Adusting Bearings...

[yngw13]

Long story short I went for a safety inspection and even after fixing it //replacing the inner race and bearing + outer bearing (not the race) /// i still end up having minimal play (so slight! 3/8 inch )and wont pass me for safety...now...

Do I just tighten the threaded lock nut TIGHT? I have new parts in there...????how tight????
trying to get zero movement...

[CanuckQx4]

Your supposed to tighten to lock nut to 70ft/lbs then back it off 1/2 a revolution

[yngw13]

argh...looks like I have to shell out for the tool in Napa

[CanuckQx4]

I bought mine off summit for cheap, like $15. But a center punch in either of the 2 holes, hammered quite tight, and then a 1/4 turn loosened will probably get you by.

[yngw13]

$15 at Napa....I'll go get it tomorrow....not bad I guess just burning time on a Sunday puts me in a bad mood....Thanks much appreciated:-)

[00pathyse]

Don't feel bad I must have adjusted mine 5 times before I got them to stay tight. I adjusted hem as per fsm but found I was always loosening them too much at the end. Remember to spin the rotor back and forth at least 5 times with torquedto 70ft/lbs before backing off the torque. Error on the side of tighter than looser when you're finishing the job.

[00pathyse]

How was it getting the race installed? I will have to do that when I get new rotors. Was it difficult?

[yngw13]

Hey thanks pathyse for the tips!
It wasn't so bad taking the race out...just need to do deliberate blows with a heavy 2.5lbs hammer...
I used long drive punches from harbor freight

To assist me...taking turns on each side...used grease and the old race to bang the new one in...
Also make sure you have boards to use to elevate the hub while you are banging them out...

[cr4west]

I used a 1" digital indicator gauge (93295) with the magnetic base accessory (5645) from HF for around $40 altogether. This way I was able to easily check and double check the bearing run out to be zero AFTER torqueing the bearing lock nut and rotating the disk back and forth several times. The magnet base attaches nicely to the side of the strut base. Three years and 25k miles later I got the most evenly worn brake pads ever. Never did find an affordable/suitable tool to tighten the nissan bearing lock nut although the ford version of the special tool is very close in diameter (50mm) only it features square pins instead of round pins. Ended up using a pair of sacrificial needle nose pliers jammed into the bearing locknut lock nut round holes with a large screwdriver through the open jaws to twist it tight. (cringe...tool abuse)