well here I am!downloading the service manual.got a new oil pump already installed, doing the water pump now.this car only had 50,000km on it not sure why i'm doing all this but better safe than sorry, got a new timing belt and tensioners too.
had to hold off on the greddy intake till next month, needed a drive shaft and clutch this month. more pix to come
Adrian's project woot woot
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Darius
- Posts: 4820
- Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
- Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
- Location: Chicagoland
Re: Adrian's project woot woot (Adrian gt)
Nice shop!
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l0nestar
- Posts: 2251
- Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 5:24 am
- Car: 1993 Nissan 250SX
2004 Toyota Altezza
1963 Chevy Impala SS - Contact:
Re: Adrian's project woot woot (Adrian gt)
Nice! which oil / water pump? which timing belt?
PS nice shop x2!
PS nice shop x2!
Re: Adrian's project woot woot (l0nestar)
OEM, OEM, OEM. i would have done a N1 il pump but I got scared off from doing it due to the crank to pump stripping problem.N1 water pump does not flow well at city speeds and even worse at idletiming belt.. well i've never broken a stocker.l0nestar wrote:Nice! which oil / water pump? which timing belt?
PS nice shop x2!
the shop's G dimension in case any of you were wondering
oh and here's a pic of my flywheel
and a random shot from the pull
Ordering a drive shaft tomorrow. a guy at work has the same motor mounts i'm using with the same motor and it's a s13 like mine too so we measured his car, on a side note our motors sit 1/4 farther back then the rb26 car with mckinny mounts
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l0nestar
- Posts: 2251
- Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 5:24 am
- Car: 1993 Nissan 250SX
2004 Toyota Altezza
1963 Chevy Impala SS - Contact:
Re: Adrian's project woot woot (Adrian gt)
The problem with the oil pump is the snout on the crank. I had a collar machined and installed, so I'm not worried at all. I wanted the higher pressure / volume of the N1 oil pump because I'm going to be running an external oil cooler.Adrian gt wrote:OEM, OEM, OEM. i would have done a N1 il pump but I got scared off from doing it due to the crank to pump stripping problem.N1 water pump does not flow well at city speeds and even worse at idletiming belt.. well i've never broken a stocker. oh and here's a pic of my flywheel
You are correct about the flow characteristics of the N1 water pump, it is not designed to flow well at lower RPM.
As for timing belt, I just wanted to be a baller And I could not find OEM belts when I was purchasing everything.
PS, your shot looks very nice!
Re: Adrian's project woot woot (l0nestar)
The N1 pump just has a higher rated spring.Higher pressure ≠ higher volumeN1 has higher pressure but not higher volume. The Nismo pump does have higher pressure and volume.l0nestar wrote:
I wanted the higher pressure / volume of the N1 oil pump because I'm going to be running an external oil cooler.
You are correct about the flow characteristics of the N1 water pump, it is not designed to flow well at lower RPM.
Re: Adrian's project woot woot (Adrian gt)
popped the hood today. looks like a ka was lurking in my car.need to clean that mess out.
Re: (Carl H)
no because if you take that much metal off you need to balance it, which i had done at the machine shop.i still trust it more that a aluminum one.Carl H wrote:did you toss the stock flywheel on a brake lathe or something?be careful doing that...
oh ka is out btw.the ka threw a rod so my steering rack is extra lubed =(
Re: Adrian's project woot woot (eh?)
Stop perpetuating this myth. The N1 pump has larger hardened oil pump gears. It not only flows more, but it also puts out more pressure than the stock pump.eh? wrote:
The N1 pump just has a higher rated spring.Higher pressure ≠ higher volumeN1 has higher pressure but not higher volume. The Nismo pump does have higher pressure and volume.
http://forums.racebread.com/in...13390
Re: Adrian's project woot woot (garage-c)
engine out!
though i realized today my car has no brakes, the master was off so i thought it was jsut that, then i realized there are no calipers on it at all.
at least a stripped 240 with no mootor is so light you can throw it around like a red headed step child
though i realized today my car has no brakes, the master was off so i thought it was jsut that, then i realized there are no calipers on it at all.
at least a stripped 240 with no mootor is so light you can throw it around like a red headed step child
Re: (DriftX)
I've used up about $10 in brake and carb clean on that engine bay.still got to scrap up the grime on the cross member.DriftX wrote:clean car, dirty *** engine bay
I wish i had time to really clean up the car and get it painted but i need to get it done so i have something to drive. maybe this weekend
Re: (Carl H)
walmart had non so i got engine degrease and some over cleaner, plus a hoseCarl H wrote:2 words dude, castrol superclean.
Re: Adrian's project woot woot (Adrian gt)
remind me never to buy a shell again!i think i spent 3 hours cleaning, i started with a square f metal to scrap the 1/2 thick mess off my cross member
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SR20DETGUY08
- Posts: 100
- Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 7:08 pm
- Car: S14 Kouki
hehe...two words..POWER WASHER.... lol I did that on my S14 when I took the KA out...10 minutes with that and presoaked it with some simple green...looked perfect! Well except for the fact that Im in Ohio so the damn thing had all kinds of rust holes trying to form...but thats why I just stitch welded the entire engine bay! lol
Re: (SR20DETGUY08)
I was working with what i got at the shop. i used a few cans of degrease but the simple green stuff worked the best, it melting it like butter but when it came to sway bars and the like i kept filling my brush up with grease because there was just so much.SR20DETGUY08 wrote:hehe...two words..POWER WASHER.... lol I did that on my S14 when I took the KA out...10 minutes with that and presoaked it with some simple green...looked perfect! Well except for the fact that Im in Ohio so the damn thing had all kinds of rust holes trying to form...but thats why I just stitch welded the entire engine bay! lol
as for rust my car seems to not have any. other than under the brake booster because the master cylinder was taken out and it looks like they just let the brake fluid drip down. I'm going to get some anti rust paint i got for my old 240Z and touch it up down there
white's hard to keep clean but it makes it easy to find leaks
Re: Adrian's project woot woot (garage-c)
Sorry to side track your thread AdrianBut
Please find something better than a link to a link to a link on skylines downunder. Considering people are breaking N1 oil pump gears it would be a good guess that person actually had a Nismo pump NOT an N1 pump. Even the most knowledgable skyline mind in the US says just higher pressure.garage-c wrote:
Stop perpetuating this myth. The N1 pump has larger hardened oil pump gears. It not only flows more, but it also puts out more pressure than the stock pump.
http://forums.racebread.com/in...13390
Re: Adrian's project woot woot (Adrian gt)
wash and installed my brake calipers (all stock) though i was in a rush and have no e brake for the moment.
Re: (Adrian gt)
someone said i'd have to remove my heat shield for my steering rack to clear, i thought to myself, self don't you want a heat shield? so i cut the part that woud hit and left the rest!also this pic shows how clean my motor is, the old water pump is still cheery. and lastly here are my G dimension motor mounts!
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ST240
- Posts: 575
- Joined: Sun Aug 04, 2002 11:45 am
- Car: RB30DET Nissan S13
'01 Nissan Pathfinder - Location: Edmonton, Canada
Re: (Adrian gt)
Cool build man! Lookin forward to seeing it progress. Whered you get the oem parts? Also let me know how your clearance issues go (esp with the steering shaft) with those mounts.
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BoostFab
- Posts: 3529
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- Car: S13cp, S13fb, S14z
- Location: Nismo Land
- Contact:
Re: (Adrian gt)
wtf... i made my mount with that type of connection style. how did that leaked out?!?Adrian gt wrote: and lastly here are my G dimension motor mounts!
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Darius
- Posts: 4820
- Joined: Sun Mar 02, 2003 9:48 am
- Car: RB25DET S14 - 665 WHP (SOLD)
- Location: Chicagoland
Re: (BoostsFed)
Spy photographers. They're everywhere.
Re: (BoostsFed)
how did it leak out? you copied meBoostsFed wrote: wtf... i made my mount with that type of connection style. how did that leaked out?!?
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BoostFab
- Posts: 3529
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- Contact:
Re: (Adrian gt)
i was joking, not getting your feeling hurt.Adrian gt wrote:how did it leak out? you copied me
one of the version of my prototype mount uses that type of urethane mounts, but the brackets are entirely different. i made them 1-1/2 years ago, no i didnt' copy.
Re: (BoostsFed)
haha it's all good.BoostsFed wrote: i was joking, not getting your feeling hurt.
one of the version of my prototype mount uses that type of urethane mounts, but the brackets are entirely different. i made them 1-1/2 years ago, no i didnt' copy.
i got the motor back together, the fire wall banged in and i should be dropping the motor and trans in today.
as for wiring. well i took out AC and AUTO transmission wires from the wiring harness but i have not spliced in any of the 3 body connectors into my harness yet.
Re: (ST240)
local dealer has a lot of parts. also get stuff through work.as for the downpipe, here it isST240 wrote:Cool build man! Lookin forward to seeing it progress. Whered you get the oem parts? Also let me know how your clearance issues go (esp with the steering shaft) with those mounts.