Additional key fob help needed, FSM instructions on EL-161 did not work.

[Lady Q]

It was really disappointing. I tried the instructions in the FSM to no avail and I'm sad my key fob doesn't work. I will take it to the dealer if I have to but I noticed that the bottom of the instructions on EL-161 of the service manual that a note said "If the same ID code that exists in the memory is input, the entry will be ignored" and was wondering if the memory may already be full and if there was a way to clear the memory from the computer so that I can put new programming in. Thanks in advance for your help. I really appreciate it.

[AZhitman]

That note just means there's no need to program it if it's already working properly, and if you do, it'll be ignored.

I'd say get it to the dealer and hope they'll help out without billing it.

You may have a bad control module in the car.

[maxnix]

So, do the FCC numbers match the FSM? If you remote beeps, it is most likely the wrong remote. No 1995 remotes beeped.

I assure you the FSM procedure works for the proper remote.

[Lady Q]

So, do the FCC numbers match the FSM? If you remote beeps, it is most likely the wrong remote. No 1995 remotes beeped.

I assure you the FSM procedure works for the proper remote.

On the back of my key fob the FCC ID is A69ZJA073 and the DOC/MDC # is 700K922. The number given in the FSM for the multi-remote control unit is LCU07.

Is that the number that is suppose to match my fob, the LCU07 or the LCU07 the number some controller under the hood?

[Lady Q]

That note just means there's no need to program it if it's already working properly, and if you do, it'll be ignored.

I'd say get it to the dealer and hope they'll help out without billing it.

You may have a bad control module in the car.

Ok thanks, it was kind of confusing.

Yeah, I called the dealer they said they would charge me $50 to program it since I'm not back to work yet I was hoping to program it myself. Hopefully, your right and I wont need a new control module.

Is a control module really expensive like it sounds?

[qship96]

could also be a broken transmitter{key fob}. These take a beating every time they are dropped, especially on concrete or asphalt

[Lady Q]

could also be a broken transmitter{key fob}. These take a beating every time they are dropped, especially on concrete or asphalt

I hope its not that. I also hope that my controller in the car is working because even though we went through the steps to program the fobs we didn't get any indication that the car was willing to accept programming like the hazard lights flashing or the interior lights flashing.

Do you think maybe my controller in the vehicle is broken because its not indicating that it would accept programming by flashing the lights or anything?

[LoxMurda]

It was really disappointing. I tried the instructions in the FSM to no avail and I'm sad my key fob doesn't work. I will take it to the dealer if I have to but I noticed that the bottom of the instructions on EL-161 of the service manual that a note said "If the same ID code that exists in the memory is input, the entry will be ignored" and was wondering if the memory may already be full and if there was a way to clear the memory from the computer so that I can put new programming in. Thanks in advance for your help. I really appreciate it.

I'm having the same issue with my 94..the remote beeps...I cant get the car to flash any signals to begin with..i'm tried of having to go open and close the truck with and try agian bull

[maxnix]

FCC ID is what must match the FSM.

[goody90q45]

On the back of my key fob the FCC ID is A69ZJA073 and the DOC/MDC # is 700K922. The number given in the FSM for the multi-remote control unit is LCU07.

Is that the number that is suppose to match my fob, the LCU07 or the LCU07 the number some controller under the hood?

I took a pic of the label on my spare remote control module from a '94Q. The FCC # on the back of your fob has to match the FCC # on this trunk deck-mounted control module. In this case the FCC # is for a 94 and matches my broken fob. Shine a flashlight from the trunk under the rear deck and you might get lucky and be able to see this label without any disassembly and verify that you have the correct fob. It's on the drivers side rear deck near the speaker.

The LCU07 number won't be found anywhere but the FSM. LCU is a designation for the many control units that talk to the BCM to make all the fancy accessories work when you push a button. The power window amplifiers are the LCU's most prone to failure. Read through the "Location of Electrical Units" in the electrical (EL) section of the FSM starting on page EL239 to find the others.

As far as the fob's durability...I had two and the one I used daily quit working one day for no apparent reason. I went through the same thing as you trying to reprogram the fob with no luck.

By the way my 94Q is gone so this remote controller is for sale to a 94Q owner who needs one.

[Lady Q]

I took a pic of the label on my spare remote control module from a '94Q. The FCC # on the back of your fob has to match the FCC # on this trunk deck-mounted control module. In this case the FCC # is for a 94 and matches my broken fob. Shine a flashlight from the trunk under the rear deck and you might get lucky and be able to see this label without any disassembly and verify that you have the correct fob. It's on the drivers side rear deck near the speaker.

The LCU07 number won't be found anywhere but the FSM. LCU is a designation for the many control units that talk to the BCM to make all the fancy accessories work when you push a button. The power window amplifiers are the LCU's most prone to failure. Read through the "Location of Electrical Units" in the electrical (EL) section of the FSM starting on page EL239 to find the others.

As far as the fob's durability...I had two and the one I used daily quit working one day for no apparent reason. I went through the same thing as you trying to reprogram the fob with no luck.

By the way my 94Q is gone so this remote controller is for sale to a 94Q owner who needs one.

Thank you for the very detailed information. My father said to tell you he climbed his big butt into the trunk and with a magnifying glass due to failing eyesight was able to get the FCC ID # off the computer in the trunk. Its labeled just as yours is and the FCC ID # does not match the fobs. The last number on the computer in the trunk is a 2 and the last number on the fob is a 3.

Does the number have to match exactly or could the dealership with their computer have programmed those fobs to work with that computer even though the last digit was different between the key fob FCC ID and the controller FCC ID? My father was wondering this: We understand the FCC IDs are suppose to match in order to program it manually but were wondering if the dealership had other means via computer that didn't require the FCC IDs to match?

Thanks again for all the help you have really been wonderful and we may have need of your own computer yet if this one has failed.

[Papa_D]

Wow, this whole thing has really turned into a serious PITA, lol. I started looking around some more and found this old thread which seems to indicate that the numbers don't have to match and that trying several fobs from a locksmith or dealer seems to do the trick in some cases.

zerothread/274993

I also found this post on an infinity board as well and if the LA Times is writing an article, maybe this problem is very wide spread but not that many people talk about it???

My name is Ralph Vartabedian and I'm trying to contact consumers who have had problems operating their keyless push button start systems on any model cars. I'm a reporter at the Los Angeles Times. My email is [email protected]. My phone number is 213-237-3393. Thanks.

I wouldn't be too concerned about it if this was my vehicle but because it's my daughter, I want her to have the ability to get the doors open in a hurry in case some stalker SOB is nearby so any further help is very appreciated but judging from the amount of people having had the same problem with no luck, I am not holding my breath with regard to getting this working for free or cheaply.

[AZhitman]

I'm trying to contact consumers who have had problems operating their keyless push button start systems on any model cars.

Her car doesn't have push-button start, just remote keyless entry.

I wouldn't be too concerned about it if this was my vehicle but because it's my daughter, I want her to have the ability to get the doors open in a hurry in case some stalker SOB is nearby so any further help is very appreciated but judging from the amount of people having had the same problem with no luck, I am not holding my breath with regard to getting this working for free or cheaply.

Then get on ebay and buy the correct remote key fob (they're cheap) and spend $50 to get it programmed at the dealer.

Money well-spent.

She drives a car that was $50K new. Maintaining it isn't free.

[goody90q45]

......Its labeled just as yours is and the FCC ID # does not match the fobs. The last number on the computer in the trunk is a 2 and the last number on the fob is a 3.

Does the number have to match exactly or could the dealership with their computer have programmed those fobs to work....

I looked at my broken fob with a magnifying glass and it also ends in a 3, not a 2 like the controller. The fob came from the same Q as the controller and used to work, so it appears that they don't have to match exactly.

If you take it to the stealership they're going to charge you to do the same thing you and Pops are doing so keep working at it. It's either a bad fob or a dead controller.

[MinisterofDOOM]

Is a control module really expensive like it sounds?

Junkyard will probably let one go for a few bucks. They're easy to get out and don't fail often, so that's the route I'd take.

[Drake57]

or, Audiovox AA925, $25 new, shipping included:

zer...-92-q

I like mine so far, fairly easy install, if anyone needs details I can provide.

[maxnix]

Big difference between the early G50 and the later with the early CAN bus.

[RustyBucket]

I have the same problem on my '94. I can't progam new codes in and I don't get the lights blinking after doing the whole doors/trunk/key ritual.

Have you tried any of the further tests in the book on the LCU-07 module? (check for voltage, antenna, ground, etc).

The fact that you don't get the lights blinking like everyone says you should means that the problem more than likely is not with the fobs.

Do you have aftermarket tint on your rear window? The antenna is in the window glass and, at least on my car, I have been wondering if my problems might be related to the window tint (accidentally broken during install or something similar).

[Papa_D]

Her car doesn't have push-button start, just remote keyless entry.Then get on ebay and buy the correct remote key fob (they're cheap) and spend $50 to get it programmed at the dealer.Money well-spent. She drives a car that was $50K new. Maintaining it isn't free.

Right you are on both counts and although she will have money as soon as the doctor releases her to go back to work, right now things are tight for her but rest assured, she knows it is going to cost her a small fortune to maintain it properly because I keep reminding her.

She keeps telling me to stop jinxing her car and after I showed her how to clay and wax it today, I stood back admiring the shine and called her out there to listen to a strange noise.

I said "Shhhh, do you hear that sound?" she said " I don't hear anything but the wind and wind chimes." I said "No, I'm sure I hear something and I even know what it is." Intently listening she asked "What is it?" I said "It's the sound of your car slowly deteriorating."

Apparently I am a jackass and not funny at all.

[maxnix]

Ah,sound of the ozone eating the rubber!

Nice paint, though, isn't it?

[Papa_D]

Lol, yeah, time and the Ozone marches on and yes, that paint does look good.

It was funny when I was explaining to her why we were claying and waxing it if it looked good already but after putting her hand in a plastic baggy and running it across the paint before and after claying, she understood. She also now understands that it's the paint that shines and not the wax, lol.

[AZhitman]

You're a good man, Papa D.

Time invested in conveying the lessons of car ownership and maintenance is never wasted - especially on our daughters.

She's gonna make some car guy very, very happy someday. Well-done, sir.

[Papa_D]

You're a good man, Papa D.

Time invested in conveying the lessons of car ownership and maintenance is never wasted - especially on our daughters.

She's gonna make some car guy very, very happy someday. Well-done, sir.

Thank you and I sure hope so because she is a great girl who has one less than desirable marriage behind her but that union yielded a wonderful grandson and hopefully, she will be able to not only appreciate fine automobiles in the future and take a bit of pride in their care but possibly pass that on to her son and maybe even share in that appreciation with a good man as well but as with automobiles and their inevitable fate, only time will tell.

[Lady Q]

I looked at my broken fob with a magnifying glass and it also ends in a 3, not a 2 like the controller. The fob came from the same Q as the controller and used to work, so it appears that they don't have to match exactly.

If you take it to the stealership they're going to charge you to do the same thing you and Pops are doing so keep working at it. It's either a bad fob or a dead controller.

Thank you for your help. I need to get a fan blade and a fuel filter right now so I'm not going to spend any money on the key fob but I really appreciate everyone looking into it for me. All of the information received was very helpful.