AFR is air fuel ratio, EGT is exhaust gas temp. Now the tune that AEM supplies is a very basic TPS based tune only for the sole reason of getting the car to a tuner, before you do that you need to make sure the coolant is bled, no leaks, and it is mechanical sound before any tuner will want to roll it on the dyno. Step one is follow the instructions and upgrade / change and wire any new sensors. I'd suggest taking off your MAF and selling it and get a MAP sensor. GM 3 bar is great, you will also need to install an IAT (intake air temp sensor) GM open element is the same one AEM relabels and sells. You can get both from DIYautotune.com. Once your sure everything is good, pull the spark plugs, groung plug one out, turn off the fuel (can do this is the AEM software by turning injectors off), go to the wizards under tools and go to sync timing wizard. Lock the timing a 10BTDC have a friend crank it, and adjust the CAS until what you see with a timing light is what the AEM is locked in at. Then go to the TPS wizard and use this to set the throttle position range. Once these are done, turn the fuel back on, check all the sensor readings in AEM and try to start the car.

If you look in the install manual on page 2 it will say
TUNING NOTES AND WARNING:
While the supplied startup calibration may be a good starting point and can save considerable time and money, it will not replace the need to tune the EMS for your specific application. AEM startup calibrations are not intended to be driven aggressively before
tuning. We strongly recommend that every EMS be tuned by someone who is already familiar with the AEM software and has successfully tuned vehicles using an AEM EMS.
Most people make mistakes as part of the learning process; be warned that using your vehicle as a learning platform can damage your engine, your vehicle, and your EMS.

[nickbequick]

I am blown away by what you just decribed. I had no idea what i was up againts with this AEM. I cant explain how much you have helped me and my s13. Seriously, thank you very much. There is allready no MAF, im running a filter directly on the turbo housing with a fitting on the filter connected to the T on the valve cover and a catch can in between. How crucial is the IAT? Therse also one thing im not sure on and a little confused, it might not matter though. The AEM is not brand new. The previous owner had it tuned by someone so im assuming its not programed with AEM's factory startup map. Does that change anything of what you just described?
Im also hoping you might be able to answer another question i was uncertain on. As far as the CAS goes, when you take the plastic cover off therse the disc that has a good amount of little holes all the way around. i ran across a thread on some forum that i belive said that when running a standalone, a newer disc is needed that has an exteme amount of holes. Can you tell me if thats true/needed/mandatory? If yes can you point me to a site where they sell it? Thanks again for the much needed help, to both of you.

[OutToWinPAHC]

Aem requires the iat sensor, and you should use the aem trigger wheel, it reads better than the oem. i may have a spare, i have an rb so i should have the sr wheel. if was tuned for stock you should be able to use that tune after you select your sensors from the list, you still need to sync the timing and do the tps wizard. But you should still get it tuned.

You may also need to upgrade the firmware, you can get the lastest software and install manual from aems website

[nickbequick]

How much for the trigger wheel shipped to 30005?

[OutToWinPAHC]

I didn't look for it, but if I have it free. I'll check tomorrow.

[nickbequick]

Awesome man. Preciate that.

[OutToWinPAHC]

its not in the box sorry, http://www.amazon.com/Optical-Trigger-N ... B005V3FZXS

[nickbequick]

.

[nickbequick]

I need one more answer from you guys just for insurance, and to settle my nerves.
I without any doubt CAN startup my freshly built sr with the street tune my AEM has right now, i dont need to program it with a specific break in map correct? Im looking for the best thing to do, not just something that will work if that makes sense.

[kingtal0n]

Under normal circumstances you want to drive the car and put it under load during a proper break-in for most engines. That usually means it needs to be tuned before you actually start it. The correct way to do the break-in procedure would have been to get the engine tuned before it was rebuilt, then rebuild the motor and drive it on the finished tune from the old engine.

everyone has their own idea of how an engine should be broken in. It also depends on how the engine was built, what tolerances are set and what sort of finish is on the cylinder wall and what the material of the piston ring is. Generally, however, you need to put the engine under some load to get the piston rings to press up against the cylinder walls and establish a proper wear pattern. Simply idling it around and cruising will not do the job.

[nickbequick]

Thanks for the extra advice man, that will lead me to getting her running properly.

I think I'm going to start her up with AEMs break in map.