Advice On Cleaning Dirty Rusty Block!

Post by **sil80drifter** » Tue Dec 10, 2002 2:24 pm

Ok guys, I have an SOHC engine block from a 1990 240SX. Now it's stripped down to the actual block, there is nothing more on it. The crank is still inside (can't get the damn thing out), and so are 3 pistons. The block is rusty from both drivers and passengers side, and inside it's all black, as are the tops of the pistons (carbon buildup I assume, for the pistons) I have brushed off most of the rust that was flaky, and now am looking for something to make that block shine again. It still has a lot of rust that I can't wire bursh off of it, because it's stuck to the block, and I went at it with a drill with a wire brush attachement, and that didn't do much. Does any one know how to refurbish such a durty/rusty block? I want it to be in a good condition for repainting/recoating, so that the paint/clear coat sticks. Are there any cleaning kits, like drill/dremel bits for removing rust, or anything like that? I also put Naval Jelly on a brushed (but still rusty) part fo the block, adn it didn't seem to do much (I left it on there for 10 minutes and then overnight). Please help me make this bastard clean!

sil80

p.s.: Does any one know what "engine boiling" is? Or how much it costs? It sounds like it could help me clean the inside of the block.

Post by **Scott McLellan** » Tue Dec 10, 2002 2:24 pm

I have two sources here in front of me that have degreasing and cleaning services. The first has; boil blocks/includes removing all plugs-$50, boil head-$10, boil intake- $20, and glass beading that costs by time. The second source has oven and shot clean block-$40. Another good idea is to get the block magnafluxed to check for cracks listed at $25. The first source is Tuned Port Induction Speicialties-www.tpis.com (sorry it's for camaros and vettes but price should be similar) and the second source is Midwest Motorsports-www.midwestmotorsportsinc.com. Also check out http://www.sa-motorsports.com for their block deburring kit and http://www.eastwoodcompany.com for a whole bunch of abrasives that would work great for removing rust and stuff to prepare it for paint. I believe boiling the block is when they submerge the block/or whatever in a tank of really strong chemicals and cleans the block really well. Ask first about aluminum parts because the chemicals could mess it up (cylinder head, intake). I haven't tried this stuff though maybe somebody else has. Hope this helps, though.

Post by **sil80drifter** » Tue Dec 10, 2002 2:24 pm

thank you...so much.but where exactly on those first two links can I find what engine cleaning services they provide? I've looked all over

sil80

Website · Post by **JNM240** » Tue Dec 10, 2002 2:24 pm

Your local machine shop should be able to do all of those things too. My block is in Picayune, MS (a stones throw from nowhere) and hes doing all that, cleaning it up and boring/honing it. Hes also cleaning up my cylinder head, changing the valve stem seals, measured everything in order to get some custom pistons from JE, changed the freeze plugs on the block, and will be assembling the lower end (just pistons, rods, and crank). He will be boring and honing each cylinder to the piston for the most exacting tolerances as well. All for $370.

Why cant you get the crank off? Once you remove the main bearing journal and the rear main seal and plate, you unbolt the connecting rod bolts and gently tap the piston out from the bottom. I used the wooden handle of a hammer and tapped gently so it came out the top of the block.

Post by **sil80drifter** » Tue Dec 10, 2002 2:24 pm

JNM240, could you please give me the company/guys name who's doing all that for you? I am not too far from Massachussetts, so I could even drop by the block at that place. Or is MS not Masachussetts? Anyway, I could ship it too...

I can get the pistons out, I removed rear seal, but the oil pump drive gear is stuck on good, and I guess I'll need a puller to remove it, I have a whole thread dedicated to that...Did you pull your whole engine apart when you gave it to that shop, or did you just send the whole thing to them?

sil80

Website · Post by **JNM240** » Tue Dec 10, 2002 2:24 pm

Sorry, MS = Mississippi. Theres a shop here in Slidell, Louisiana, but ive heard bad things about them. They do the same kind of work. Look in your yellow pages for machine shop and give a few some calls and see what kind of work they do. Shipping from Massachussetts to Mississippi is going to cost probably half of what the actual machining will be.

Yes, i pulled my whole engine apart and brought it all in peices to the machine shop. I gave him the block, complete head (cam, gear, rockers), rods (with pistons attached, he had to press them off), crank, and main journal. Ive gotten the pistons back, but we are both waiting (impatiently) on the new pistons. Once we get them, he can bore and hone it and i can get it all back together.

Im totally assuming that youve already taken the front cover off? If so, that should have nothing to do with your pistons. However, make sure the distributor is taken out, it should be easier to remove the oil pump drive gear.

Post by **sil80drifter** » Tue Dec 10, 2002 2:24 pm

I have just the bare block sitting there, the only thign that is still on there is the crankshaft. The oil pump drive gear is stuck on like a bulldog to ones leg. I'll get it off though...

sil80

Post by **Scott McLellan** » Tue Dec 10, 2002 2:24 pm

You can chip off some of the carbon buildup with a wooden chisel and hammer yourself.

Post by **Scott McLellan** » Tue Dec 10, 2002 2:24 pm

You can chip off some of the carbon buildup with a wooden chisel and hammer yourself.

Post by **Scott McLellan** » Tue Dec 10, 2002 2:24 pm

oooops sorry for saying that twice:)

Advice On Cleaning Dirty Rusty Block!

Advice On Cleaning Dirty Rusty Block!

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