The long wait for affordable tension rods is over
Anyway so as you'll all notice these are 88+ style, the kind that normally you get 2 rather large poly bushings after burning or cutting out the original mangled rubber one. For those brackets these are a direct fit.
However if you happen to have the early/zenki style brackets, you have the pancake bushings, some giant washers, and a bracket with a plate in the middle. This kit can be made to work on these brackets, by modifying the brackets and drilling the control arm holes to 12mm (or say 1/2") from the original 10.5mm.
So, I don't know which method can be considered easier, removing the entire center plate, or modifying it, but for this conversion I decided to see what the minimum needed to be removed would look like.
As you can see, the center cups come off once the spotwelds are drilled, and are pried off by screwdriver or chisel. Then the fun part, using a hacksaw, dremel or other cutting device, enlarge the hole for the rodend tip to float unobstructed.
* I should note here that the hole can be even larger, or made into a deep channel, and the rodend eye with the throughbolt can be installed on the far side of the plate... the tension rods should be long enough in adjustment.
Once you're sure the rodend is not going to hit anything, you mock it up with the spacers, figure out where the hole centers are on the sides, perhaps using a pilot hole which you slowly enlarge with a stepped bit. The foldover edges might prove problematic for the bolt head and nut, so just keep in mind there's both inside and outside clearance to contend with.
If you did everything right, there should be absolutely no performance difference which bracket you started with, except that the tension rods might be too long at minimum adjustment. If this is the case, it is easily fixed by lopping off 1/2" or so of thread from the tension rod heads before assembly.